What truck/camper combo won't shake apart off road, i.e. Dalton Hwy?

84FLH

Active member
When I retire in 4 years I'd like to travel North America in a hard side truck camper. In particular, Alaska, BC, Yukon, Saskatchewan. I won't be rock crawling but want ability to drive the more remote roads in those places. Roads with washboards, undulations, off camber turns, rocks up to microwave size, etc. My off road experience is limited to local fire roads and jeep trails in New England; 4wd sometimes engaged but mostly not needed except for sandy/loose soil on steep inclines. Might have to attend some kind of driving classes before I leave.

In addition to the usual basics, the camper must have:

-Interior shower
-Good heating system (for 0 degrees to 10 below zero)
-Good insulation in floor, walls, roof
-Pass through

What camper brands offer the above? More importantly, which brands won't rattle themselves apart on the types of roads I'd want to drive? In my reading of trips on the Alcan, Dalton, and Dempster highways, a constant theme is campers and trailers that rattle themselves to death. I'd guess driving style and tire air pressure can mitigate some such damage, but seems that construction is most important element to prevent/limit self destruction from rough roads.

Besides the above concerns, what else should I look for in the camper?

Lastly, what should I look for in the truck? Diesel or gas, and why? If diesel, I'm thinking 7.3 IDI for the simplicity. As a retiree I finally won't be in a hurry, so don't need a PS diesel. If gas, I don't want a 10 MPG engine like the old 460. Definitely want 4wd. But beyond motor, 4wd, and transmission, what else should I look for in the truck? For example, should I put locker(s) on? What suspension changes are needed for bigger tires? What size tire is "too big" and why?

(In the late 1980's I owned a 4 cyl Nissan pickup and a 1954 Dodge pickup. The Nissan was for Home Depot, etc trips. The Dodge was for fun. Model "C1B8 118" (118 wheelbase). It was a rather unusual model in having a long bed (8') and high sides to the bed. 251 (or was it 249?) OHV V8. 6 volt, positive ground. Oil bath air filter. 3 speed column shift, smooth as silk. 100% original, down to the hubcaps. So quiet you couldn't hear it idling 20 feet away. Up close it idled like a sewing machine. No posi anything. Rustoleum brush painted a faded blue. Springs in the seat made you hit your head on the interior ceiling on a bumpy dirt road. We laughed like idiots driving to the swimming hole. Paid $700 for the truck and drove it home without a single problem. I bought an original service manual for around $300 and original parts manual for about the same price. All I ever did was put a new exhaust on it. Wish I never sold it.)

Hard sided camper offers more protection from curious/angry/hungry grizzlies than soft side pop-up campers. Bears have a tremendous sense of smell, even when food's inside 12v fridges or coolers inside vehicles. I can't imagine sleeping comfortably in a soft side pop-up after a nice steak dinner in the middle of nowhere.

Firearm carry in Canada is extremely complicated and limited to hunting only, not self defense. Driving around Canada with a firearm in the vehicle for self protection, and no plan except to find the next remote campsite, will get you arrested, tried, and sentenced.

Thanks in advance for your experienced advice and observations.
 
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simple

Adventurer
This isn't quite what your asking about but I thought I would put it out there to expand your thinking. I owned this truck last summer and it has since moved along but it is the kind of thing that can take a pounding. I say this because the DNR ran it all over hell and back on gravel roads fighting fires and it was still holding together really well. The box was very heavy duty and had thick steel sheet metal exterior and interior skins. Would be more bear resistant than a lot of the production RV's out there.

