We are looking at getting a Xterra for an expo vehicle General input wanted.

[PMA4x4]

So the wife and I are considering a Xterra as a option. Right now a '02-'04 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.7 v8 is our fallback vehicle. I would like to find out some things regarding the Xterra

Main use will be expedition cross country just in North America will tow a AT Chaser trailer and run on light trails.
What current Xterra owners think of them?
What are good years to look for?
Do I want a certain trim level or package?
I have heard the front end of the Gen 2s are "weak" any explanation?
Auto or manual?
1st Gen or Second?
Is the 2nd gen really worth it to get the 4.0 with the extra 30hp bump from the gen1 3.3?
What years came with the Dana 44?
how do i find the right model with the factory E-Locker and is it worth it?

What should I avoid?
and any "common" problems or know issues?

This may seem like a lot of questions but I have been in Jeep for the last 15 years so This ill be something new to learn all over again.

Thank you

 

[xearth]

Main use will be expedition cross country just in North America will tow a AT Chaser trailer and run on light trails.
What current Xterra owners think of them?
What are good years to look for?
Do I want a certain trim level or package?
I have heard the front end of the Gen 2s are "weak" any explanation?
Auto or manual?
1st Gen or Second?
Is the 2nd gen really worth it to get the 4.0 with the extra 30hp bump from the gen1 3.3?
What years came with the Dana 44?
how do i find the right model with the factory E-Locker and is it worth it?

I've got a 2000 SE and I mainly went with that because of the body type. I like the original body and overall styling, and that, coupled with my budget pretty much sealed the deal. The front travel leaves a little to be desired, but I couldn't ask for much more in the rear. After disconnecting the sway bars and installing some longer shocks it flexes pretty well.

As far as years go, the 00-01 had the original body type and dash with the square headlights and 3 leaves in the rear. The 02-04 re-did the headlights and front grill, the dash, and only had 2 leaves in the rear. They remodeled the X in 2005 and I wasn't a huge fan of the body type at first, but if a more powerful engine and increased fuel economy is a want, you may want to consider that route.

I've got the gen 1 3.3, and as far as hp goes, it feels a little lackluster, especially getting up to speed on the freeway. And that is also with a bumper, winch, skid, and sliders and loaded down for the weekend. I also haven't upgraded the exhaust or air intake, and I know that helps people out at least a little. But if you are really looking for more power, the 2nd gen would probably be the way to go (but I LOVE the 1st gen)

I can only speak for the gears in the 1st gen, but they come with either 4.3, 4.6, or 4.9s, and that is one regret I have is not checking to get the 4.9s (I have the 4.6s). I believe unless an aftermarket locker was installed, only the second gens will have it (and probably the off road or pro-x version or whatever it's called)

One last thing, I've been kind of questioning whether or not I want to keep using the X as a weekend wheeler and expedition vehicle, and it has been in the shop for the past 3 weeks. Last week I got it back, immediately forgot about the high speed and agile maneuvering rental (relative to the X of course), took it down to Coal Creek in Tennessee, and couldn't be happier! Every time I step up into it and turn the engine, I know I made the right decision. Just my 2 cents (maybe 3 at this point), but I hope this helps at least somewhat

 

[xearth]

What should I avoid?
and any "common" problems or know issues?

This may seem like a lot of questions but I have been in Jeep for the last 15 years so This ill be something new to learn all over again.

Thank you

Oh, and at least for the 1st gen I'd check the timing belt and the knock sensor. The timing belt needs to be changed around every 100k and the knock sensor tends to be a common problem

 

[drbandkgb]

Gen 1 Xterras are more truck based SUV's
3.3 Motor is a dependable engine.. 160-220sc HP. This is not a speed demon towing is 5k AT and 3500 MT
Timing belt is the key to this engine.. Needs to be changed every 105k water pump should be done as well..
Im seeing distributor issues at 150ish miles. Pretty easy fix.. The facory radiator in the Gen 1 2000-2001 is a bit small.. The Super charger
Radiator cooler is much thicker and for towing id upgrade. May mods can be done to this sweet little rig.. I have owned 2 of these..
4x4parts is a major supplier of parts and well as calmini. Check out www.xterranation.org for more details
2000-2001 XE basic and SE sun roof Other than that they are about the same
2002-2004 (round lights) XE basic and SE sunroof. They also have a SC version. They added a Super charger which bumped the hp's up to 220HP but the draw back is it needs high test fuel.
14-18 MPG


