where are the Porsche cayenne expo builds?


New member
I have a first generation cayenne with the off road technology package, locking differentials, how can I make use of the option?


The package includes special side protection and a steel plate under floor panel around the*radiator*as well as a fully controllable (up to 100 percent) differential lock on the rear axle. To fully activate the lock, the driver operates the central off-pavement switch a third time. The fully controlled rear axle lock then ensures even better traction when setting off on slippery surfaces with varying frictional coefficients or when negotiating curves.

The package also uses*anti-roll*bars*on the front and rear axle. These*anti-roll bars*have built in "claw clutches" that are hydraulically activated and deactivated by a switch in the center console. This allows increased front and rear axle articulation by 2.36 inches (60 mm), which improves ride comfort by minimizing body sway and enhancing off-pavement driving qualities and traction when negotiating rocks, tree trunks or bumps.

To ensure the Cayenne’s sporting driving qualities on the road, the*anti-roll bars*can only be disconnected in the*low range mode. As soon as the Cayenne, with itsanti-roll bars*disconnected, returns from rough terrain to the road, the*anti-roll bars*are automatically reconnected as a safety feature once the vehicle exceeds 31 mph (50 km/h), thus providing the type of stability required for on-pavement driving."

Source the Head 6speedonline

Envoyé de mon SM-G955F en utilisant Tapatalk


This is very useful in mud, snow. Also to avoid a bridge crossing

Do not use it on a tared road
Risk of breakage

In the Ticino Swiss Alps

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Alternative to a roof top tent. Weatherproof, security, discreet, low cost, good mileage, easy in/out for late night visit to toilets. Cons: loss of cargo space.



Alternative to a roof top tent. Weatherproof, security, discreet, low cost, good mileage, easy in/out for late night visit to toilets. Cons: loss of cargo space.
Nice. You just have to get more creative w the space uses. First you don't need a base pad that wide if solo. I do a similar set up in bmw 5 series wagon but it's best to use passenger side for sleep pad and driver side for the gear.

I'll get a photo for you sometime but I put an ARB 37L fridge behind driver seat, then my full size spare upright along wall behind it, a gear bag beside that leaving plenty of room for feet area. I've also rolled in my Mtn bike with front wheel and seat off.

During winter I travel for nordic skiiing so all that stuff is in a cargo box on the roof.


Expedition Leader
Some off-roading add-ons

Over a couple of decades, I’ve had some pretty good off-roaders. But when they were on pavement, they ranged from “meh” to “downright poor.” No surprise, really. The complicated part of overlanding is deciding what you want to gain and what you’re willing to give up getting it.

Committing to off-road my Cayenne Twin Turbo is an experiment in doing it the other way around. The Cayenne is a great pavement vehicle, of course, but clearly not a full-on off-roader. But as most people reading this already know, it’s a long way from lame. I have rear and center locking diffs, up to eleven inches of ground clearance, some (barely plausible) skid plates and rock rails, and pretty credible tires with the Goodyear Duratracs discussed earlier.

So I’m off soon to do some moderate off-roading in southern Utah. They’ll be about 500 miles off-pavement and 2500 miles on pavement, so it’ll be a good opportunity to test the theory that I’ll have a better overall trip with the cushy highway cruiser than with, say, the very capable EarthRoamer Jeep I did much the same trip with three years ago. I’ll let you know. But assuming someone else wants to try the same thing sometime, it’s probably worth describing the recent add-ons beyond the Duratracs.


First, I’ll be carrying a rear hitch mounted winch. It’s a 6,000 pound Comeup with 100 feet of synthetic rope. The weight doesn’t faze the Cayenne at all (it’ll tow 7700 pounds) and it’s easy to take on and off. I’ve got a good shackle as I expect to routinely double the line, but there's enough rope for that to be easily done.


The power for the winch comes off a modified Warn power cable that attaches directly to the chassis battery under the driver’s seat and has Powerpole connectors on the other end to plug into the winch. This works because of the combination of a small winch and big battery (which has been upgraded to a new Odyssey). The cable from the battery will, not surprisingly, also reach to the front, and it is part of the plan to be able to attach the winch to a pair of frame-mounted front tow hooks should winching from the front be required.

I also have a new roof rack. It’s a Front Runner Slimline, and later on I’ll write up something about the fitment. For the moment, assume there's a good reason for it being mounted like it is.

I have a set of Maxtraks held on with Front Runner’s mounts and a ten pound Power Tank CO[SUB]2[/SUB] setup for tire inflation which rides in the Power Tank holder.



There are four two-gallon Rotopaxs, two water and two petrol, mounted on the Rotopax plate with extension handles. There’s also a shovel carried in Front Runner’s pretty cool ratcheting mounts.



