Working on a 2005 Montero. Big shoes to fill. Some issues to fix.

Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
So my 2001 Montero, my first car has been wrecked.

Here it is on the last trip to the mountains.
554082_10202350806600829_990849496_n.jpg

...and after it found some black ice during the snow storm. It pulled off the road onto a dirt bank and then rolled/tumbled at least twice. I was the only passenger and I have no injuries.
IMG_20140128_172709_086.jpg
IMG_20140128_172725_465.jpg


I really loved that vehicle. It performed everything I ever asked of it, and it saved my life. Hard to get much better for me. After some online searching and a 2 hour drive I found another.

Now I have a 2005 Montero I got from a used car lot. Test drive went well, interior is immaculate for the age, and all electrical seemed great. Here it is....
IMG_20140208_132229_668.jpg
 

Inyo_man

Explorer
Glad to hear you were not injured.
Well, at least you now have the 3.8L!
Have fun starting from scratch on your new build.
What's first on the list?
 

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Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
Now the issues/maintenance and the fixes as I find them. I will make a build/adventure thread after I am confident with the vehicle.
I have the capability to do almost everything myself, but there is a shop nearby that I would like to evaluate since I have not yet found a good one. I also have a copy of the 2003 FSM. I really just need help with Issue 3 below.

Maintenance since it has 104,000 miles on odometer:
Oil change - have shop do to test them and get free inspection
Rotate/balance tires - if needed. Also to have them check for the bearing noise issue noted below
Timing belt/water pump - might have shop do since it will already be there

Issues:
1) Subwoofer in rear has torn foam. --SOLUTION: New Polk Audio replacement ordered from Amazon.
2) Power antenna gets stuck when retracting --SOLUTION: straightened the joints and clean dirt with shop towel
3) Whine noise from passenger side of vehicle. Loudest at 45-50mph, gets quiet until about 70mph. Louder in 4H than 2H. No grinding, just a noticeable whine. I jacked up and checked each wheel, but cannot determine a specific one to have a bad wheel bearing. Shop may be able to check backlash with gage. Noise may also not be from wheel bearings. I have searched and found some issues with the Freewheel clutch solenoid can cause this issue (Part MR430381). I performed the process listed here http://www.justanswer.com/car/31tt6-2002-mitsubishi-montero-xls-problem.html with a Mityvac kit and it passes all checks until the end. When applying a vacuum to solenoid valve B, applying battery voltage to A does not release vacuum pressure. The vehicle also will not shift from 4H to 2H while moving. While stationary, it flashed the 4H lights until I pressed the brake pedal. It then shifted with a noticeable clunk. Before I start throwing parts, I wanted a second opinion on this. --SOLUTION New rear differential installed. See later posts.
 
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Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
Thanks guys. I do really like this one. As soon as I have the whine noise fixed, I will start taking some more trips to the mountains. Any tips you guys have would be helpful.
 

Jay Ayala

Explorer
Nice truck. I'm sorry to hear about you 2001, but I'm also glad you're okay. The damage looked pretty bad. I'm looking forward to following your progress on your truck. My expertise lies in the Gen I Montero's.


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plh

Explorer
How did you get into the rear panels to replace the sub? What Polk part number did you order?
 

Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
How did you get into the rear panels to replace the sub? What Polk part number did you order?
You will have to disassemble the upper panel and then the lower panel. This link shows the basic idea. http://www.fixya.com/cars/t6193344-size_rear_speaker_subwoofer

Also download the 2003 Field Service Manual from the link in my signature. It has the diagram for removing the speaker as well.

Another forum found me this Polk 8in, which the poster had stated fit into the same space. You do need to drill new mounting holes though.http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-8-Inch-Single-Subwoofer/dp/B0016GX21G/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Mitsubishi|72&Model=Montero|936&Year=2005|2005&carId=002&n=1077068&newCar=1&s=car&vehicleType=automotive

Forum link to Sub replacement. http://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mitsubishi-montero-montero-sport-14/replace-subwoofer-2003-montero-infinity-sound-42072/
 

Monstero

Adventurer
Your 4 wheel solenoid on the front axle that is air actuator (that u tested) just need to be lubed up...pull the rubber grommet off and then use some pliers and grease and manually move it in and out while pulling with the pliers to move it....
 

Monstero

Adventurer
It should have some resistance to pull but should also move freely in and out once lubed....my experience is that if that rubber grommet that covers the whole assembly is cracked then it need to be replaced and will cause resistance. I check mine while under there every time u change my oil
 

Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
Your 4 wheel solenoid on the front axle that is air actuator (that u tested) just need to be lubed up...pull the rubber grommet off and then use some pliers and grease and manually move it in and out while pulling with the pliers to move it....
What type of grease did you use on the solenoid?

Also, my test of the freewheel clutch solenoid (the one under the air filter housing) showed that creating a vacuum on solenoid B and adding voltage to solenoid A did NOT release the vacuum. This should indicate that there is a problem with solenoid A, but the tests with vacuum on solenoid A had no issue.
 

Monstero

Adventurer
I use Green Grease for everything from bearing to u joints on all my mechanical stuff...Most resilient grease on the market imo...

I would crawl underneath when u go to lubricate it and take the vacuum lines off the actual clutch...then while 4wd is disengaged and vehicle running put vacuum lines up to there original attachment points and see if they move the clutch in or out...then engage 4wd while vehicle is still running and do the same thing again. ..This will give u an idea if solenoid is working....If it isn't then back track to each solenoid and trouble shoot from there.

Start at the source and work backwards. Seized actuator rod may be the only issue and grease will solve that.
 

Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
I use Green Grease for everything from bearing to u joints on all my mechanical stuff...Most resilient grease on the market imo...

I would crawl underneath when u go to lubricate it and take the vacuum lines off the actual clutch...then while 4wd is disengaged and vehicle running put vacuum lines up to there original attachment points and see if they move the clutch in or out...then engage 4wd while vehicle is still running and do the same thing again. ..This will give u an idea if solenoid is working....If it isn't then back track to each solenoid and trouble shoot from there.

Start at the source and work backwards. Seized actuator rod may be the only issue and grease will solve that.
Added some grease to the rod, it still had some left on it and would move with my hand. In 2H the vacuum line closest to the diff has a strong pull and moves the rod into the freewheel clutch. In 4H the vacuum line on the other side has a weaker vacuum, but the rod does not move at all when it is connected.


Also an update on the whine noise since I drove it some as well to try to exercise it. In 2H, the noise is only active while throttle is applied. In 4H the noise is constant regardless of throttle.
 

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Michael Brown

You followed me, so now we're both lost
IMG_20140220_192621_222.jpg

Installed a new subwoofer in the rear. This one fits perfectly in the space and has a rubber isolator ring around the bolt holes to prevent vibration.
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-8-Inch-Single-Subwoofer/dp/B0016GX21G/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Mitsubishi|72&Model=Montero|936&Year=2005|2005&carId=002&n=1077068&newCar=1&s=car&vehicleType=automotive
Just buy some 1" #10/12 self tapping screws. I forgot to take more pictures as I was working, but I can post detailed instructions if anyone needs them.

Now the sounds system sounds as great as it originally did. :D
 

cnutco

Adventurer
I'm sure you like the new sub. My sub sub was trashed in mine too. I replaced it with a Punch version and a Kenwood head unit. No add power/amp yet though. Didn't really see a need.

Looks like a great ride! Love my '03.


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