Gen2 2005-2013 was a upgrade and some what a down grade.
4.0 v6 261 HPs this is a very spunky motor. They tend to wear timing chains and the AT has a radiator issue. The Tranny cooler can crack and mix radiator/tranny fluid
which can kill the transmission. Easy fix is to by pass this cooler and add a aftermarket one. Some have had front diff issues.. Everything I have seen.. Its been too much wheel spin and BOOM! cracks the diff case.. They can be upgraded to a titan front diff.. This has been a pretty sweet upgrade as it adds a few inches to the stance..
They have a few models to pick from and they can change from year to year..
X - basic S-basic SE-plush with all the upgrades Offroad/ProX4 is the king of Xterras.. This one comes with a factory rear electric locker and a little better suspension
All Gen 2 Xterras tend to sag a little over time.. PRG and Nisstec offer replacement rear leaf springs that can fix this issue. If I were towing any with one Id upgrade the leafs big time..
MPG 14-21

Check out Xterranation.org for more info on these Xterra's

 

[Gunnslinger]

I drive a 2011 Xterra with the Off Road package.
The Off Road package includes skid plates, a rear locking differential, 32" tires and heavy duty shocks. In the USA the Off Road is replaced by the Pro 4 but they are similar.

I installed Timbren rear extended bump stops because the rear suspension would bottom out under even a modst load. I highly recommend installing the Timbren bump stops.
Also installed a BajaRack Expedition rack for the roof tent and 2m awning.
Future plans include battery upgrade and BFG All Terrains.

So far it has been a pleasure to drive both daily and on trips of 3-4 days with 4 passengers. The back seat is a little tight for adults but is OK for my kids. With the trailer you should have plenty of room for gear and passengers if applicable.

The 4.0l engine seems more than adequate with the automatic transmission.

I wish there were more recovery points (only one in front and a tie down point in the rear). The plastic bumpers do not lend themselves well to using a Hi-Lift jack. I carry a Bushranger X-Jack inflatable instead.

Overall, I give the Xterra high marks.

Good luck.

 

[drbandkgb]

I drive a 2011 Xterra with the Off Road package.
The Off Road package includes skid plates, a rear locking differential, 32" tires and heavy duty shocks. In the USA the Off Road is replaced by the Pro 4 but they are similar.
.

The offroad was replaced by the proX4 in 09 They are the same except the mickey mouse lights.. only the name changed..

 

[LngDstncVygr]

