Trail Talk
Well-known member
We last visited Wood Buffalo National Park in 2018 with our RTT set-up and were looking forward to a return visit in the OEV Summit. The scarred landscape which appeared as we approached the 60th parallel was a reminder of devastating wildfires in 2019, although it was truly odd to see new homes plunked down in the middle of burned patches. We checked-in at the NT border station to receive our travel pass and orders to head straight for the park. It was a long day and we were tempted to stop and boon-dock for a night but heat and mosquitos encouraged us on.
Lovely Williamson Lake Provincial Park
Return visit to Twin Lakes Recreation Area
Last stop at High Level before the NT border, and first of the "Red Chairs"
Bison along the road to Fort Smith
Within an hour of arriving at the Pine Lake campground we were greeted by a pair of armed “enforcement” wardens. While they weren’t able to answer our questions on trail conditions, they promised to notify someone who would get in touch. Sure enough, next day another pair dropped by from the Visitor’s Center. They didn’t bring maps or trail literature but filled us in on what reports they had received from others. They dropped off a trail guide the following day; each trip from town being and hour and a half return drive.
Pine Lake unserviced campground
Bison or buffalo? You soon learn up here that "buffalo" was an early explorer's mistaken belief these creatures were related to Asian water buffalo.
Although you wouldn't know it from their extremely optimistic Facebook page, the park was facing many challenges this summer and it seemed only a half-hearted attempt was made at welcoming visitors. They maintained the Visitor's Center in Fort Smith but non-NT travellers were forbidden to stop there. The park hadn't registered any local guides or outfitters for the season, leaving visitors on their own to source boat access into the park's prime wildlife region on the Peace Delta. It might be superfluous to note that most of the park, including the campground, is in a cellular dead zone which hampered planning, although we were surprised to receive a few days dump of mail while on a hilltop during one day hike.
Red chairs at Pine Lake
Red chairs at Loon Lake
Lane Lake access trail under water
The park was experiencing a heat wave with temps up to 34C! This, combined with unusually high water levels and blowdowns along the unmaintained trails made our primary objective of Sweetgrass Station unreachable. The site is in active wolf/bison country and features the remains of an old bison meat processing plant from the 1950s, so we were disappointed, but it only meant we will return again when conditions are better.
Benchmark Trail
Lovely Williamson Lake Provincial Park
Return visit to Twin Lakes Recreation Area
Last stop at High Level before the NT border, and first of the "Red Chairs"
Bison along the road to Fort Smith
Within an hour of arriving at the Pine Lake campground we were greeted by a pair of armed “enforcement” wardens. While they weren’t able to answer our questions on trail conditions, they promised to notify someone who would get in touch. Sure enough, next day another pair dropped by from the Visitor’s Center. They didn’t bring maps or trail literature but filled us in on what reports they had received from others. They dropped off a trail guide the following day; each trip from town being and hour and a half return drive.
Pine Lake unserviced campground
Bison or buffalo? You soon learn up here that "buffalo" was an early explorer's mistaken belief these creatures were related to Asian water buffalo.
Although you wouldn't know it from their extremely optimistic Facebook page, the park was facing many challenges this summer and it seemed only a half-hearted attempt was made at welcoming visitors. They maintained the Visitor's Center in Fort Smith but non-NT travellers were forbidden to stop there. The park hadn't registered any local guides or outfitters for the season, leaving visitors on their own to source boat access into the park's prime wildlife region on the Peace Delta. It might be superfluous to note that most of the park, including the campground, is in a cellular dead zone which hampered planning, although we were surprised to receive a few days dump of mail while on a hilltop during one day hike.
Red chairs at Pine Lake
Red chairs at Loon Lake
Lane Lake access trail under water
The park was experiencing a heat wave with temps up to 34C! This, combined with unusually high water levels and blowdowns along the unmaintained trails made our primary objective of Sweetgrass Station unreachable. The site is in active wolf/bison country and features the remains of an old bison meat processing plant from the 1950s, so we were disappointed, but it only meant we will return again when conditions are better.
Benchmark Trail
