Which one?

#1
So, I'm a long time Land Cruiser guy. However, my 100 series was recently stolen by my wife and I am looking to try something different - a 2008 LR3 SE (SE for the 18" rims). I have found two different ones that catch my eye but are about 3k difference in price and I'm wondering if the difference is important.

The first truck is squeaky clean and I've seen service records. Air suspension appears to still be in great shape and everything is mechanically sound as far as I can tell. 70k miles on it and asking $15995

Second truck is also squeaky clean. 97K miles on it. This has had a new compressor put in it already, and has had the 90K service completed. Needs control arms fixed however (and tires as well). asking $13k.

Is this a no brainer? Or is there more than meets the eye here?

Cheers,
Jared
www.jaredlloydphoto.com
 
#2
Both seem a little high in price. What part of the country are you in?

You won't know if the air suspension needs work until you pull a fuse and let it sit for a few days. New compressor is a good thing though.

Either truck have the HD package?

Neither sounds like a steal. Good call on the LR3, I love mine.
 
#3
i agree on price - still half the price as similiar mileage LC, so I assumed it was the area. I live in Montana - population 1 million. So, I get stuck looking in places like Denver and SLC for vehicles.

Don’t know if fuse was pulled, but shop said they let the 71k mile version sit for 2 days at full suspension with no leakage.

I don’t believe either has an HD package. I don’t find myself in situations needing a rear diff in my 100 series LC, so even though I like the idea, I didn’t think it would be necessary for my life. I use my vehicles as part of my job, trekking all over North America’s backroads and dirt roads, but no HC wheeling. Really crappy FS roads and many miles of soft sugar sand on the beach is about as bad as it gets for me - other than the obligatory snow we have here in Montana winters of course.

I’ve been eyeballing these LR3 things for a few now. Good to hear you are digging yours
 
#5
I bought the 07 HSE version and put 18's on it. I don't thing I would get a vehicle just for the rims, they can be changed. HSE has the rear locker, find it very useful off road in CO, NM, AZ and Utah. Haven't been to Montana, perhaps, as you say, the roads are less harsh there.
 
#6
I bought the 07 HSE version and put 18's on it. I don't thing I would get a vehicle just for the rims, they can be changed. HSE has the rear locker, find it very useful off road in CO, NM, AZ and Utah. Haven't been to Montana, perhaps, as you say, the roads are less harsh there.
My understanding is that only HD package has a rear locker. Is this not the case?
 

nwoods

Expedition Leader
#8
My understanding is that only HD package has a rear locker. Is this not the case?
Correct. Most HSE's do not have it, and the HD is available in SE and HSE trim, though very, very rare in SE trim. Having driven both extensively, I will say the locker is not a deal breaker. The traction control is superb. There is a bit less drama and more ease in tackling various obstacles with a rear locker, but the TC will get you through as well.

I don't really have an opinion on your original questions.
 
#9
Correct. Most HSE's do not have it, and the HD is available in SE and HSE trim, though very, very rare in SE trim. Having driven both extensively, I will say the locker is not a deal breaker. The traction control is superb. There is a bit less drama and more ease in tackling various obstacles with a rear locker, but the TC will get you through as well.

I don't really have an opinion on your original questions.
I had read that the only way to determine the HD package was to climb underneath and locate the locker. I’m trying to hunt down a vehicle long distance like this, is there an easier way?
 
#11
The HD package is a distraction that comes up frequently here; stick with your instinct-you won’t need it. If it has it, great. There are other things I’d worry about first.

Regarding EAS, the notion that it will fail at 100k is a bit unfair to the brand. At 100k and over ten years old the system isn’t failing, it just needs to be maintained. Which usually means a new compressor, often new air bags, as well as the valve blocks (not all, necessarily-nor necessarily at 100k).

Between the two I’d go with the cheaper one and try to knock the price down or have new LCAs put in as part of it. That should set you up for a good stretch.

Overall it’s worth noting this won’t be a LC in many facets. Several of which are net positives. On the whole the LR3 is one of the best trucks LR has made and is a lot of truck for little money-esp for your application.
R-
Ray


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#12
Thanks for all of that information Ray. The cheaper one seemed like the obvious choice here - but going into it knowing the LCAs needed work and new tires were necessary means an additional $3k right off the bat - which puts me right back at the price of the first one. So, I’m that sense these trucks are the same money - but one will have suspension and 90k mike service and LCAs already done.
 