I have a 2011 Pro4x and a Chaser. You'll probably find that the X does okay for your intended service (it sounds like you won't make many demands of it). Compared to my 2011 JK Unlimited Rubicon, the extra power of the X's engine makes life far nicer. (I live in CO and the trips into the mountains and across the "divide" are simply painful with the Jeep.) We just pulled the Chaser down to the Overland Exposition with the X--averaged over 16.5 mpg for the round trip from-and-to Denver--and the trip was far more "relaxing" than with the Jeep . (This was our first real trip with the X and the trailer.) You'll almost certainly find the X's suspension inadequate--even on the highway--with the too-heavy tongue-weight of the Chaser: factor a major upgrade of suspension into your calculations. Compared to the JKUR, the X is simply a less capable vehicle stock--it simply doesn't have the "features", like dual lockers and the swaybar release that the Jeep does. And, of course, the combination of IFS in the front and leaf springs in the rear means that the X simply won't go places that the Jeep will go. (This may not be a big thing given your stated intended use.)
At this point I cannot attest to the overall quality or robustness of the X. I am "worried" about what I read about how fragile the aluminum differentials are--there seems to be a lot of failure when these things are actually used in some setting other than a mall parking lot.(!). I am also "worried" about the engine issues (like the timing chain, etc)--though for the moment I'd trade this engine for the one in the Jeep! Pay no attention to the factory "skid plates"--they are flimsy pieces which will offer only minimal protection and only in the least call of duty. (My factory "skid plates" were removed almost immediately and replaced with "real" armor.)
Supposedly the automatic transmission issue mentioned by Dave has been "resolved"--but his recommendation for bypassing the NIssan cooler and adding an aftermarket one makes great sense even now (albeit at the cost of your warranty!) given the way Nissan "resolved" the problem. (The problem is that Nissan uses an aluminum radiator--Nissan uses a LOT of aluminum(!)--and it is very fragile and reactive in that service. A radiator replacement might also be considered if you don't do the bypass, after-market cooler "fix".) I have heard rumors that the clutch tends to slip with the manual transmission, especially when trailering, because Nissan didn't upgrade it when they changed the engine. I have not experienced this so far.
Be aware of a few very small things--the X has no outside thermometer, the manual transmission X does not offer satellite radio (HUH??), the X drops out of "cruise" mode with the least drop in speed (this is really quirky).
The X offers more tie down opportunities in the rear than does the Jeep--at lease in theory: YMMV in practice . . . .
Overall, the X appears to be an okay, light-duty off-road vehicle, especially in the Pro-4X configuration. It may serve your interests well enough.
Good luck.

UPDATE: The OP eventually decided to go the Jeep route--which was probably a good decision for him. I add a few comments to my post in case there is another Xterra + Chaser sort of question.

I mentioned above that the Xterra did not handle the excessive tongue-weight of the Chaser well and suggested a major suspension upgrade would likely be required to make the Xterra suitable for such service. I took my own advice! I replaced the stock rear springs and shocks in the Xterra with a set of ARB/OME Dakar springs combined with the extra leaf (for a +440 lb weight capacity) and a set of extended length Bilstein 5100s. After several thousand miles and two trips since the replacement, I can say that that combination made a dramatic difference in performance (in the Xterra + Chaser combination). When I replaced the springs, I was not amused, but not surprised, to find that the real axle had no paint on the top--because of frequent contact between axle and bumpstops. With the Dakars + extra leaf (I would strongly recommend the extra leaf--though they have been very scarce!), the Xterra handles the Chaser tongue-weight with considerably more grace. Even on some fairly rugged forest service roads (the type use the OP expected) there has never been that annoying "bump" that one experienced all-too-frequently even on the highway with the stock Xterra springs and shocks. Two personal observations here. (1) While I understand that "feel" of suspension "ride" is a very personal and subjective thing, WE have not found the "ride" of the Xterra with the heavier Dakars to be objectionable (in "unloaded" daily use). Bottom line: regular street use is not seriously degraded while performance with the trailer is substantially improved. This is definitely recommended. (2) Warning: the heavier springs regrettably cannot be used to overcome the inadequate cargo-carrying capacity of the Xterra (which may be under 700 pounds in some configurations). The vehicle must be considered to remain a low-capacity vehicle even after suspension "improvements". The low carrying-capacity makes the Xterra marginal as an expedition vehicle--though for light-to-medium duty service, the suspension "enhancement" can make the vehicle perform much better that in its stock configuration.

 

[drbandkgb]

Its really hard to compare the ProX4 vs a Rubi.. for one I think the X is about 3 to 4 k cheaper.. and yes front and rear lockers. I have a feeling your going to see the Gen 3 start to compete with the Loaded Toyota's and Jeeps.. The 1st major upgrade to most off road SUV's would be tires.. The stock X has BFGs wanna be AT's Why Nissan will not add BFG KO's ill never know.. Im assuming its a MPG thing.. The roof rack is a very useful rack.. The wet box is.. well what it is.. a cool visual but really not much more.. I have seen people store straps and such up there.. Ride wise.. There is no comparison.. Xterra over every Jeep everyday..

