What truck/camper combo won't shake apart off road, i.e. Dalton Hwy?

84FLH

Active member
Any hardsided camper with the features needed would be a huge headache on the specific trails in the videos. It can definitely be done but at the risk of being "that guy." I suppose a question to ask yourself, OP, is if you're willing to do that?

Finally, to answer the original question asked, I think a Total Composites box, outfitted by the builder of your choice, on a 550/5500 chassis to your liking, would be ideal.

Thanks, Andy. Great points.

I can clearly see now that a hardside isn't something I'd want or be able to take on trails like Schofield. Even the pop-up TC in James Lagan's video was rocking pretty good side to side. Although I think the driver could've slowed down a bit to lesses the rocking.

I imagine a hardside would be rocking much more, even going slower.

Definitely don't wanna be the newbie jerk in a hardside slowing/stopping traffic on trails like that.

The F550/Total Composites/custom builder setup would be perfect. Unfortunately, anout as much chance for that as waking up with all my hair growed back.
 

AbleGuy

Officious Intermeddler
“I'm starting to think the Alaskan might be the best of both worlds for me. The low profile is good for 'off road', such as I would drive; and while it pops up, it has hard sides, not fabric. A good condition 8 footer would be something I should consider.”

If this is going to be your selection, you’ll want to start shopping for one ASAP. Generally, these have been very hard to find on the FSBO market.

I may be able to fabricate some type of stowable/folding enclosure as a shower over the toilet, and plumb (it)... I believe the concept has merit.. a folding, solid wall shower enclosure.

With respect, this and the folding cabinets idea seem to indicate you might be over thinking your camper mods a bit. Something like a small portable, external pop up shower tent would work fine. Heat a coffee pot of water, mix it in with some cold water in a (collapsing) silicone bowl and use that set up to bathe inside the tent. There should be ponds and small lakes/streams to use as places to wash up too (or find a flow of glacier melt running through a culvert).

The folding cabinets are a pretty interesting design idea. But having to set them up every night sounds like they might be more trouble than worth. It might work better just to use some duffel bags or plastic, lidded bins to store extra gear, tossing them up on to the overhead bunk to get them out of your living space once you’re in camp for the night.
 

Todd n Natalie

OverCamper
The interior height might (or might not) be an issue for you. 6'3" to 6'4" based on the "Alaskan Buyers Guide" https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/buyers-guide/pop-up-truck-campers/alaskan-camper/ Alaskan Campers used to (and may still) do custom stuff.

The following quote "The interior height of the Alaskan 8.5FD is 6’3”. I am precisely this height and somehow found the interior head room comfortable. The cabover height was a bit tight for me to fully sit up, but the main living area was fine." is from https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/camper-reviews/2019-alaskan-8-5fd-review/

Keep in mind that that pickup truck beds vary. A spacer may be needed to lift the camper so that the cabover clears the cab, especially with older campers and some newer trucks. This wastes space and raises the center of gravity compared to a camper built for a specific truck. The quote "Our 2020 Ford has a pair of stumpy outboard fin-like antennas at the rear of the cab roof further reducing the clearance by a couple inches. To have at least 2 inches of clearance over our Ford’s cab, I used Dow Styrofoam Blue Board rigid XPS insulation in a 4-inch-thick x 4-foot x 8-foot block. It has a “non-compressibility” of 25 pounds per square inch. This is important. It is also very hard to find." is from https://www.truckcamperadventure.com/out-with-the-old-truck-and-camper-in-with-the-new/

You might want to read through:




Oh yeah! Haven't seen @Mundo4x4Casa around in a while....

Believe they moved on from the Ram.

 

1000arms

Well-known member

Oka 374

Member
What year was the truck? With about 180,000 miles and average mileage of 15,000/year, I'm guessing around 2000 model year?
The truck was 2005, was ex electricity work vehicle hence the highish k's but had been well serviced.

How did the 5.4 perform at highway speed (60-70 mph...although 60-65 is good enough for me)? Did it have enough oomph to pass other vehicles swiftly?
We usually sat on 100kph (62-3 mph) max as we found that going any faster greatly increased the fuel consumption.
Of course much of the travel was at a slower pace on back roads and trails.
Never had any problem passing slower vehicles but remember we were never in a rush and just took each day as it came.
Below after an overnight snowfall out in the Northwest Territories
P9300461 (Medium).JPG
 

NOPEC

Well-known member
Thanks, NOPEC (like the handle). Straight out, simple, good advice. 10 times better than Nike's "Just do it".

