Dave Bennett
Adventurist
Looking for some ideas and input on winch solenoid relocation, I plan to move mine from the ARB and mount it under the hood somewhere and use the Warn remote (winch is a Warn M8000) for a cleaner/easier to use setup.
Winch solenoid relocation - let's see yours
- Thread starter Dave Bennett
- Start date
fourfa
Observer
Funny you should post this now, I'm doing mine right now. Warn 8000, 2005 Tacoma. I'm rearranging the cables that come with it, short ones from the battery to the box (just behind the fuse box), then long ones out to the motor. Ordered two additional 0AWG cables for the long cable run.
Main thing I haven't yet figured out is the bracket to mount the box. There happen to be a nice pair of threaded holes on the side of the empty space I want to use.
Main thing I haven't yet figured out is the bracket to mount the box. There happen to be a nice pair of threaded holes on the side of the empty space I want to use.
spressomon
Expedition Leader
I fabbed a simple "L" shaped bracket to attach the Warn solenoid from my 9.5XP to the upper fender of my '99LC. It has worked out just perfect.
I added Slee's remote control/in cab circuitry along with a OEM Toyota antenna switch (momentary 2-way switch) for in-cab operation of the winch.
Not your engine bay certainly but it may give you an idea
I added Slee's remote control/in cab circuitry along with a OEM Toyota antenna switch (momentary 2-way switch) for in-cab operation of the winch.
Not your engine bay certainly but it may give you an idea
Attachments
07 Elephant
Adventurer
On my runner.
TangoBlue
American Adventurist
Must... restrain... self.... from... picture... whoring... my... 2001 truck...
Seriously Dave, you will be very happy you did it.
While you're pulling wire have you considered placing remote operating capability inside the cab? I'm glad I did it - I can operate via the remote outside the cab or by dash controls inside the cab.
Seriously Dave, you will be very happy you did it.
While you're pulling wire have you considered placing remote operating capability inside the cab? I'm glad I did it - I can operate via the remote outside the cab or by dash controls inside the cab.
Dave Bennett
Adventurist
Please post pics and a review when you're done! :bigbossHL:
Dave Bennett
Adventurist
I'll keep the OEM control as a backup and use one of these as my "in cab and afoot" controller:
http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=538
Dave Bennett
Adventurist
Thanks for sharing dude, looks great :Wow1:
fourfa
Observer
I'll grab some photos but I just did a review of the bumper and winch install on another forum so I'll paste in the relevant part here:
I relocated my solenoid box into the driver's side engine bay, right behind the fuse box. It comes with three short 2ga cables (yellow, green, blue) and two 72" 2ga cables for mains power. I ordered a pair of 72" 0ga cables (for ground and yellow, or "A") and relocated the two long 2ga cables (green and blue, or F1 and F2). The short cables were just a bit too short to reach from the battery to the solenoid box, so I added a 2ga 35" cable from the auto parts store. If you're making one from scratch, 32" 0ga would be perfect.
Lastly, mounting the solenoid box. On the driver's side engine bay fender, just behind the fuse box, are two M8 threaded holes. Maybe something goes there on the 4cyl model, I don't know. I removed the solenoid box cover, wiggled the solenoid packs around just right until the bottom plate came off. I removed the two stock bolts and pounded the plate flat with a small sledge (it has some curved flanges to mate with the motor housing). I enlarged the slotted mounting hole to fit an M8 bolt, test fitted the bare plate, then marked and drilled the hole location for the second bolt. Installed two M8x20mm bolts, washers, locknuts, and fitted the solenoids back in place. Finally add all the power wires. Used some large black wire loom and routed all the cables tucked along the very outside of the fuse box, battery, and behind the headlight. A dozen zipties secure the cables behind the grill and down to the winch. With the grill on, the wiring is scarcely visible.
You can see the two threaded holes I mentioned in some of the photos above. Here you can see the power cables snaking around the battery in the lower right. Eek, probably need to steam clean the engine one of these days. Dozens of Utah and Nevada trips without cleaning, that can't do anything good in the long term.
I relocated my solenoid box into the driver's side engine bay, right behind the fuse box. It comes with three short 2ga cables (yellow, green, blue) and two 72" 2ga cables for mains power. I ordered a pair of 72" 0ga cables (for ground and yellow, or "A") and relocated the two long 2ga cables (green and blue, or F1 and F2). The short cables were just a bit too short to reach from the battery to the solenoid box, so I added a 2ga 35" cable from the auto parts store. If you're making one from scratch, 32" 0ga would be perfect.
Lastly, mounting the solenoid box. On the driver's side engine bay fender, just behind the fuse box, are two M8 threaded holes. Maybe something goes there on the 4cyl model, I don't know. I removed the solenoid box cover, wiggled the solenoid packs around just right until the bottom plate came off. I removed the two stock bolts and pounded the plate flat with a small sledge (it has some curved flanges to mate with the motor housing). I enlarged the slotted mounting hole to fit an M8 bolt, test fitted the bare plate, then marked and drilled the hole location for the second bolt. Installed two M8x20mm bolts, washers, locknuts, and fitted the solenoids back in place. Finally add all the power wires. Used some large black wire loom and routed all the cables tucked along the very outside of the fuse box, battery, and behind the headlight. A dozen zipties secure the cables behind the grill and down to the winch. With the grill on, the wiring is scarcely visible.