The timing chain issue is when you start to get up in miles.. most I have seen are in the 100k range.. Much like the Gen 1 Timing belt id service the TC at that range.
IF your looking for a new Xterra Id buy now.. In August they are moving the production to Canton MS. The canton plant has had some Quality issues in the past.. They have a hard time keeping employees. From what I have been told @ the smyrna plant.. The work force there is just not very good.

If your looking for a used Xterra try finding a SE.. It was the loaded version.. These came with all the goodies.. Sat Radio outside thermo and very plush.. ARB is making a locker for the front and rear now too..

Anyways Ill stop hogging up the thread space.. Hope you are happy with what ever SUV you pick..

 

[RonapRhys]

As a Gen2 owner and driver, I'll try to answer your questions as best I can.

• Main use will be expedition cross country just in North America will tow a AT Chaser trailer and run on light trails. Dammitalltohell, I'd love to own one of those trailers. I'm already jealous.
• What current Xterra owners think of them? I love my X. Honestly, if something were to happen and I needed to get a new vehicle, it'd be a clone of what I've got now. Same trim and everything.
• What are good years to look for? If you can, I'd look to get a 07 and up. They added 4 spider gears instead of two, you've got a few more nice to have electronic doo-dads, and they tend to run well.
• Do I want a certain trim level or package? I'd suggest the OR trim. Having the D44 variant (M226) rear axle with the locker is a very nice feature. I've got the 6spd, so it also comes with a clutch start feature, but the manuals come with a hill descent control. You'll also get factory sheet metal skid plates which will get the job done for light wheeling.
• I have heard the front end of the Gen 2s are "weak" any explanation? Too much wheelspin = no bueno. People will get one front tire on the ground, the other spinning at high speed, and then it suddenly gets traction and breaks. It's either that or they start bouncing, which leads to the same condition.
• Auto or manual? You'll get better mileage with the stick, but if you spend any significant amount of time towing heavy things, the clutch will wear out quicker than you'd like. One thing to also consider is that the 6spd gets lower gearing (I've got 3.69 gearing vs the 3.36 (I think) for the autos).
• 1st Gen or Second? I'm a fan of the Gen2's, but that could be personal preference. More powerful engine, better fuel economy.
• Is the 2nd gen really worth it to get the 4.0 with the extra 30hp bump from the gen1 3.3? As far as I'm concerned, yes.
• What years came with the Dana 44? OR trim versions, Gen 2
• how do i find the right model with the factory E-Locker and is it worth it? OR version - but get under there and make sure someone didn't just paste a badge on the X. You'll have the upgraded axle, wiring for the e-locker, and the switch on the dash.
• What should I avoid? That's a personal preference and budget deal. The only thing I'd really avoid is a Gen1 that's not had the timing belt changed. They're interference engines, so if the belts goes you've got bent valves, potentially damaged pistons, etc. Bad times, that.
• and any "common" problems or know issues? With the Gen2, there's a few recalls of note: FSU, IPDM-ER, and the SMOD.
  1. FSU = Fuel sending unit. It starts to go bad and gives unreliable readings. You should be able to check with a dealer to see if the warranty is necessary. I believe they've got an extended warranty on that.
  2. IPDM-ER = control module relay that fails. It's a very simple fix for the shop to do. Swap out one relay, IIRC, and you're done.
  3. SMOD = Strawberry Milkshake of Death. That's what happens when the cooler cracks and you get coolant in with the ATF. Bad times and all. Most folks do the bypass, but if you're hauling a trailer I'd suggest you get an aftermarket cooler to help with this. I'm a manual, so this isn't an issue with me.

Some things I'd do if it were me, especially considering your intended purpose:

• Breather mod - the rear axle breather works well under normal conditions, but if you're going to go through water I'd suggest doing an extended breather. Basically you replace the existing breather with a nipple fitting and run a fuel line up to your rear brake light.
• Dephep or other drop in roof rack. The factory rack is cool, but these replacement racks drop right in and increase the utility of the rack itself.
• Upgraded tires - the Rugged Trails they come with are okay, but stepping up to 33" tires with a real tread pattern (BFG AT KOs or something equivalent) will be a very useful thing.
• Recess the trailer wiring harness into the bumper. The stock attachment point hangs from the bottom of the hitch and is susceptible to departure angle failures where it gets ripped off. It's pretty easy to drill a hole through the bumper (1 7/8", IIRC) to mount it up and out of harms way.

