Wiring, terminal and fuse best practices?

[Pskhaat]

I am re-examining my current setup in my LC80. Right now I have a low-guage +12VDC wire `bus' that I run from my deep-cycle in circumference around the vehicle's interior and exterior into which I tap (not crimp) at appropriate places and ground locally for power. That's worked for about 10 years, but it is time to re-do some things and re-place my accesories, et al as I'm considering an on-board computer.

What are the electrical best practices I should undertake to keep things clean? I'd prefer to get this from y'all instead of street cars for the obvious reasons. For instance:

• Shall I lead accessories from a common junction box?
• Shall I cease the practice of local ground?
• Shall I make practice of the dual-barrier terminal strips?
• What are the best power disconnects (not cigarette lighter plugs please)?
• Is it preferrable to have a more formal relay socket bank vs. individual relays/sockets wired?

Any and all advise and pictures appreciated

 

[goodtimes]

I despise local grounds. They make troubleshooting a real pain when you start getting grounds all over the place.

On my recent dual battery / secondary electrical system on the jeep, I seperated every one of the aftermarket circuits from the OEM circuits. The only connections between OEM and aftermarket are the battery ground (2ga cable, IIRC), and the isolater.

The secondary battery feeds 2 fuse blocks (6 circuit units with a ground bus built in). Every aux circuit is fed from, and grounds through, one of those 2 fuse blocks, and each fuse block is grounded back to the battery. Of course, I have a circuit breaker to provide protection for each fuse block.

Blocks of relays are nice and tidy....but you may end up running more wire than really needed.....but they look good, and keep things all in one place.

Imagine troubleshooting a vehicle that did not have a centralized relay center or fuse block...where every fuse and relay was mounted where ever they fit....insanity!

 

[ntsqd]

For best practices I think the boat wiring books recently mentioned (possibly in Articulate's showers thread) would be the best resource. Everyone has their own method of doing things, but the AYBC has put effort into a set of standards that work and I would suggest equally apply to Overlander's as well. At the very least it is a good jumping-off point.

Is your aversion to 'power points' because of them slipping out and other general poor behavior due to most of the being cheaply produced? There are options that negate that entirely and maintain interchangeability with other users or vehicles. They were mentioned in Articulate's thread on showers.

Otherwise I'd suggest looking through any of the electronics supplier's catalogs. I'm fond of Allied, but I'm sure most carry what you might be looking for.
The type of connector I'm about to use on a vehicular project with wiring going into a project box is one of these:

The one that I'm looking to use is p/n 512-9087 for the version with a seal (512-1171 w/ no seal).

While I whole heartedly agree with GT's thoughts on random relay locations, I recognize that the primary reason for a relay is to reduce the length of high current wiring or to allow something incapable of switching high currents to have control over a high current device. I think it best to plan out where those high current demands are or will be, and place the relay or relays in the most advantageous position. If you can keep most of them in one location, that is ideal. If a couple need to be elsewhere then don't sacrifice the circuit for the sake of keeping all of the relays in one place.
An example is Patch's reverse light. I have a high current wire run to nearly the rear of the vehicle with a couple isolated studs along it's length (70's to early 80's GM trucks have great isolated studs on the firewall). At the last isolated stud there is a relay that is run by the stock reverse lights that drives a clear fog light. Were the relay up under the hood it would require significantly more wire to effect the same result.

 

[Desertdude]

I tapped off my starting battery and ran a number 4 (stranded) wire back to a blue sea 8 fuse block to run all my accessories inside and in the back section of the 80 series. The fuse block sits in that tiny pocket on the passenger side rear wall in the third row seat area.

The 2M radio is directly connected to the starting battery for the most direct power source. Compressor, water pump, Engel and assorted outlets run from this fuse block. Two years running no issues.

My second battery handles the 1800 watt inverter for water heating while driving and it is my emergency starting battery should I need it. I use the Hellroaring unit.

I would really like to do away with all the cig outlets - what a dated technology...

 

[goodtimes]

I would really like to do away with all the cig outlets - what a dated technology...