#13
X2. An HD package is a distraction for most use. If you REALLY need a locker, then you'll save up and do a nice OBA +ARB setup.

Yes. High on price. IMO, a LR3 shouldn't be more than $10k...ever. For $15k, you might as well get a few extra Gs and step up to an LR4. Early LR4s are in the ~$20k range, if that ballparks you.

Keep looking. 18" wheels aren't a big thing to swap out. If worse case, you can buy refurb 18" wheels off rock auto (that is what I did for my full size spare). But full service records is crucial and overall just a good, solid truck. But I'm starting to see a lot of 18" wheels for sale 2nd hand. Get em, repaint them (USE PROPER PRIMER, I didn't and that was bad) and slap some tires on.

If you aren't afraid to turn your own wrenches, these trucks are pretty cheap to own and service. Except for the transmission. LOL pay someone to do that. Control arms, I'm hearing about $800-1000 out the door at a shop to have those done. If that ballparks you.

SE trucks are probably the better to go with. If they don't have the Harmon Kardon stereo, then you have a good shot at installing an aftermarket head unit (side note, a stereo that connects to my phone, plays music, and offers hands free is SUPER IMPORTANT to me, so I mention this). If not, I do run a Kinivo BTC480 unit. It works well, just no integration. Plugs into aux port. Oh and the aux port on these is pretty gosh darn useless otherwise. Super bad feedback. Sometimes I miss not having the stupid screen in the middle of the dash, but that dash pocket is SO nice to throw my phone in when I'm driving.

Just keep looking around. I was fortunate, I only had to drive 2 hours to get my LR3. My dad drove 4 hours to get his LR4. I have three friends who bought plane tickets to go buy their rovers (one bought two rovers remotely, like a boss).

For parts, I buy all my stuff from LRDirect.com in england. I have an order coming now. They are usually super quick, however I bought some weird crap and then jerked around the order, etc. But seriously, its so cheap compared to buying stuff here. Stuff from filters, etc to replacement parts. Also the GAP tool has darn near paid for itself in the past 6 months. If I consider the time and frustration of going into a dealer, then it has paid for itself.

Oh, pre-purchase inspection...for ANY used luxury vehicle NOT off lease. You need this. But for real, call around. I was getting serious about a 100 series LC. One shop wanted $400 and "drop it off" (they weren't exactly convenient) while another shop was $75 and "if you call us the day before and setup an appointment, we'll have it done while you wait". So that is a thing.

My LR3 was the "wrong" LR3 to buy according to the interwebs. Its an 05, SE, no HD package, 5 seater, and questionable records for the past 30k. I got it, got maintenance up to date. Put on AT tires. Full scrub down. Taken care of little things broken (trim pieces, a door latch, tie rods, alignment, etc). I'm about to add wheel spacers and rock sliders. And I'll take it out to Colorado in the next 2 months. Before I put ATs on, I had bald street/performance tires (streets on the front, bald performance on the rear, LOL) and I was following around built 4runners. 2 months ago I towed my 109 on a Uhaul trailer a couple hundred miles. Worked really well and I wasn't fatigued. So I'll be towing again in the future with it. Mine had the "wrong hitch" on it with no keys. So I sold it and got the "right" hitch. It had wiring, so good to go there.

They drive so well on the highway. They do drive better than a 100 series on the highwawy, but only by a little bit. A LR4 blows the 100 out of the water on the highway. But it should since its a decade and a half newer.

On the highway, if you can set the cruise at 70 mph, it'll return good mpg.

Try to get one with the trailer setup already. If they've lost the key to the trailer hitch, don't worry about it. You can get new keys easily. Don't listen to people telling you to "cut it off" or anything like that. They dumb. New keys are like, $10 and A LOT less work than cutting anything. Installing the trailer wiring isn't great...but not bad...It was a pain. But its done.

But yeah, start looking at trucks and start looking at plane tickets. Be patient. Took me a month to find mine.
 
#14
I do have another question that is a bit off topic here: sand. How well do these things handle soft sand? Of course, driving in the sand is ALL about tire pressure and I run all my vehicles, even the excursion, at 15psi.

At 15psi, I usually do not even need to engage 4 wheel with part time 4 wheel drive vehicles unless the beach gets really bad.

The terrain response is a new monster for me. I’m used to pretty straightforward drivin on the beach - even with the LC. However, I hear lots of complaining about the LR3 in the sand and how folks hence felt like the TR was fighting them.