$0.02

 

[jarmentrout]

I'll try to write more later when I have a little more time and perhaps add some photos. But I agree with almost everything Ronaprhys as said above. In summary though my 06 off road xterra with a 6 speed manual has been a great vehicle for travel and adventure both on road and off. All I've ever owned have been 4x4 except for commuter cars and all of them jeeps until I got this xterra. Engine is great, ride is great (with inexpensive mod), big enough to haul stuff, the rear lift gate provides shelter and will open all the way even with a trailer on. And, fold the rear seat back down, open the lift gate and you have full visibility to back a trailer anywhere you need to. Mine has roof mounted curtain air bags as well as seat and front, and while I havent had to use them, it's nice to know they are there, especially when traveling in new territory and watching scenery.

I also can't say enough good about the electronics, not enough to get in the way and raise the cost of the vehicle to new 4runner levels, but just enough to be useful. Take for example the vehicle stability control, especially great with a trailer. It realigns the truck to the road without input from the driver. Spoil you rotten. And the electronic limited slip, that works on the front axle even in low range with the rear locker on. And, since I live and Maine and play in northern Maine, I sometimes use chains on all four wheels and it takes them fine. As he said earlier, the manual trans models get a lower axle ratio making low range (2.69 if memory serves) x 1st gear x 3.69 = a great crawl. OR models also some stock with 265/75/16 tires, a little bigger than the other models and the speedo is spot on.

Seats are comfortable for me at 6' as I prefer to have a higher seat and sit like one would on a nice chair in your living room with my knees bent, rather than have a high floor like a taco and sit stretched out.

I can sleep in the back and as a bonus, the back of the front passenger seat folds forward to make a completely flat bedside table for a lamp and the latest issue of Overland Journal. (replacing interior lights with LEDs is an improvement in light as well as battery life, and the rear 12v outlet as well as the one in the console box, and two on the dash are useful as well.)

It was mentioned earlier that the wet box on the roof is mostly useless. I disagree. I keep straps, bungees, rope, tarp, jumper cables, etc up there and its been very handy. The gen2 has a nice closing lid that latches. And even though the name might imply otherwise, everything stays dry. And there a good amount of storage under the rear deck too.

Just a little more about the engine. It just works well. And the torque is great. I can drive and shift it like a truck with a v8.

If you will be exploring off road a bit I would recommend a couple of additions: 1) a shrockworks.com or similar rear bumper. It has an integrated tow receiver and will improve your departure angle significantly over a factory style hitch. Before installing, add some skateboard grip tape to the top surface. Wheelbase is shorter than a JKU by a little, but the departure angle is a little worse. Hasn't been a problem for me.

2) prgproducts or similar rear AALs and spacers or similar. Will add almost 2" and rides better, with little if any impact on mileage.

3). Run the rear axle breather mod all the way up to the top of the firewall. Not much more work and you won't get water in the hose from rain running in behind the tail light.

For the price difference over a JKUR you can also add an ARB locker on the front if you wanted.

A few things I'd change if they ask me:
1). Why is reverse gear higher than first? When would I want to go faster in reverse with less visibility than I would forward? Come on Nissan, it's not a 370z. We tow stuff.

2) the alternator is located low. Though I have not had a problem at all in 74k miles, I just don't know why they'd do this.

I'm selling mine. But only because I ordered another 2012 to get another 6 years or more on a great (undervalued) vehicle. I want to get one before they have a chance to change it into a fancy grocery getter for lots more $.

 

[scrubber3]

I will add only a short response.

The Xterra is a great platform for overlanding. A locker is worth it's weight in gold.

