warn m8000 rebuild

Warn Industries

Supporting Vendor
Next step is to connect it back up and see if it works. I'll go through the gearbox and clean up the drum after. I'm looking at warn replacement cables - 5/16" by 100ft - does that sound typical? It's $100 on amazon which doesn't seem too bad. Any recommendations for hooks on the end? I like how these ones are with the big safety hook but don't know where to get them.
Yes. The M8 comes with 100' of 5/16" wire rope.



For a car hauler, I wouldn’t put more cable than 2x deck length or maybe 2x plus 10’.

Less cable is better for pull, cost, etc.

You should be able to get various hooks and safety hooks at any wire rope supplier.
That's a great idea. My trailer is 16ft- I'll look for a 50' cable.
I have a hard time finding a warn one - anyone recommend a good place to get winch cable? I am looking at westtechrigging at the moment.


Winch cable isn’t really special. Just wire rope. Tractor supply probably has it, as well as hardware stores. You just want to be sure to get a seated on thimble eye, although clamps could be used, they shouldn’t for most safe operation.


Try Grainger or as mentioned any rigging supply company or cargo control etc. If you're going with a short length, maybe even size up to 3/8" diameter too -



Expedition Leader
Is there a rebuild "kit" or do we just order parts individually?
I just ordered a la carte. What I bought (along with grease) was Warn part numbers:
  • 13848 x 2 (gear train gaskets)
  • 32408 x 2 (tie bars)
  • 13826 x 1 (thrust washer)
  • 13831 x 2 (drum bushing)
It was $30 + shipping for all of it. I did rewire my winch with a contactor, which was about $100 shipped from a shop in England. I used an Albright DC88 and did that work myself. I used an atypical connector for my winch, a plastic version of a circular military connector. So my electrical work isn't really directly applicable. You already have a contactor and will probably want to stick with Warn's connectors.


Well, I may have jumped the gun a bit.

So I figured, hey, i should probably test it to make sure it works..

well, the solenoids click but the motor doesn't move.

So i try to jump the motor directly - nothing happens. No spark. Ground is good, still no spark

So i pull the motor - and instead of the motor coming out all together - the portion that is connected to the rod that goes to the planetaries is stuck and the housing just comes out over it

Probably not a good thing. When I just spin the motor portion, even with the planetaries locked, the drum doesn't move. I don't think it is engaged - maybe it is frozen stuck just shy of the teeth engagement.

Also, can't get the cap off!

So, have it soaking in pb blaster currently.. I may be in over my head! This was supposed to be a "new" motor too!

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Expedition Leader
So the armature shaft stayed with the drum. That's not necessarily catastrophic. Getting the motor reassembled is kind of a pain, the brushes are spring loaded and you have to have 3 hands to hold everything in place as you slide the armature back in.

The motor shaft is supported by a bearing in the end cap. That may be seized and rusted to the armature shaft. The motor shaft is splined and mates with a coupler that sits inside the drum. Pretty sure that coupler is aluminum.


You should be able to remove the bolts that hold the two cross bars to the motor-side end plate. Then the whole side of the winch should pull away from the drum, perhaps with the coupler still on the shaft or not. Unless the coupler is exploded and jammed it should come out of the drum.

FWIW, those bolts into the bars were seized on my winch and ended up stripping, which is why I had to buy two replacements.



Thanks, I got the armature off - you were right it was frozen to the coupler.

I took out the brake - the shoes look OK - but the spring is really easily compressible - from reading online I thought it would be under high tension.

I called warn and they said they don't know if that is normal or not - the guy on the phone could only get me a phone number and offer me a $150 part... seems to be the theme here when calling warn...

Here's a video of it - anyone who has rebuilt one on here before that can share their experience?



New member
I have recently ripped apart my XD9000i for the nth time in the couple of years that I have owned it. When I originally bought it I pulled it apart including the break whcih caused it to un-clock and after reading the service manual (yes should have read it before tearing into it) I had to pull it back apart and replace the brake as it would not hold tension on a load. I ordered a replacement brake, pulled out the old one, cleaned the inside of the drum with a brush, re-greased everything using Klondike #2 EP Moly Tac grease (contacted Warn and that was fine grease to use, Aeroshell is hard to find in Canada and best I could find on Amazon was $75 a tube...ha). 3 tips I would give anyone doing this, 1 watch the way the slide gear goes back in as the wrong way and it won't free spool. 2 watch the way the thrust washer is oriented with the little ridge facing toward the drum and not the end housing and 3 don't use grease on the outer side of the slide gear, use a light motor oil as this makes free spooling work much better. The service manual is the best way to go and I wish I had found it earlier and paid more attention so I didn't need to pull it apart so many times.

I did find a 3 part video series on youtube of a rebuild and the guy used a hose clamp around the brake to hold the tension on it. He slid the brake part way out then put the clamp on then was able to remove it the rest of the way. This would allow for cleaning the drum and not needing to replace the brake itself.

I hope these tips help someone in the future.
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sorry for the radio-silence - i ended up regreasing the planetaries, getting 3/8" wire rope at 50ft, got a new brake, now the thing is basically brand new. pulling cars on to my hauler now. woohoo!


Expedition Leader
Finally got mine apart. Definitely needs some grease but no gears are broke so I don't know why it is jumping up and down. I wonder if the parts are the same for 6000 as the 8000. Warn hasn't been too helpful with a parts list. Definitely need new cross bars. Model MRV-B-7 N 16543 which I was told was an m6000 when I bought it used.
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