Wiring and outlet to a power inverter.

[PacificNorthWestJeeper]

I picked up a power inverter that has 2 outlets on one end for plugs.
I want to mount the inverter in a trailer tongue box and then mount an outlet on the outside of the tongue box.
My question is, can I simply make a plug on the end of a wire and plug it into the inverter, then take the other end of the wire and wire it up to my outlet on the outside of the tongue box?

 

[Alloy]

Yes, a plug works but if the inverter doesn't have a GFI receptacle use one in the outlet.

The inverter has breakers/fuses??

15 Amps needs 14ga-3 wire SOOW cord.

Don't used solid Romex wire or BX cable.

Wire nuts do not work on stranded wire so you may need find NEC rated (Sta- Con) crimp connectors.

https://www.electronicfasteners.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/linecard_tb_stakon.pdf

DON'T use 12VDC crimp connectors as they have a split/seam.

I like to use touch of silicone grease on the screws in the plugs and wire to prevent corrosion and be able to removed after being out in the weather. The grease changes the resistance so don't gorilla arm the screws.

Consider using industrial (red) grade receptacles.

and . . . . . nice trailer build!

 

[Alloy]

Orange might be a better description

 

[tatanka48]

for foul weather consideration why not simply make up a short extension cord that can be accessed by opening the box lid and hanging the cord in a protected/weatherproof notch at the top of the back side high up under the lid

this way electrical exposure would be managed to actual times when the receptacle is needed/in use

T

 

[luthj]

For the top of a box in the elements, I would think a marine receptacle would be called for? One that has a water tight cap and a small drain hole.

Personally I would locate the receptacle on the side or bottom, and choose one with a weather tight cap. A unit mounted so that gravity can pull water in would cause issues. Corrosion would be bad mojo.

 

[PacificNorthWestJeeper]

Sorry for getting back so late, been gone for work...
I think I will hit Lowes and see about the orange outlet then.
Thank you for all the info above I really appreciate it...
Have a Merry Xmas all......

 

[dwh]

That's a 20a hospital grade receptacle. They come in many colors.


https://www.graybar.com/store/en/gb...geView=grid&pageSize=50&pageNumber=1&facetId=


I wouldn't bother unless you think you'll have ICU equipment running next to an oxygen tent...or if you have something that has a 20a plug...

 

[dwh]

And both my 1972 Superior 2200 RV with 140k miles and my 1976 Ford camper van with 160k miles were wired with romex for the 120v AC stuff (solid copper, not stranded).

No issues. Zero, zip, ziltch, nada.

Yes, I know all about work hardening and breakage due to vibration. But as a former electrician with 24,000 hours in the trade, who has owned a few RVs over the last 40 years that came wired with romex...I've never actually seen any broken romex in an RV...

 

[dwh]

Corrosion happens, but slowly.

I've done miles and miles of high-voltage outdoor lighting in Beverly Hills, where they don't, or at least didn't at the time, allow plastic conduit or boxes. And they don't give a crap about water rationing and they fertilize constantly.

I've seen Bell boxes…

…completely rotted away in a few years. I've seen galvanized underground pipe completely rotted away in a few years.

But the electrical kept working.


A bigger issue is water getting in between the screws on the hot side of the receptacle and the grounded metal box...

(Yes, I know that's a plastic box, but you get the idea.)

I've actually seen that happen while I was standing right there...

I was at an old house with a sunroom attached, to replace an old ceiling fan with a new one. It was raining. There was a leak where the sunroom attached to the house. I was standing right next to a switch on the wall talking to the owner, when we both heard the 60hz hum of a short, then a pop. When we looked, flames were coming out of the wall. I sent my apprentice to get a fire extinguisher from the truck and I started busting out the wall around the electrical box with my hammer. The 2x4 stud next to the box was on fire.

I put the fire out and disconnected the circuit. All the while the owner was watching.

I told him to get the leak fixed, then I'd come back and fix the electrical. Then he could get the wall fixed.


Apprentices mostly thought I was just a picky bastard...but there were actual reasons for doing things my way. For instance one thing I do on every receptacle and switch I touch, is...

 

[dwh]

(In that picture, dot in middle is a piezo sounder for its built in surge suppression. Amazing the stuff gets crammed into a Decora footprint nowdays...)

Piezo sounder...okay, if you say so. I just took a quick glance at the pic on my phone after waking up in the middle of the night and not getting back to sleep.

But as I said, "you get the idea". Well, not *you*, but the OP. The main point was that the color isn't necessarily going to tell you if some plug on the shelf at Lowe's is "industrial grade".

That plug wont fit the receptacle pictured either. Its a NEMA 6-20.

So some pic I grabbed off the net is flipped left-right. Again, middle of the night. Again, the OP gets the idea.


Now, back to my regularly scheduled coffee...

 

[J!m]

I’m a hack electrician; but my dad was licensed and I learned a bunch from him, and others since.

I do think an isolated ground (“hospital outlet”) is a good idea to keep the A/C noise off the D/C ground, BUT I absolutely would not attach a 20A outlet unless the inverter can provide 20A without catching fire. I suspect it’s only putting out 10A max at 120V and the outlet should reflect that.

The wet location rated ones are good (never have seen an isolated ground version of one). Keeping the inverted inside a grounded metal box (Faraday cage) is a good idea too, to limit RF interference on your music and comm radio(s).

Do the math for your wire gage and then oversize it. Get a good quality, tight fitting plug to attach (plug into) the inverter too. Actually, if you’re not going to use the other outlet at the converter, maybe consider a blanking plate and hard wire it at that end.

But remember, I have no idea what I’m talking about because I’m not licensed.

 

[Alloy]

Sorry for getting back so late, been gone for work...
I think I will hit Lowes and see about the orange outlet then.
Thank you for all the info above I really appreciate it...
Have a Merry Xmas all......

Sorry for not being more detail. Reffering to red/orange was to avoid using household receptacles that when used as a the only receptacle do not stand up.

Using a GFI prevents what is called hot skin. This is when AC leaks to the frame/skin of a vehicle. When a person touches the trailer they complete the circuit.

 

[PacificNorthWestJeeper]