 

[jarmentrout]

Oh. I forgot, the forum for the gen 2 xterras is: www.thenewx.org

 

[plainjaneFJC]

I'll try to write more later when I have a little more time and perhaps add some photos. But I agree with almost everything Ronaprhys as said above. In summary though my 06 off road xterra with a 6 speed manual has been a great vehicle for travel and adventure both on road and off. All I've ever owned have been 4x4 except for commuter cars and all of them jeeps until I got this xterra. Engine is great, ride is great (with inexpensive mod), big enough to haul stuff, the rear lift gate provides shelter and will open all the way even with a trailer on. And, fold the rear seat back down, open the lift gate and you have full visibility to back a trailer anywhere you need to. Mine has roof mounted curtain air bags as well as seat and front, and while I havent had to use them, it's nice to know they are there, especially when traveling in new territory and watching scenery.

I also can't say enough good about the electronics, not enough to get in the way and raise the cost of the vehicle to new 4runner levels, but just enough to be useful. Take for example the vehicle stability control, especially great with a trailer. It realigns the truck to the road without input from the driver. Spoil you rotten. And the electronic limited slip, that works on the front axle even in low range with the rear locker on. And, since I live and Maine and play in northern Maine, I sometimes use chains on all four wheels and it takes them fine. As he said earlier, the manual trans models get a lower axle ratio making low range (2.69 if memory serves) x 1st gear x 3.69 = a great crawl. OR models also some stock with 265/75/16 tires, a little bigger than the other models and the speedo is spot on.

Seats are comfortable for me at 6' as I prefer to have a higher seat and sit like one would on a nice chair in your living room with my knees bent, rather than have a high floor like a taco and sit stretched out.

I can sleep in the back and as a bonus, the back of the front passenger seat folds forward to make a completely flat bedside table for a lamp and the latest issue of Overland Journal. (replacing interior lights with LEDs is an improvement in light as well as battery life, and the rear 12v outlet as well as the one in the console box, and two on the dash are useful as well.)

It was mentioned earlier that the wet box on the roof is mostly useless. I disagree. I keep straps, bungees, rope, tarp, jumper cables, etc up there and its been very handy. The gen2 has a nice closing lid that latches. And even though the name might imply otherwise, everything stays dry. And there a good amount of storage under the rear deck too.

Just a little more about the engine. It just works well. And the torque is great. I can drive and shift it like a truck with a v8.

If you will be exploring off road a bit I would recommend a couple of additions: 1) a shrockworks.com or similar rear bumper. It has an integrated tow receiver and will improve your departure angle significantly over a factory style hitch. Before installing, add some skateboard grip tape to the top surface. Wheelbase is shorter than a JKU by a little, but the departure angle is a little worse. Hasn't been a problem for me.

2) prgproducts or similar rear AALs and spacers or similar. Will add almost 2" and rides better, with little if any impact on mileage.

3). Run the rear axle breather mod all the way up to the top of the firewall. Not much more work and you won't get water in the hose from rain running in behind the tail light.

For the price difference over a JKUR you can also add an ARB locker on the front if you wanted.

A few things I'd change if they ask me:
1). Why is reverse gear higher than first? When would I want to go faster in reverse with less visibility than I would forward? Come on Nissan, it's not a 370z. We tow stuff.

2) the alternator is located low. Though I have not had a problem at all in 74k miles, I just don't know why they'd do this.

I'm selling mine. But only because I ordered another 2012 to get another 6 years or more on a great (undervalued) vehicle. I want to get one before they have a chance to change it into a foo foo puffy wagon like the 4 runner for > $38k.

Dont worry about that. The x will never be half the vehicle of the 4 runner.

 

[PMA4x4]

I really appreciate all the feedback. The jury is still out on the decision. We are trying to find a gen 2 to check out. We still have the back up plan of a Grand Cherokee with the 4.7HO as default (as I am by nature a Jeep guy) but I am still wanting to give the xterra a chance. We are going to be looking at an 07 this weekend.

I never agreed with AAL. It always seemed like a band-aid. I would probably see about just replacing the whole leaf packs to gain carrying and towing capacity.

Someone said the diffs (as in both) are aluminum? is this correct including on the offroad package with the Dana 44?

 

[scrubber3]

I don't believe that aluminum is a strong enough metal to be used as a load bearing gear set. I could be wrong......