This bit is actually of crucial importance to me. I grew up on the Outer Banks, and still split my time between Montana and our cottage in Carova - which REQUIRES driving 10 miles on a beach to even access.

Any thoughts?
 
#15
X2. An HD package is a distraction for most use. If you REALLY need a locker, then you'll save up and do a nice OBA +ARB setup.

Yes. High on price. IMO, a LR3 shouldn't be more than $10k...ever. For $15k, you might as well get a few extra Gs and step up to an LR4. Early LR4s are in the ~$20k range, if that ballparks you.

Keep looking. 18" wheels aren't a big thing to swap out. If worse case, you can buy refurb 18" wheels off rock auto (that is what I did for my full size spare). But full service records is crucial and overall just a good, solid truck. But I'm starting to see a lot of 18" wheels for sale 2nd hand. Get em, repaint them (USE PROPER PRIMER, I didn't and that was bad) and slap some tires on.

If you aren't afraid to turn your own wrenches, these trucks are pretty cheap to own and service. Except for the transmission. LOL pay someone to do that. Control arms, I'm hearing about $800-1000 out the door at a shop to have those done. If that ballparks you.

SE trucks are probably the better to go with. If they don't have the Harmon Kardon stereo, then you have a good shot at installing an aftermarket head unit (side note, a stereo that connects to my phone, plays music, and offers hands free is SUPER IMPORTANT to me, so I mention this). If not, I do run a Kinivo BTC480 unit. It works well, just no integration. Plugs into aux port. Oh and the aux port on these is pretty gosh darn useless otherwise. Super bad feedback. Sometimes I miss not having the stupid screen in the middle of the dash, but that dash pocket is SO nice to throw my phone in when I'm driving.

Just keep looking around. I was fortunate, I only had to drive 2 hours to get my LR3. My dad drove 4 hours to get his LR4. I have three friends who bought plane tickets to go buy their rovers (one bought two rovers remotely, like a boss).

For parts, I buy all my stuff from LRDirect.com in england. I have an order coming now. They are usually super quick, however I bought some weird crap and then jerked around the order, etc. But seriously, its so cheap compared to buying stuff here. Stuff from filters, etc to replacement parts. Also the GAP tool has darn near paid for itself in the past 6 months. If I consider the time and frustration of going into a dealer, then it has paid for itself.

Oh, pre-purchase inspection...for ANY used luxury vehicle NOT off lease. You need this. But for real, call around. I was getting serious about a 100 series LC. One shop wanted $400 and "drop it off" (they weren't exactly convenient) while another shop was $75 and "if you call us the day before and setup an appointment, we'll have it done while you wait". So that is a thing.

My LR3 was the "wrong" LR3 to buy according to the interwebs. Its an 05, SE, no HD package, 5 seater, and questionable records for the past 30k. I got it, got maintenance up to date. Put on AT tires. Full scrub down. Taken care of little things broken (trim pieces, a door latch, tie rods, alignment, etc). I'm about to add wheel spacers and rock sliders. And I'll take it out to Colorado in the next 2 months. Before I put ATs on, I had bald street/performance tires (streets on the front, bald performance on the rear, LOL) and I was following around built 4runners. 2 months ago I towed my 109 on a Uhaul trailer a couple hundred miles. Worked really well and I wasn't fatigued. So I'll be towing again in the future with it. Mine had the "wrong hitch" on it with no keys. So I sold it and got the "right" hitch. It had wiring, so good to go there.

They drive so well on the highway. They do drive better than a 100 series on the highwawy, but only by a little bit. A LR4 blows the 100 out of the water on the highway. But it should since its a decade and a half newer.

On the highway, if you can set the cruise at 70 mph, it'll return good mpg.

Try to get one with the trailer setup already. If they've lost the key to the trailer hitch, don't worry about it. You can get new keys easily. Don't listen to people telling you to "cut it off" or anything like that. They dumb. New keys are like, $10 and A LOT less work than cutting anything. Installing the trailer wiring isn't great...but not bad...It was a pain. But its done.

But yeah, start looking at trucks and start looking at plane tickets. Be patient. Took me a month to find mine.
Great info! Thanks so much. How much combined weight were you towing? I have a 24’ skiff I tow now when at the coast. All said and done, maybe 4K lbs (boat motor trailer). I know the truck is rated for 7700lbs but numbers and reality are not always in line!
 
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