Voyager is Completed (Build Thread)

dstock

Explorer
Craigslist is an amazing place! Found 4 of these bad boys for $200!

View attachment 383311

Nice build so far! Just remember when you go to order the axle, the center hole on the wheel is going to be too small to fit over standard axle hubs. A 2 inch spacer will give you enough clearance but you need to factor that into your total axle length.
 

azscotts

Observer
Nice build so far! Just remember when you go to order the axle, the center hole on the wheel is going to be too small to fit over standard axle hubs. A 2 inch spacer will give you enough clearance but you need to factor that into your total axle length.

Yep...I've read many of these builds and all about the spacers/adapters used by everyone. I did some careful measuring, and in order to get the clearance from the trailer frame as well as the whole hub deal, it looks like 1.75" or 2" is the way to go.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
I think some other guys have done road side bed spray coatings. That stuff is pretty amazing but I would ask around to see if any bonding challenges exist for plywood use. Thats the stuff I would think of using first assuming the bond to plywood works ok.
 

dstock

Explorer
Yep...I've read many of these builds and all about the spacers/adapters used by everyone. I did some careful measuring, and in order to get the clearance from the trailer frame as well as the whole hub deal, it looks like 1.75" or 2" is the way to go.

Cool! 2" inch is the safest, a couple folks with 1.75" had to do some beating on their dust caps to make it work. I went with 2 inch from Adaptit USA, great folks to work with!
 

KTM-Todd

New member
I have used epoxy on a lot of projects for years and have been very happy with it. At a minimum I would do the edges of the plywood and also the knots on the bottom. When I build mine I'll do the full bottom, edges, and about 6" around the edges on the top, then bed liner over that. Epoxy is not cheap but neither would replacing the rotted floor. And you will find so many other uses for it on your build. I have been using West Systems for over 20 years, check out their web site lots of good ideas. I buy it from Discount Marine and get it in a few days.

Keep in mind this is over kill for us in the desert, nothing stays wet out here long with the dry air. But I came here from the Chicago area and have had seen plywood rot apart in a few years. it is costly and time consuming to fix.

For wood do you know about Peterman Lumber? You can get quality plywood and lumber from them, I haven't bought from them yet but have checked out the warehouse. They said small orders are no problem. I saw a guy loading up one sheet of plywood when I was leaving. The only problem is their hours are 7:00-4:00 weekdays but are open Saturday mornings.

Have you checked out any of the RV places on Apache Trail in Mesa and AJ? I know you can get all kind or new and recycled RV parts. I haven't checked it out yet and I just live 10 minutes from there.

It looks like you welded some flat bar on the tube to attach the walls to? If the wall will be flush with that and siding overlap you are good but if the wall and siding sit inside you will want to use a flashing don't count on chalk.

Looking great, whats you time frame to complete?

PS I had links to a bunch of the stuff listed above but the site doesn't allow links. Let me know if you need them.
 

azscotts

Observer
I have used epoxy on a lot of projects for years and have been very happy with it. At a minimum I would do the edges of the plywood and also the knots on the bottom. When I build mine I'll do the full bottom, edges, and about 6" around the edges on the top, then bed liner over that. Epoxy is not cheap but neither would replacing the rotted floor. And you will find so many other uses for it on your build. I have been using West Systems for over 20 years, check out their web site lots of good ideas. I buy it from Discount Marine and get it in a few days.

Keep in mind this is over kill for us in the desert, nothing stays wet out here long with the dry air. But I came here from the Chicago area and have had seen plywood rot apart in a few years. it is costly and time consuming to fix.

For wood do you know about Peterman Lumber? You can get quality plywood and lumber from them, I haven't bought from them yet but have checked out the warehouse. They said small orders are no problem. I saw a guy loading up one sheet of plywood when I was leaving. The only problem is their hours are 7:00-4:00 weekdays but are open Saturday mornings.

Have you checked out any of the RV places on Apache Trail in Mesa and AJ? I know you can get all kind or new and recycled RV parts. I haven't checked it out yet and I just live 10 minutes from there.

It looks like you welded some flat bar on the tube to attach the walls to? If the wall will be flush with that and siding overlap you are good but if the wall and siding sit inside you will want to use a flashing don't count on chalk.

Looking great, whats you time frame to complete?

PS I had links to a bunch of the stuff listed above but the site doesn't allow links. Let me know if you need them.

Thanks for the advice. I've got the bedliner on order and will be testing out rolling it on. I'm all about testing things before I do them on my builds.