Yes, but with so darn many accessories that use them....at this point they are just about a nessessary evil.

Perfect example....my fridge. Gotta have the cig lighter because I move it between my TJ and Marisa's Patriot....but yea...I would like something different.

 

[Desertdude]

true enough some interesting options in Marks thread

JL audio has very slick/clean connections and wire.

 

[Mlachica]

I don't do localized grounds either. I run a perfect switch isolator with dual lifeline deep cycle 100ah batteries. I have 3 fuse blocks fed from the aux battery with a resetable circuit breaker at the source. One block in the engine bay, one under the passenger seat, and one in a cubby hole in the very back. They're fed using marine grade 2/C 8awg, so the ground goes straight to the neg. terminal of the aux. battery. I try to group my relays as much as possible but I'm not going to go out of my way to do so. Label them too.

I still use cigarette plugs, at least in the front and back. They're still commonly used so I'm going to have them. All my wiring is crimped and most are using insulated ring terminals. Some of the connections are non-insulated with glue impregnated heat shrink.

 

[articulate]

I would really like to do away with all the cig outlets - what a dated technology...

Seriously, this puzzles me. It's dated technology that works. Like good ol' wall outlets.
:beer:

However, the ol' chicken crossing the road has nothing on this quandary: which came first, the 12v cigarette lighter or the accessories that plug into it? Wink, wink.

 

[Desertdude]

That cig connection should have died with the Metal dashboards.
:violent-smiley-031:

 

[Pskhaat]

• What are the best power disconnects (not cigarette lighter plugs please)?

So what about semi-permanent installations like my Ham radio, or electric air compressor that I'd still like a disconnect. I'm not about to use a lighter plug on these?

 

[goodtimes]

So what about semi-permanent installations like my Ham radio, or electric air compressor that I'd still like a disconnect. I'm not about to use a lighter plug on these?

If you are not looking for a plug and socket setup.....I am happy with these 2 wire pig tails. when you pull the plug apart, one post is exposed...make sure that on the vehicle side of the plug, the exposed post is the ground.

Hmmmm....it seems I can't attach images right now....something wrong with the site....I guess Jeremy has to work late now...:hehe:

I'll post pics later I guess....

 

[ThomD]

So what about semi-permanent installations like my Ham radio, or electric air compressor that I'd still like a disconnect. I'm not about to use a lighter plug on these?

I like SAE connectors. Stands up to vibration well, easy to connect as needed. I use when on my electric jacket on my motorbike.

 

[whatcharterboat]

Hi

Hi First post in this forum and I know that I'm in Oz but I think a supplier or manufacturer here or in NZ would have no issue with sending small items over such as connectors. There is a big range of cig plugs here specifically for RV/marine use. So you can get different mounting cases, waterproof flaps, right angle blocks, dual blocks ,etc. If you can't get the ideal unit there......

Most of this selection in cig sockets has only been on the market here for about 3 years. Prior to that the only cig sockets were metal cased (hence corroded easily) and not suitable for mounting through anything thicker than about 1/8".

I personally don't like using them for anything over about 8 or 10 amps though no one has ever been able to give me an accurate rating for a standard cig socket. Anything over this current draw I'd go for an anderson plug or military style connector if the cost justified the need. Anderson plugs start at 10A and go into the 100's of amps. The male and female plugs are the same unit. Ideal for a trailer battery bank charging from a vehicle or a remote wind generator/solar array connection to a larger expedition truck. Even good for a large remote winch.

Try searching some OZ auto/RV/marine electrical sites to give you an idea what I'm trying to describe. I always thought the Anderson plug was from the US. Isn't it? Just that I didn't see any one mention it. My 50cents.

 

[Desertdude]

other ideas:

Anderson plug

Anderson plug in AU

12v shop in AU

At least some higher end cig stuff in that link for ref.

 

[eugene]

Anything that I want an easily removable plug I use the anderson powerpole which is somewhat of a ham radio standard. Anything else I'm using metripack to match the rest of the truck.