On the driver's side, there's an 74-liter AluBox that’s a bit less than half full of fairly light stuff. The box is locked in place with Front Runner’s corner mounts and then held down with their stretchy webbing straps. There’s also a silicon nylon tarp and a set of adjustable poles (plus stakes and guy ropes) so that an awning can be fabbed by attaching the grommets on one edge of the tarp to the roof rack. That stuff is carried in a repurposed-from-my-Foxwing sack that's held by hook-and-loop straps.



Not too much else to share. My 17 liter fridge sits on the passenger’s side rear seat and has a modest-enough current draw to run easily off the rear console power port.


On the driver’s side rear seat, a seat organizer bag holds a lot of useful stuff that you’d want to get to pretty quick: sunscreen, insect repellant, maps, radios, water bottles, compass, rags and hand wipes, etc.


The rear cargo area carries a Pelican case with the off-road equipment I expect to need to get at (air hose, gauge, deflators, gloves, etc.), and a bigger plastic tool box with things I don’t expect to need but that are too heavy to be ideal for the AluBox on the roof. There's still plenty of room in the rear for the suitcases and other stuff that'll go into the various lodgings.



I am going to mount a rear differential lock. The electrical part is very complicated.

today we leave to make a Road Trip of 4000 Km Switzerland Austria Slovenia Czech Republic Croatia Italy


New member
porsche cayenne turbo overland build

-started with a used 2006 porsche cayenne turbo with 105k miles ($9k)
-added new 18inch rims and bf k02s ($1750 for 5)
-mavericks fabrication in Albuquerque, NM (my home) helped implement my design for:
-custom front brush guard with 2inch receiver for winch;
- rigid light bar
- custom steel skid plate
- rear spare tire carrier stock Wilco; with custom (mavericks) two jerry cans/high lift jack
- durametric lift of a couple inches (using the OEM air shocks)
working on adding a roof rack with roof top tent.
- and want to move the intercoolers at some point to get more clearance up front.

She's wicked fast and fun to drive.



Expedition Leader
I think anyone on here could find a v6 or v8 from 14-20k at or below 100k miles. These trucks will go 250k plus miles on any model with regular, non rock busting driving.

I have the Base(V6) 2006.

No offroad package, steel suspension/no air, so I am lacking a rear locker but I know I have center and front differentials I can engage. I will probably give it a whirl in the mud at my parents hay farm this spring when I slap on new Mud terrain tires, as I will have a tractor at my disposal to get me out of any deep stuff.

PSM uses a series of sensors as well as information from the Porsche Traction Management System, to monitor direction, speed, yaw velocity and lateral acceleration. PSM then uses the sensor readings to calculate the actual direction of vehicle travel.

The system can reduce understeer caused by sudden steering inputs when changing lanes or negociating a rapid sequence of bends, as well as mitigate understeer encountered when entering a corner at speed, especially in low-grip conditions. If the Cayenne begins to oversteer or understeer, PSM applies selective braking on individual wheels to help keep the Cayenne on the desired cornering line. If braking alone isn't enough to maitain control, PSM then utilizes the engine management system to control engine output in order to stabilize the handling.

PSM also compensates for mid-corner changes in load resulting from deceleration or braking, and when accelerating with the rear wheels on different surfaces, it improves traction and keeps the Cayenne on course. Braking is stable in all types of weather, while braking distances are reduced to a minimum.

A PSM indicator on the instrument cluster displays the systems presence. Of course, PSM can be switched off if you want to go nuts and is re-activated by braking in extreme situations.

When you go above OEM tire recs you get 18-22 mpg on highway and 15-18 in the city. This is the same mpg as the V8 but you can avoid the coolant pipe issue on the V6.

The V8's have pencil coils that tend to crack every 30k miles. I just changed my own pencil coils and spark plugs at 110k miles, simple read the manual or go to our Porsche forum. OEM replacements were about 200 bucks for Coils and 60 bucks for Spark plugs.

I just changed my battery via Batteries plus, the recommended battery was not shaped as the OEM, the sharp attendant caught that he had the one recommended for the V8's it was 850 CCA, 100 more CCA than what my OEM had , and it was 20 dollars cheaper. So I got the battery for 129 bucks, higher cold cranking amps, Batteries Plus always has a 10% off coupon on their site, and I got to do the dreaded every 5 years battery change. You see in Cayennes, the battery is under the drivers seat. TReg members have a good video on how to do this Service.

The VR6 engine(great little engine IMHO) with the porsche intake is the only difference and bumps hp 20-30 from Treg.....it is very solid and delivers about 220-250 hp depending on your foot. This engine is great but its still a heavy car, I expect to have this as my hunting/travel sled. I like the fact that the entire body is double galvanized, so even if I do strip off the paint on day. I know I could just go over it with a strong powder coat and mil spec it that way and kiss car waxing good bye!

Filters are simple changes in the engine, both V8 and V6, just V8 has one extra one to do.....there is an internal Cabin filter, 10 minutes to change the first time, then from there on its less than 5.

Oh and the tools are cheap, just torx bits and screwy hex bolts. The 12 spline bit for the chair bolts was only 12 bucks and I got 3 other bits Ill never use.....I had to shell out 80 bucks for a spark plug magnetic pit, extension.....no biggie?

