Wiring Fridge Using ARB Universal Socket Mount

[mobydick 11]

when you say you drilled a hole are you talking about the hole that the ARB socket covers up or are you talking about making a hole in the ARB socket cover?

Right in the bottom of the socket cover so the wire runs straight into the spade . Mine were installed inside protective boxes so the wiring is exposed anyway . As far as wiring through a fuse block ,I can only repeat ARB tells you not to .Wire direct to the battery they say. I know your equipment is different so I am not the right person for advise .

 

[gatorgrizz27]

Right in the bottom of the socket cover so the wire runs straight into the spade . Mine were installed inside protective boxes so the wiring is exposed anyway . As far as wiring through a fuse block ,I can only repeat ARB tells you not to .Wire direct to the battery they say. I know your equipment is different so I am not the right person for advise .

I believe this is likely more a result of dealing with stock vehicle installations rather than dedicated auxiliary fuse blocks. You obviously want it to have power with the ignition off and OEM wiring is undersized for minimizing fridge voltage drops.

I don’t want any more ring terminals on my battery than absolutely necessary, same for additional wire running through the engine compartment and through the firewall.

 

[mobydick 11]

I believe this is likely more a result of dealing with stock vehicle installations rather than dedicated auxiliary fuse blocks. You obviously want it to have power with the ignition off and OEM wiring is undersized for minimizing fridge voltage drops.

I don’t want any more ring terminals on my battery than absolutely necessary, same for additional wire running through the engine compartment and through the firewall.

Ah yes . Mine are hooked up to auxiliary battery systems with less then 3 feet of wire to the fridge plug . One of them is in a gear trailer .Maybe because I am referring to an engineered system ,they want to eliminate any chance of problems that may already exist . and assure voltage supply. I agree I would not wire direct to my truck battery.Actually nothing is hooked to the vehicle battery. Sorry for going on ,but this started as a very simple question . And with the voltage drop most people realize something bigger is going on. It's beyond me !!

 

[javajoe79]

I would also go with an anderson plug.

 

[Alloy]

2 or 3 seem most plausible. Is one preferable to the other?

4) do you have a picture of this? i'm not sure how understanding how this would work

# 2 If the wire can be connected to the terminals without bending the wire.

#3 If the wire needs a sharp bend to connect to the terminals.

#4 A ring terminal is bolted to the terminal. I've done it with 10ga but there's no reason it cannot be done with 8ga. The holes in the terminals needs to be opend up for a #4 machine screw. **If you haven't drilled/opened (Die grinder/Dremel) up thin metal terminals before there a good chance you'll ruin the whole socket. The machine screws need to be cut down the perfect length and nyloc nuts will be needed. I would try 1,2 or 3 before trying #4 but it maybe worth if the disconnect with heavey wire might slip off the terminal.

What is the amperage is the Dometic?

 

[NatersXJ6]

You only mention that your voltage drop is excessive, yet never say what it is or where and how you measured. This group can help fix that if you share details.

 

[javajoe79]

All this modifying of the ARB plug to still end up with a possibly iffy connection and potential to ruin the terminals trying really points to just using the right product in the first place. We're talking $15 for both anderson plugs with terminals.

 

[rayra]

OP seems to be creating new problems rather than solving the first ones.
How about quantifying that 'voltage drop' statement and some description of where and how you ran your 10ga wire and what the vehicle is or length of run?

Then I'd suggest testing just the wire run for this 'drop'.

Then I'd suggest the use of some naked spade connectors and some heat shrink and then crimping AND soldering your connectors. Then measure your voltage at both the source and at the freshly soldered spade.

I really don't expect there to be any meaningful drop in a vehicle on such a run.

As to that ARB housing, if I judge it correctly there ought to be about 1" clear between the end of those socket spade connectors and the far wall of the enclosure. Should be enough room. Or use Flag style connectors, doesn't matter.
If you find it difficult to get the connectors on in that space, manipulate the connectors with some needle-nose pliers. Or better yet just loosen the ring on the socket and loosen and move it out of the enclosure while you get the wires seated. Then put humpty dumpty back together again.

But again, I have to ask 'what vehicle' - and why the choice of that enclosure? IF it's inside the back of a SUV or shell, why use that weather enclosure at all?


/my default answer is 'Anderson all the things'