Winter Escape - Hot Springs & the Alvord Playa

turbodb

Well-known member
Winter Escape - Hot Springs & the Alvord Playa (Part 1)

"Let's go somewhere." said @mrs.turbodb after I'd been home just a short time from my previous trip. That was of course fine with me, and so we set about finding a place to go. It was going to be cold and rainy on the Washington coast, so we set out looking for somewhere warm.

Now, we only had a few days, so that limited our options - essentially to adjacent states. Oregon was our best bet for warmth, so we started looking for options there - and it didn't take long to fill out the itinerary. Ever since visiting the Owyhee Canyonlands on one of our first adventures, and the Malheur area not long after, we both knew there were places in southeast Oregon that would be great to go see - in @mrs.turbodb's case, some hot springs; in mine, the Alvord Playa at the base of Steens Mountain.

To say we got an early start would be an understatement. We pulled out of the alley and got on I-5 south at just after 5:00am - a long day ahead. Even so, we weren't sure if we'd arrive before dark, the days getting shorter all the time.


Our first stop was several hours south. I'd found a great deal on a set of sliders for our new family adventure vehicle - a new-to-us 1997 4Runner - and with Northwest Trail Innovations only an hour or so out of our way, this was a great time to pick it up. We arrived around 8:30am, and Corey was quick to get us taken care of, as we loaded the sliders from his shop into the back of the Tacoma.


Turns out he's got a second business as well building out remote-controlled Toyota trucks and the jigs made to use them, and he had several on display. Mini AdventureTacos! And AdventureCruisers! Very cool.


From there, it was a lot of driving. We stopped a few times on our way to Snively Hot Springs for food and fuel, but that was about it. Oh, and as we stopped for lunch, I remembered I hadn't cleaned my air filter from the recent trip to Arizona and Utah. So I took the opportunity to do so. Sorry Wendy's.


When we arrived at Snively Hot Springs, it was dark. So, we headed across the creek - it was all BLM land around the springs - and found ourselves a nice perch on top of one of the nearby hills - our hope that the water crossing, gate, and darkness would deter any other campers from our spot.

Then, it was time to eat dinner - cheeseburgers and chips and do a little startgazing before hitting the sack, both of us tired from a long day...but looking forward to the next!

- - - - -​

October 27, 2018.

As you might imagine, it was a bit breezy at the top of the hill - the tundra offering what amounted to zero cover - but it wasn't bad and we both slept reasonably well. Knowing that we could have a gorgeous sunrise, I was up early - and that meant that @mrs.turbodb was too - trying to get just the right shot.

As it does, it started out as a deep orange along the horizon, the rest of the sky still mostly dark.


Then, as more light creeps into the sky, clouds further from the horizon pick up some color.


Eventually, the sky beings to brighten - the morning sun now coaxing the deep blue out for the day, the clouds struggling to maintain their pink hue before turning white.




That's the point at which I went back to bed, which had been kept warm while I'd been out of the tent - now beckoning me back inside. We lazied around for a couple more hours - no huge rush to our day (though maybe there should have been). It was 8:15am when we finally both pulled ourselves out of the tent, the sun now warming the area around us, though there were now clouds blowing in.


Even @mrs.turbodb got into the action. I think it was really for my benefit though. ?


Breakfast eaten and the tent put away, we retraced our path down the hill towards Snively Hot Springs, the view we'd wondered about the night before, unfolding before us - typical southeast Oregon - golden hills, a bit of vegetation by the river flowing along their base.


At the base, we discovered the Owyhee Siphon. A tunnel from the Owyhee River to a series of canals, this was part of the larger Owyhee Project that started in 1928 and was completed in 1935. Designed to supply water to eight towns in Oregon and Idaho via gravity flow and siphons from Owyhee Reservoir, the project was not totally successful, and today several pumping plants help move water across the project area.




Also part of the same project, the Snively Siphon was less than a quarter mile away and consisted of entirely different construction - a huge pipeline that hugged the contours of the hillsides, literally sucking water up and down mountains without the need for pumps as it makes its way to lower elevations. This siphon must move a massive amount of water - the truck could have easily driven inside the pipe.


Then, only the river crossing we'd done in the dark the night before stood in our way to Snively Hot Springs, and as it was the night before, the crossing was easy - the water less than a foot deep. Still, daylight made @mrs.turbodb more comfortable as we made our way across and the last quarter mile or so to the springs.




Don't miss the rest of the story, and all the remaining photos - it'd all be included here if I could include more than 20 photos. But until then...





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turbodb

Well-known member
Winter Escape - Hot Springs & the Alvord Playa (Part 2)

Our night on the Alvord Playa was uneventful - the wind picked up a bit around midnight, easily remedied by closing the door on the windward side of the tent. And, one of the nice things about winter - at least when you're camping - is that sunrise is a bit later. For us, it was nearly 7:00am before the light started on the horizon.