I've used West Systems as well when I was building my first plane. I also used West Systems when I did the fiberglass work on the second plane. I love that stuff too. I still have a 5 gallon can of micro beads and flox which I'll be putting to use when I do the exterior finish on the camper. I usually buy from Aircraft Spruce.

Yes, the exterior wall will stick out slightly further than the angle that you see installed.

My ultimate plan is to take advantage of two layers of fiberglass on the exterior of the cabin and fill in with micro. Then I can sand smooth and get an excellent finish prior to painting.
 

azscotts

Observer
I was able to match drill the floor to the frame. Everything is matching up great. I couldn't resist clamping one of the wall frames up just to see what it would look like.

frame-test.jpg

The storage area below the galley has room for two of these tables and has room to spare on the sides. I laid out the table after marking the rear cabin bulkhead to make sure all my measurements were working out.

storage_test.jpg

Next I pulled up the floor boards and installed the tee nuts. The next part will be to seal and protect the road facing side of the floor prior to permanent installation.
 
Last edited:

azscotts

Observer
Things are moving along at a great pace.

Spent the weekend welding on the tabs for the spare-tire carrier and welded on mounts for the rear stabilizer jacks. I opted for tabs with a bolt-on option for the spare tire carrier in case we decided to change anything on the tongue area. This gives us some modularity as to what mounts up front in case we decide to move the spare tire to one side and put a storage box up front or something like that. The trailer frame is starting to look like the real deal.

The first two coats of primer and truck bedliner were then sprayed on the trailer frame. For the wood floors, we are sealing those with the roll-on version of the truck bedliner. Here it is with two coats on that as well.

sealing.jpg
 

azscotts

Observer
This thing is starting to get big. I installed all three of the floor panels and sealed those up. And, our 11-year old helper helped me match drill the frame walls. The front wall is permanently installed but the frame walls will be removed to install the tee nuts and install the interior walls.

3D_frame.jpg
 

Wyuna

Observer
It's coming together, it's good to see the young lad getting involved, he'll be loving it.

How heavy was the trailer frame?
 

azscotts

Observer
It's coming together, it's good to see the young lad getting involved, he'll be loving it.

How heavy was the trailer frame?

It isn't too heavy. I never weighed it when it was done, but two adult men were able to lift it and rotate it - so it can't be too heavy.
 

azscotts

Observer
Not a lot happened this week that makes it picture worthy...

- I took the sidewall frame off the bed and installed the t-nuts.
- Ordered my axles from Southwest Wheel; and just got an email saying they are shipped.
- My geek experiment for the "displays" in the trailer is completed (I'm keeping it on the down low until I unveil the trailer).
- Picked up two of the four cabinets for the interior. I'm just using the pre-made ones from Lowes. They're the right size and save me a bunch of time.
- Ordered a bunch of Grade 8 nuts, bolts, and washers for the attachment of the frames, stabilizer jacks, and spare tire carrier.
- Ordered the interior fabric.
- Picked up wood for the interior walls.
- Ordered a bunch of wire for electrical.
- Ordered the small reading bullet lights for the interior.
 

azscotts

Observer
My shipment of these SWEET reading lights arrived today! I'm pretty sure if I open these up, light will shine through them.

vents.jpg

Now, if you see floor vents that's because that's what arrived. I had ordered from Walmart.com for the first time. What was supposed to be in the box were some simple 12v LED reading lights.

Readinglights.jpg
 

azscotts

Observer
This weekend was a good one. The interior walls were bonded to the wall frames and I routed out the opening for the main cabin door. A flush trim bit made short work of the opening and matching up the interior wall to the trailer frame. Once the fabric for the interior arrives, the walls will get attached to the trailer and sealed permanently. I am using a combination of bolts and industrial adhesive.

interior_walls.jpg

I know it sounds a bit counter-intuitive to do this in the order I am doing, but I've got this build worked out on paper and it makes the most sense to put on the fabric now.

- After the fabric goes on, the walls will go up.
- The interior cabinets and bulkheads will then be added.
- Electrical will go in after that, then the insulation.
- I will then install the hardwood supports on the ceiling, cover the ceiling with fabric and install it.
- Then insulate the ceiling.
- The countertop will be installed the galley.
- The exterior walls, exterior roof, and fiberglass layers will be done at this stage.
- The galley hatch will then be glassed and installed.
- After glassing, finishing and painting, all the cabin and storage doors will be installed.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,527
Messages
2,875,538
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top