You can see the two threaded holes I mentioned in some of the photos above. Here you can see the power cables snaking around the battery in the lower right. Eek, probably need to steam clean the engine one of these days. Dozens of Utah and Nevada trips without cleaning, that can't do anything good in the long term.
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Youngunner
Adventurer
I spent some serious time working this one out:
I removed the solenoid from the original box and wired it into a completely water-tight box. I think it's manufactured by a company called Hammond.
The box originally had the control plug mounted directly as pictured below to be accessed with the hood open, however, this was moved to dash (see next image).
It's difficult to get a direct shot of the box mounted, it's tucked between the battery and fender.
The tricky part was wiring in an extra in-cab switch. (The red switch is the master "ON/OFF" with the amber LED indicating "ON" and the "IN/OUT" is controlled with the little black toggle to the left).
The clutch lever is also operated inside the cab with a "push/pull" style cable.
Finally, I filled in the ugly hole in the ARB bumper that let all the mud/rain/snow in from the top. A piece of aluminum was cut to shape and bolted in. I covered it all up with some grip-tape.
I removed the solenoid from the original box and wired it into a completely water-tight box. I think it's manufactured by a company called Hammond.
The box originally had the control plug mounted directly as pictured below to be accessed with the hood open, however, this was moved to dash (see next image).
It's difficult to get a direct shot of the box mounted, it's tucked between the battery and fender.
The tricky part was wiring in an extra in-cab switch. (The red switch is the master "ON/OFF" with the amber LED indicating "ON" and the "IN/OUT" is controlled with the little black toggle to the left).
The clutch lever is also operated inside the cab with a "push/pull" style cable.
Finally, I filled in the ugly hole in the ARB bumper that let all the mud/rain/snow in from the top. A piece of aluminum was cut to shape and bolted in. I covered it all up with some grip-tape.
I spent some serious time working this one out:
I removed the solenoid from the original box and wired it into a completely water-tight box. I think it's manufactured by a company called Hammond.
The box originally had the control plug mounted directly as pictured below to be accessed with the hood open, however, this was moved to dash (see next image).
It's difficult to get a direct shot of the box mounted, it's tucked between the battery and fender.
The tricky part was wiring in an extra in-cab switch. (The red switch is the master "ON/OFF" with the amber LED indicating "ON" and the "IN/OUT" is controlled with the little black toggle to the left).
The clutch lever is also operated inside the cab with a "push/pull" style cable.
Finally, I filled in the ugly hole in the ARB bumper that let all the mud/rain/snow in from the top. A piece of aluminum was cut to shape and bolted in. I covered it all up with some grip-tape.
Ding, Ding, Ding..... You have my vote for the winner. Great work:Wow1:
I spent some serious time working this one out:
I removed the solenoid from the original box and wired it into a completely water-tight box. I think it's manufactured by a company called Hammond.
The box originally had the control plug mounted directly as pictured below to be accessed with the hood open, however, this was moved to dash (see next image).
It's difficult to get a direct shot of the box mounted, it's tucked between the battery and fender.
The tricky part was wiring in an extra in-cab switch. (The red switch is the master "ON/OFF" with the amber LED indicating "ON" and the "IN/OUT" is controlled with the little black toggle to the left).
The clutch lever is also operated inside the cab with a "push/pull" style cable.
Finally, I filled in the ugly hole in the ARB bumper that let all the mud/rain/snow in from the top. A piece of aluminum was cut to shape and bolted in. I covered it all up with some grip-tape.
Nice work!
How did you manage to squeeze that switch in the shifter surround. I wanted to put mine there but it looked like there was no room at all underneath it.
I guess I should look again...
I fabbed a simple "L" shaped bracket to attach the Warn solenoid from my 9.5XP to the upper fender of my '99LC. It has worked out just perfect.
I added Slee's remote control/in cab circuitry along with a OEM Toyota antenna switch (momentary 2-way switch) for in-cab operation of the winch.
Not your engine bay certainly but it may give you an idea
Off topic a little. Is your AC compressor mod to be a Air Compressor?
Dave Bennett
Adventurist
Thanks for the replies gents!
I finally got mine done yesterday :sombrero:
Relocated the winch solenoid pack under the hood, ran all new cables etc.
Made a new bracket for the Hella air horns and re-installed. Just enough room!
Now the winch is complete!
Super easy upgrade, 10 minute install.
(in a hurry...crappy pics)
I finally got mine done yesterday :sombrero:
Relocated the winch solenoid pack under the hood, ran all new cables etc.
Made a new bracket for the Hella air horns and re-installed. Just enough room!
Now the winch is complete!
Super easy upgrade, 10 minute install.
(in a hurry...crappy pics)
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