Clouds having blown in a bit overnight, we got quite the display as the long rays of morning sun played over their undulations, a rainbow of colors ranging from yellow to purple reflecting down onto the playa.


The Alvord Playa is one of the largest playa lakes in Oregon. Formed as rainwater fills a a large shallow depression in the landscape, a salty crust is left behind as the water evaporates. In the rain shadow of Steens Mountain - which rises over a mile above the playa floor - the Alvord Playa currently receives only 5-7 inches of rain a year. But it wasn't always so - 3.5 million to 15,000 years ago, the lake covered all of what is now the Alvord Desert. At the end of the ice age (13,000-14,000 years ago) the lake flooded, sending nearly 40,000 cubic yards of water spilling into the Owyhee River every second, dramatically and permanently lowering the water level.

With lower water levels, the salty crust that forms as water evaporates each year consists mainly of borax. This attracted miners in the late 1800's - Charles L. Taylor and John M. Fulton - who purchased 3,000 acres of land around the lake and started the Twenty Mule Team Borax Company.

Today the land is public (BLM) land, for which we were grateful - able to enjoy it in all it's glory.




As the sun rose higher in the sky, Steens Mountain was illuminated behind the playa, an amazing backdrop for our simple cereal breakfast.




Having not had a chance to explore the evening before, we decided there was no better time to walk around a bit - the vast playa beckoning us onward. The problem, of course, is that one spot in the playa seemed just like another - the cracked surface so flat as to be disconcerting.




It wasn't long before we realized that the only real way to explore was going to be in the truck - without it, there was no way we could cover the necessary ground. So we cleaned, packed, and loaded up - quickly accelerating to 60mph as we sped across the lake bed. In fact, we weren't really speeding - the women's world land speed record was set here in 1976 by Kitty O'Neil - at 512mph!

As we zoomed around, @mrs.turbodb spotted something in the distance. We turned toward it and realized - it was a plane. A plane that had apparently had a bit of a rough landing.


As we got closer, it was clear that the plane hadn't been there very long - a week or less, I'd say. Two of the wheels had been torn off as it skidded across the playa, it's propeller mangled from digging into the surface as it came to a stop. Luckily, it looked like the occupant(s) had probably escaped relatively unharmed - the cockpit in good shape.

Update: It hadn't been there long, according to the NTSB.


Having explored only a small sliver of the playa, we knew this was a place we'd need to return in the future when we had more time. A couple days on the playa, and some time driving to the top of Steens Mountain (the highest road in Oregon) would make for an awesome adventure.

But as it was, we had to get going - we were headed home today and had a good 10 hours or so if we drove straight through.

Which of course, we weren't planning on. In fact, our next stop was only ~15 miles away and to the east - Mickey Hot Springs. These springs are way too hot to take a dip in, the temperatures averaging 170ºF, but they were super cool to explore nonetheless. Spread out over an area the size of a couple football fields, they consisted of bubbling mud caldrons, boiling pools, and of course larger springs.


I found the larger springs the most interesting, as several of them were super-deep - more than 30 feet we'd later find out - with brightly colored algae growing in the hot water. It's times like this when I wish I had a polarizing filter for the camera.


As we circled around the springs on our way back to the truck - the sound of pressurized steam vents and bubbling pools around us - we counted ourselves lucky. This was a place we'd not planned to visit, and yet it'd been quite the discovery. It's definitely a place that we'll want to visit again, as it's clearly an active site - some of the pools starting to fill in; others already dry - and so will likely be a whole new experience on each visit.

- - - - -

Don't miss the rest of the story, and all the remaining photos - it'd all be included here if it fit. But until more than 20 photos are allowed...





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Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
If you'd taken a bit of a drive you could have dipped in Willow Creek hot springs to the Southeast or Bog Hot Springs to the SW.

Bog is actually big enough to swim in.

Doesn't Alvord hot springs have a dipping pool?
 

turbodb

Well-known member
If you'd taken a bit of a drive you could have dipped in Willow Creek hot springs to the Southeast or Bog Hot Springs to the SW.

Bog is actually big enough to swim in.

Doesn't Alvord hot springs have a dipping pool?
Haven't heard of Bog, but have since been to Willow Creek.

Alvord Hot Springs does also have a pool you can soak in, and we have! :)
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Haven't heard of Bog, but have since been to Willow Creek.

Bog Hot Springs (or sometimes Bog Warm Springs) is just over the state line in Nevada. It's just off of NV 140 about 9 miles West of Denio Junction, turn North onto the dirt road for about 4 miles, the spring is on the left (West.) It's actually a small creek with a dam on it (or it was in 2009 when I was there last) so, as I said, you can swim in it. Because of it's size it's not as hot as most other hot springs, I think that's why it's sometimes called "Bog Warm Springs."
 

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