 

montypower

Adventure Time!
Check out our truck and camper builds... we have plenty of videos showing capability. Far more than you'll likely need but could give you ideas.
 

deserteagle56

Adventurer
To my knowledge there is no cab-over type camper that will stand up to hundreds of miles of washboardy roads. The constant vibration will crack plastic drain lines and tanks and shake all the cabinets apart. I live in the middle of Nevada, been there, done that. Very few paved road around here. I still use my cabover but stay off the severe washboards; when I get to rough roads I park and use the Jeep. You talk about off-camber...I used to have my campers on SRW (single rear wheel) trucks...a cab-over camper is very tall. Off-camber roads with a tall cab-over is a dicey situation. After scaring myself a few times that way I went to dual rear wheel (much wider stance). Much more stable. Another thing many new cab-over camper owners forget is that many forested back roads have tree limbs that will not clear a camper that is 12-13 feet high, and the skin on that camper is not very stout.....
P1070947r.jpg

I also vote for the early Cummins engine versus the old 7.3. Rock solid dependable and easy to work on/service.
 
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simple

Adventurer
My experience is pretty inline with DE56. I've had northern lite and bigfoot along with other RV's and trailers and washboard was never fun. I would slow down to a crawl 5mph knowing that any faster would start to degrade things.

I've read quite a few post of people doing rugged dirt road with lance and other traditional builds and doing fine. I imagine those campers had a much shorter life span than they would have otherwise which doesn't satisfy your requirement of not being shaken apart. Maybe buying an older unit and committing to the idea that it will only last a short period of time is a worthwhile way of looking at it. I'm assuming you are not considering anything custom built and that your budget is between 20 and 50k.

When out exploring dirt/gravel roads, a typical RV always limits how far I want to go to get into a place. I'll go pretty far in a half ton. I have a 1500 van and pickup. I'd go even further and faster on a dual sport which is the most efficient if there is vehicle access. No vehicle access (closed road) I can get pretty deep on an Ebike with a full camping setup 12-15miles. Everything is a trade off.
 
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NOPEC

Well-known member
Common sense dictates to me, anyway, that adapting your driving style to the road condition is equally or more important than the choice of a vehicle or camper.

Since you are pondering a trip to Canada, you will find that many of the thousands of kilometers of gravel backroads here often have an industrial application for hauling commodites like logs, ore, livestock or grain and in fact, that is often the reason that they exist in the first place. Although you do find some washboard, various frost heaves and general bad spots, most of the roads have a reasonable standard of condition due to their current or prior use for heavily loaded vehicles. The weights that these roads have/had to endure required good initial engineering, surfaces, drainage and maintenance, all of which have led to generally good condition and longevity.

Major gravel roads such as the Dempster and Robert Campbell Highway in the Yukon/NWT are generally pretty well maintained and although weather may make them greasy, it is unlikely you will find much in the way of long stretches of really rough surface.

Now if you want washboard, you will definitely find it on prairie gridroads. Unloaded pickups, driving fast, are the cause of most washboard out there, especially on hills and the exit side of 90 degree corners (Grid Corrections). Us farmers always have somewhere to go to in a hurry!
 
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montypower

Adventure Time!
We can easily drive 45-60mph fully loaded with the camper on some of the roughest roads around (think Death Valley). Increased tire sidewall is crucial (we are 37" tires on 17" wheels - next best would be 35s on 16" wheels). Air down (dictated by speed and weight). Upgraded suspension (this is the biggest factor) we run progressive leaf springs designed for the loaded weight and tuned 2.5" diameter shocks. We've run thousands of miles completely off road... Death Valley, Oregon BDR, Idaho BDR and plenty of "off road" routes to remote destinations.

No sway bars. No air bags. No overload springs. These items will beat you, your truck and camper up! If the ride feels rough on you then just consider what it does for your camper.

Gassers are great for reliability and simplicity. I'd recommend the newest truck possible with a proven drivetrain. Auxiliary fuel tank will get you the needed range. We have 55 gallons and have a functional (tested) off road range of 500+ miles. All trucks will be in the 10-14mpg (hardwall camper of similar weight and size) regardless of gas or diesel. Oversized tires will reduce that further. People claiming 20mpg are going downhill reading from their dash computer. There is no mpg magic when it comes to mass and weight other than reducing speeds.
 

84FLH

Active member
WOW! Thanks for all the replies, everybody! Will respond after reading them all. Quick browsing of everyone's response shows everyone has great advice! This is exactly the kind of information I'm looking for.

