We need a Unisolar hack

dzzz

Having a thin, permanently mounted, durable solar panel on a vehicle roof would be great.

The Uni-solar 68w flexible panel (pdf spec sheet) is great for large vehicles, but too long for even a large SUV. Half as long and twice as wide would be great.
Anyone have a guess if these can be cut in half an rewired?
 

slomatt

Adventurer
Don,

I was thinking about this same issue earlier today and sent an email to Uni-Solar asking about the feasibility of cutting a PVL-68 panel in half and re-wiring it so the pieces could be side by side resulting in a ~4.6' x 31" array. I would expect this to work fine since the cells are likely only connected internally with two wires and a bypass diode. I'll post their response to expo if I receive one.

They have other sizes that might be better suited to a vehicle, but I'm having a difficult time finding a vendor with them in stock.

- All panels are 15.5" wide
- PVL-68 : 9 ft. 4 1/8 in wide
- PVL-62 : 8 ft. 6 3/4 in wide
- PVL-31 : 4 ft. 7 1/2 in wide (6v)

The PVL-31 seems like a great option since two could be combined in series to create a 62w 12v panel that is a reasonable size. The problem is finding a source to purchase one. It seems like the smaller dimensions may have been discountined

Some other facts that might be useful:

- “Peel & stick” adhesive backing capable of withstanding 160 mph wind loads

- Cell Type: 11 triple junction amorphous silicon solar cells 14" x 9.4" (356 x 239 mm) connected in series (For PV-68)

- The top encapsulate is Tefzel®, an exceptionally durable clear Teflon that repels environmental pollutants and is self cleaning with rainwater.

- Bypass Diodes for Shadow Tolerance

As has been discussed elsewhere on expo these types of panels are less efficient than the crystalline variety, but the manufacturer claims that they work better in shadow and low light conditions.

The following link has a good selection of datasheets including details on the different sizes.

http://www.affordable-solar.com/uni.solar.laminate.pvl.series.68.watt.htm

These vendors have the lowest prices I've run across.

http://www.pvpower.com/uni-solar-68w-pv-module.aspx
http://www.solarhome.org/uni-solar68wpvmoduleamorphouslaminateblack644wcec12vpvl-68.aspx

I'm interested in placing a ~60w panel on the roof of my 4Runner and running a 10A charge controller to keep the battery topped off while in camp and using my Edgestar refrigerator and other accessories. Ideally the panel would be removable for storage, and I'm hoping that the ~1" gap created by mounting it on top of the factory roof strips would act as a bit of insulation while at the same time adding a negligible amount of wind resistance. This kind of setup would require a backing plate for the PVL, I'm still thinking about possible materials. I've heard that the bottom side of the solar cells gets very warm, so if someone wanted to get very fancy it should be possible to use aluminum as the backing plate and then run a set of heat exchange pipes underneath to provide a hot water source, but enough dreaming for tonight. :)

- Matt
 

raysun

New member
Hacking a PVL-68

This can be done, I have discected a PVL-68 to create a foldable solar panel to use while in the back country. Reassembling it as a 2 X 2 array of 3, 3, 3, and 2 panels.

Doing so is not especially technically difficult, but is a bit involved mechanically. The biggest challenge is dealing with the three electrical busses that run down each side of the array, and the bypass diodes.

The PVL-68 is arrayed as 11 panels wired in series. More accurately, each panel is actually 2 cells. Each of the cells is wired independently on either side of the panel. The two series strings of cells are wired in parallel at the connector end of the array. Each cell has a bypass diode for a total of 22 cells and 22 diodes in the array.

I cut a PVL-68 into for segments of 3, 3, 3 and 2 panels. The 2 panel segment included the junction box and external connector cables.

Looking closely at a PVL array, it is easy to see the physical edges separating each panel, so slicing between the panels at the junction line is straight-forward - until you get to the edges, where the bypass diode and conductive busses transect the panel separator line.

The PVL series arrays are very well made. From the back is the cold-bonding mastic which allows these panels to 'peel and stick' to metal (and other) surfaces. The mastic is sticky (surprise!) but easy to scrape away. Above the mastic layer is a very tough plastic membrane which is the bottom mechanical substrate and covers the bus strips, diodes, and photo diode grids. The plastic membrane is harder to remove - it's tough, and well bonded to the layer above - but can be cut away with a razor knife and patience. You will need to cut away this membrane in the areas where the busses need to be exposed for disconnection of the bypass diodes, and eventual rewiring.

You must decide on an approach to disconnecting the diodes, and severing the conductive busses. Looking closely at the array from the top, you will notice 'bumps' in the top membrane on either side of the array right at the dividing line between adjacent panels. These 'bumps' are the bypass diodes. For the purposes of cutting the array into sections, the diodes are very inconveniently located.