Thanks

So NOPEC is - (New Old Perfect Expedition Camper) - Yes, I know, pretty damn pretentious!!

It started life as a pretty rundown, somewhat water damaged 1995 Peak Industries "Kodiak" fiberglass SB camper. That company is long defunct. Lots of ripping and gutting, lots of ideas garnered here on ExPo, basic DIY skills and tools, some cash and lots of time. Quite a doable and super rewarding project!

P8110281.JPG
 
Last edited:

84FLH

Active member
“I'm starting to think the Alaskan might be the best of both worlds for me. The low profile is good for 'off road', such as I would drive; and while it pops up, it has hard sides, not fabric. A good condition 8 footer would be something I should consider.”

If this is going to be your selection, you’ll want to start shopping for one ASAP. Generally, these have been very hard to find on the FSBO market.

I may be able to fabricate some type of stowable/folding enclosure as a shower over the toilet, and plumb (it)... I believe the concept has merit.. a folding, solid wall shower enclosure.

With respect, this and the folding cabinets idea seem to indicate you might be over thinking your camper mods a bit. Something like a small portable, external pop up shower tent would work fine. Heat a coffee pot of water, mix it in with some cold water in a (collapsing) silicone bowl and use that set up to bathe inside the tent. There should be ponds and small lakes/streams to use as places to wash up too (or find a flow of glacier melt running through a culvert).

The folding cabinets are a pretty interesting design idea. But having to set them up every night sounds like they might be more trouble than worth. It might work better just to use some duffel bags or plastic, lidded bins to store extra gear, tossing them up on to the overhead bunk to get them out of your living space once you’re in camp for the night.

AG;

My second career is in manufacturing using manual and multi axis CNC machines. Designing and re-designing is 2nd nature; "continuous improvement", in manufacturing lingo.

The folding cabinets would simply swing 90 degrees along the length of the piano (or similar hinge). The only work would be unlatching from the storage position and latching into the camp position.

Of course, this 90 degree rotation flops everything in the cabinet around. A modified type of hood scissor hinge might allow the "swinging cabinet" to stow right side up, adjacent with and on the same horizontal plane as the factory cabinets. The hinge would connect to both ends of the swinging cabinet, and both ends of the fixed cabinet. Sorta:


Then again, good old heavy duty duffle bags on the floor when camper stowed would carry more than any swinging cabinet.
-------------------------------------------------------------

Nimbl's bath enclosure is what I was thinking of, except they use a shower curtain for the upper enclosure. I believe Northstar's Laredo 850 has a similar setup for their shower.

Building a walled shower setup is possible. But after thinking about it I realize it adds unnecessary weight and complexity.
--------------------------------------------------

Truck Camper Magazine reviewed Alaskan's 8.5 FD model. The review noted almost all the room in the cabinets underneath sink and stove were taken up with various mechanicals. This didn't leave much storage space. Since this TC may be home for months, if not longer, storage space has to be carefully considered.

There's a guy in my neighbor hood with a 1960's Dodge Power Giant power wagon and non-cab 8' Alaskan camper. Truck is faded red, just the right patina, but it runs down the road quietly and smoothly. I'll have to ask for a tour of the camper.
 
Last edited:

Tony Shelton

New member
We can easily drive 45-60mph fully loaded with the camper on some of the roughest roads around (think Death Valley). Increased tire sidewall is crucial (we are 37" tires on 17" wheels - next best would be 35s on 16" wheels). Air down (dictated by speed and weight). Upgraded suspension (this is the biggest factor) we run progressive leaf springs designed for the loaded weight and tuned 2.5" diameter shocks. We've run thousands of miles completely off road... Death Valley, Oregon BDR, Idaho BDR and plenty of "off road" routes to remote destinations.

No sway bars. No air bags. No overload springs. These items will beat you, your truck and camper up! If the ride feels rough on you then just consider what it does for your camper.