Oil changes every 10-15k miles, but I try to change at 9 or 10k miles. I buy the 25 dollar OEM filter and oil myself, then go to any local quick lube and pay labor only.

Premium Gas all the time, or yes or it will seem sluggish, this is why diesel Tregs would be way more attractive outside of America for those wanting to do a true expedition across continents, diesel is the international language.

Problems with Cayenne
All models usually have Cardan shaft failure about 60k miles, you can buy a remanufactured one from vertex for 350 bucks. Alot of owners who are mechincally inclined buy the bearings and rubber joint that fails and rebuild their own.....or use a decent offroad shop in the neighborhood to do that work.

V8 models have plastic coolant pipes that fail, and soak the starter below them and then drip onto the transmission ruining the seals. Its about 1500 for a dealer to proactively replace these pipes, most cayennes above 30k miles have the aluminum replacement pipes already done, a sure to ask for when negotating prices. Most owners recommend a 5k slush fund @ purchase time, that's if the coolant pipes have not burst yet, if the cardan shaft has not broken, your coils and plugs not been replaced, and the pipes bursting and ruining transmission seals, starter etc......you can spend 4 times that on suspension mods. You can usually visually inspect to see if the pipes have been replaced with a large dental like mirror. The turbos have a T plastic pipe that is recommended to change too.....it just a pain to force it out from my readings. All of this is DIY on the website if worse comes to worse.

Air suspensions also tend to fail, those are expensive.....but I see members that do it on their own, I could not. Look on 6speedonline for Cole and Roxxboxx.......very DIY guys and great threads they have built.

I never go to the stealership.......never been forced to go to them either, like in a situation where only a porsche tech could solve this issue thing.... as all you need is an OBDII reader and access to forums to get insight. I would like to however go in and hook it up to the PIWIS now, its been since 47k miles that I have carried it on my own, and probably missed some effieceny updates and programming.

Only recent emotional scare and after wards I had one small local shop replace a vacuum hose that failed, it fired off the check engine light/oil warning and made the car rev high, I freaked at first but a simple smoke test found the leak...

My truck has been through one cardan shaft, I started to buy brake pads and rotors on my own(autohauz, pelican parts, sun coast/ sunset porsche), and keep extra halogen bulbs in the car, those are Over the counter stuff......the headlamps and rear lamps are cool, they pop right out, remove a wire pressure barrier, unplug old bulb, lock new bulb in place, then slide the entire light back in and lock down with a tool from the rear compartment.

so other than eating premium gas, brake pads, and any tire that is soft, I have really only spent money on consumables to keep it running.

By participating on the forums I have been able to pick up 22 wheels and tires for 500, a roof rack system for 150(dude through in 2 MAF sensors too?), 2 sets of OEM 17 Porsche wheels for $200 and one set had TPMS on them and some rotors off former owners cleaning them out.

Both VW and Porsche have an Aisin transmission.......think they are common and shop can fix....so no dreaded porsche only mechanics and parts.

The beta members have all done their home work on these......there is a guy named T2 on rennlist.....250k miles plus in 4 years on his Turbo Cayenne, 2 cardan shafts and few sets of coils, dealership changed his pipes under warranty.

I buy all parts online and stock up when I notice sales......

I have Just for brakes install all 4 pads, rotors, and hardware plus wear sensors with dot 5 brake flush, 275 bucks.....usually 200 in labor to do pads rotors and hardware replacement with sensors. The brake pads are extremely easy to remove, expand old pads, remove, and drop in new ones....very race inspired and easy.

Never gotten stuck and routinely can stay on a wet unpaved trail/road better than any truck with the PSM engaged.

I will think of more later and edit this.

You can buy front and rear bumpers of the Transissy to get better clearance too.....if you cant mod them up like in the video above, they just removed them..
Grrr lost half my post....
Check on State required reimbursements for failed coils. I recall our 1.8T we were reimbursed after CA State went after VW for the coil issue. Those werent cheap especially when they fouled up a road trip we were on.

Those rigs are really cool, but I would probably only buy a clean Auction rig fir dirt cheap knowing it could be a $5000-$9000 rebuild to have it 100%. Two RangeRover buddies are strictly Auction fat discounted guys. They get Rovers for around $15-18k with around 60,000 on the odo that have used car lot tags values around $25k. Do harnes fixes, etc then drive them into the ground. Which case that approach seems far more palatable than paying top $ for a costly rig that needs costly work done still. Same kinda deal on the Mercedes diesel GLs with the bum turbo seal issue.

An audi buddy found that some of the air ride parts have become tough to near impossible to get and really pricy, so research that some if your scoping these out. I had a few friends that had them. They were pretty solid rigs but fixing some of the minor stuff wasnt fun. They all ended up with toyotas, and domestic brands eventually mainly due to trips vs parts access and getting stranded some place waiting on a part.
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