If you choose to preserve the diodes for use in rewiring the array segments, then you will need to dig into the back of the panel, 'excavating' through the membrane around the perimiter of the diode to expose it's axial leads, and the solder pads where the diode connects to the busses. Once you have the diode exposed, you can carefully cut one end at its solder pad and gently pry the lead up from its embed. After completing this (one for each side of the line where the panels are to be severed) you can cut through the conductive busses to separate the array into segments. Be careful cutting through the busses so that you sever them exactly centered on the line between the panels. This will make it easier to prepare the busses for rewiring.

In my case, I chose not to reuse the bypass diodes at the panel sever points, but to replace them with new bypass devices when rewiring the array, so simply cut through them as well - eliminating the 'excavation' step for now.

Once the array is cut into the number of panels desired, the reassembly process can commence. That's for another post.
 

Captain Jimy

New member
Inside info on Unisolar-

Hi-
I just joined I'm outfitting a catamaran sailing vessel and want to use some unisolar panels------------ I'm wondering about cutting to fit better and if that can be feasible- and if cut properly can the unwired part be made useful? - Captain Jimy
 
Noticed these are older-but with these still out there I can help now more than ever!

Hi-
I just joined I'm outfitting a catamaran sailing vessel and want to use some unisolar panels------------ I'm wondering about cutting to fit better and if that can be feasible- and if cut properly can the unwired part be made useful? - Captain Jimy

Hey There! I use Uni-Solar Panels for nearly all my customers as I swear by them. Since there now not being produced by UNI-SOLAR anymore (others will emerge are out there at a PREMIUM..), NOW is the time to get what you can and if you need to cut them down in length, width, or even 3 of the 4 possible sides, I can help. I'm working right now on a solar sign for a outdoor sports store that is using a Uni-Solar 128w panel cut down to 10.25" wide X 36.5" long and some other goodies so it's quite possible although tougher than MANY say it is/can be/etc.... There are a few types of conductive wire layered by EASILY melted and very thin tar like substance so be careful but GET THE PANEL(s) you can! The rest is something I can assist with and even sell if needed at well under wholesale let alone what is the "current market value" because of quantity (legit reason) and other BS out there (not legit..). STICK WITH IT CAPTAIN and if you email me I'll respond with pictures of what I've done on Houseboats, Yachts and even my hybrid truck if wanting as there WELL WORTH IT!!!!
- George www.greenguysolar.com or www.mastersolarfaster.com
 

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HenryJ

Expedition Leader
... even my hybrid truck if wanting as there WELL WORTH IT!!!!
- George www.greenguysolar.com or www.mastersolarfaster.com
Tell us more about the truck! Avalanche
icon_drool.gif
 

susswein

Observer
I have a few older uni-solar 22 watt panels that I'd be willing to part with cheap. They're flexible, but not self-adhesive, and some need the leads soldered back on. Let me know if you're interested.
 

Willy G

Adventurer
Probably some trimming and proper soldering in the right spots, but I want to see where this is going, just make the suzuki a little bit more interesting.
 

chequamegon

Observer
Hey everyone - trying to get some more info, it seems like a few people here have done these things right.

Just bought 3 PVL-68 panels, and I will be putting them on the roof of a Flippac. Due to that, they need to be shortened to 75" each. I really dont care to re-wire the cutoff, and dont need it, or have a place for it.

From what I read here, it seems that I can simply just cut them off, as long as I am careful to stay exactly in the middle of the space between two panels. Since I am not re-wiring, it is OK to just sever the diodes , and then just seal everything off with RTV?
 
Help on your question for more help feel free to contact direct..

Hey everyone - trying to get some more info, it seems like a few people here have done these things right.

Just bought 3 PVL-68 panels, and I will be putting them on the roof of a Flippac. Due to that, they need to be shortened to 75" each. I really dont care to re-wire the cutoff, and dont need it, or have a place for it.

From what I read here, it seems that I can simply just cut them off, as long as I am careful to stay exactly in the middle of the space between two panels. Since I am not re-wiring, it is OK to just sever the diodes , and then just seal everything off with RTV?

=========================
I was sent a email on this thread to help out and basically I'll say this: your going to need to ensure the circut is complete. The panels won't work from my experience with them if there is not a loop created at the point where you cut them. Thus, you simply need to place your volt meter on the positive and negative terminals AFTER MAKING YOUR CUT, then use a single wire to touch one part of the layered metal to another on the other side. It's really hard to explain but hopefully this picture helps and if you need any other assistance please feel free to contact me/us via our website at greenguysolar.com. GOOD LUCK!!!
- George
Founder and CEO of GGS, SPA, and GET.
Unisolar Cut on Truck with info.jpg
 

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