Gassers are great for reliability and simplicity. I'd recommend the newest truck possible with a proven drivetrain. Auxiliary fuel tank will get you the needed range. We have 55 gallons and have a functional (tested) off road range of 500+ miles. All trucks will be in the 10-14mpg (hardwall camper of similar weight and size) regardless of gas or diesel. Oversized tires will reduce that further. People claiming 20mpg are going downhill reading from their dash computer. There is no mpg magic when it comes to mass and weight other than reducing speeds.

We are running 35-45 mph on washboard roads at 19,500 lbs. It can be done without shaking the camper apart. We have a similar Shock setup to you guys with the addition of the 7k Sulastic Shackles in the rear. This video was made in real time without any speed up or slow down of the footage. Rarely does anything even fall out of shelves.

 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
We are running 35-45 mph on washboard roads at 19,500 lbs. It can be done without shaking the camper apart. We have a similar Shock setup to you guys with the addition of the 7k Sulastic Shackles in the rear. This video was made in real time without any speed up or slow down of the footage. Rarely does anything even fall out of shelves.


Are you running a front sway bar?
 

sg1

Adventurer
Hi,
After retiring in 2010 we traveled about 100,000 miles in Africa and the Panamericana with a Ford Transit AWD with a custom composite panel cabin. In North America we use a stock F 150 with a CampX pop up cabin and traveled extensively in the Rockies, Yukon and NWT preferably on unpaved roads. We had no serious technical issues with either of the trucks. What I would look for:
1. It is important to keep the weight down and the center of gravity as low as possible if you drive on bad roads.
2. Even after many thousand miles on washboard I still haven´t found a way to make it bearable. If you drive fast it feels better but you ruin your shocks and bearings and you cannot control your vehicle in case of an unexpected obstacle. If you drive slow everything rattles. The good news is that unpaved roads in North America are usually good (compared to Africa or Ruta 40). Upgrade your shocks and get heavy duty tires (and aire them down). Any truck will manage just fine provided it is not overloaded.
2. If you travel in cold weather you need good insulation without thermal bridges otherwise condensation will drive you crazy. Fiberglass-foam-fiberglass panels simply are the best solution if you want good insulation, durability and not too much weight.
3. Us older folks want their creature comfort and at least an indoor toilet on a long trip with bad weather. Going outside to find a bathroom or at least a bush in the middle of the night when it is raining is no fun.
4. The various Truma heaters are the best propane heaters. They are quiet and use less power and propane than the competition. I tested various brands and they dont´t even come close to Truma. I have no personal experience with diesel heaters but met a lot of travelers who had problems.
5. Size matters. If your camper is much wider than your truck or very high you have problems on trails. The smaller the better. A pop up camper is great, especially if it has insulated softwalls like the OEV camper. But they have disadvantages, like a very small door, lifting is hard whem you have a bad back and they are less secure than hardwall. I have never heard of a bear getting into a pop up though and we are living near Banff where Grizzlys are common.
6. A pass through is nice to have provided you have an insulated secure door between cab and cabin. A cab can´t be insulated or protected against break ins by two footed predators (much more dangerous than any 4 footed one).
Conclusion:
We have very similar ideas on how we would like to pass our time when retired. I would get a solid 1 ton truck, get 10 ply AT´s and the best shocks you can afford and otherwise keep it stock. A flatbed gives you a lot more space on the same footprint. There is no stock hardside camper I like. They are all too heavy, too wide and have lousy workmanship. I have never personally seen an Alaskan. But they are very heavy and I wouldn´t trust the foldable walls in the alcove to be waterproof. My choice would be either a Total Composite flatbed hardside with a custom interior or an OEV pop up. Both are no nonsense, lightweight and relavely compact.
 

sg1

Adventurer
Just one more thought: If you want to get a feel whether a camper is made for the rough stuff look at the little things. If the furniture is made of plywood simply stapled together it will fall apart. Doors and drawers must have proper locks (pushlock or Southco). Magnets won´t keep your door locked if the camper shakes. Hoses must be held in place and secured by proper clamps etc. Where side panels or the roof connect they must be covered by extrusions with sereal inches overlapp. Otherwise those seams will leak eventually. With heavy use water will get into walls or the roof sooner or later through seals at windows or other openings because on bad roads everything moves or twists and cracks will appear. If you catch them in time great. Expect not to catch everyone and plan for walls and a roof which will not absorb water or at least not rot when water gets in.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,910
Messages
2,879,489
Members
225,497
Latest member
WonaWarrior
Top