Thanks again.
 

Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
What I picked up was; what camper won't shake apart; and we can drive 60 on the roughest roads.

I'd suggest you fly up with a good tent, stay, then hop back on a that helicopter. The cost is likely the same.

As to the B4 rant, wow.

Seriously, how often does a grizzle attack a man in the wild who isn't holding a peanut butter and honey sandwich, or the guy in his vehicle? Totally gun toating slinger fantasy instilled by a gun culture funded by gun manufactures, and they eat that stuff up as if walking in the woods is going to battle with mother nature!

I own all kinds of guns, I'm prior military, I don't own a gun for a bear, I own them for idiots who have guns. I don't care about punk gang bangers, they aren't the problem as long as I don't tread on their turf messing with their drug party, my biggest concern is with those having some gun ideology of attempting to influence society because they are losers with nothing else to save their concept of civil society; or the way they think everyone should be.

The only real God given right you have is to live peacefully in society, and society isn't the problem, thinking you want to live in the 1840's might be the problem.
 

simple

Adventurer
Your discussion of firearms in Canada and the efficacy of bear spray vs firearms are both interesting topics and looks like there threads already started.
I say this because I haven't found any conclusive data to support the marketing claims of bear spray and would like to discuss it.

Bear spray firearm discussion

Looks like there is thread about Canada and firearms.
 
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Ozarker

Pontoon Admiral
Your discussion of firearms in Canada and the efficacy of bear spray vs firearms are both interesting topics that deserve their own threads in the sportsman's forum.
I say this because I haven't found any conclusive data to support the marketing claims of bear spray and would like to discuss it.

Well, bear spray didn't work that well on people a couple years ago, just say'n. I don't think I'd rely on it to defend my life. I think the best solution is not to get in a situation where you need it, but then that may take the fun out of things. Leave bears alone they leave you alone.
 

NOPEC

Well-known member
Good post. Point taken on the road construction and original design requirements.

My only add-on is sometimes given the length of the road even a small percentage of washboard / pot hole fields can add up cumulatively to that "miles of rough road".

OP wrote 'remote' so taking Sask, I'm thinking north of Prince Albert (fishing perhaps ?). Drive to Stoney and you're going to travel washboard, no way around it. They can't keep the entire route well graded at any one time. Even a shorter road like into Cumberland, washboard / rough surface is going to add up.

Another factor is maintenance for active industrial vs post decommission. Road to Cluff for eg.

As for grid roads, yep one of the best features of the Prairies. Varies of course but we've generally found them to be pretty good, except for getting directly from A to B !

My dad always used to joke about our county roads grader operator saying that his real name was actually "highblade". I never got the joke until I started driving.....

And grid road corrections, you generally only ever miscalculate one of those babies once during your short life, especially on a friday night...
 
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rruff

Explorer
Thus, most who carry a firearm for bear protection fool themselves into thinking their firearm (be it shotgun, handgun, or rifle) will stop a bear attack.

Bear spray has a far greater success rate.

Right on the 1st point, wrong on the 2nd. Neither is effective if a bear means business... but in that case you may get lucky with the gun. If the bear doesn't mean business, pretty much anything you do will be "effective". Rangers prefer that you don't kill the bears, though. Thankfully even grizzlies rarely want to hurt you... especially if you aren't stupid.

We can easily drive 45-60mph fully loaded with the camper on some of the roughest roads around (think Death Valley). Increased tire sidewall is crucial (we are 37" tires on 17" wheels - next best would be 35s on 16" wheels). Air down (dictated by speed and weight).

I think as far as ride smoothness on packed dirt/gravel is concerned, you want a tire that carries the load with the least pressure. That favors tall, wide, tires... according to Toyo load and pressure tables. The profile is harder to pin down, though. The load at 50 psi for the 37x13.5r17 is 3195 lb, for 18" it's 3525, and for 20" it's back down to 3195, and 22" is even less at 2910. So I guess if you want 37s, the 18" rims are the best? ? :unsure:

 

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