VOLVO TGB Expedition Camper

Outback

Explorer
I know we have a few members here who actually own Volvo 6X6 C304 and 4X4 C303 Ex Military vehicles. I would like to start a thread here on how they are planning on modifying there vehicles into Expedition campers. I would also like to hear from anyone who can help out with ideas and such. My plan is to within the next year purchase and start to build up one of these great vehicles. My shop is almost completed (after winter) and she will need her first land based vehile build up to break her in! Thanks for any input.
 

M.Bas

Adventurer
I have absolutely no idea how I'm going to fit everything in.
Have to wait on the official Dutch registration because of a weigth restriction (3500kg) that I'm allowed to drive.

So once I know the official weigth I know how much load capacity I have.
But I do know I'm allowed 10% overweigth (so max weigth is 3850) in The Netherlands because of an original max weigth of 4400/4500kg. But that amount of overweigth will get me into trouble in other countries.

Some quick ideas one needs to do:
-Sound proofing the cab
-Less noisy tires/more modern tires
-Sound proofing the cab
-Install some radio/cb/etc, good luck finding 24V equipment, or use an 24V->12V converter.
-Some more sound proofing
-Did I mention doing something about the noise?
 
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Outback

Explorer
I am very use to Sound deadoning cabs. I have a snowcat business and they are high vibration machines! One company I have come to love is DB Engineering. I will look up there web address in a bit. I am sure your country has a simular company. Another product that I will get to know soon is a spray in foam insulation. It helps to water proof plus reduces vibration and insulates. One plan I do have is to completely gut the entire interior cab walls. I will then spray on a bed liner type material from another company. This is equal to any spray in bed liner out there and costs me $139 to do the area of a standard 8 foot truck bed and sides. I have three kits waiting for one of my new snowcats this summer. Anyway my plan is to first spray the inside of the walls, ceiling and floor with this product. Then run all of my wiring. Once the wiring is done then spray the inner walls with the spray on foam insulation. then of course install new inner wall material. Not the peg board stuff! I have not looked for this material yet so I wont know until after I get the vehicle. I currently use a 1/4" thick board I use on the inside of my snowcats. Its pure white and is easy to clean up if needed. BUT this wont work for my color scheme. I most likely will use 1/4" ACX plywood covered in the same material I will cover the seats with. 100% cotton canvas type material. Not sure yet but thats a start at least. As far as electronics I will install a Panasonic Toughbook lap top and mounting stand in the cab. I will hook up a GPS sytem to this so I can use the screen as a GPS unit. A CB and 2 meter radio power supply for both run off a seperate battery source. Im sure someone has a better idea on the electronics but this is just a place to put ideas on screen for now. ANYONE who has a better idea(s) please type up!
 

Outback

Explorer
So far we have killed the main source of noise on these machines Vibration. By spraying the bedliner we have reduced the vibration created noise drastically. We have also sealed off the inside with a water tight seal. No leaks! Spraying in the Polyurethane foam we have now insulated the cab with about 1" of insulation. Thats about an R-7 worth of insulation! This will really help reduce in cab heat and cold and allow the RED DOT airconditioner and stock heater to work more efficiently. Thats at least a begining.
 

Outback

Explorer
TIRES! Now here is a subject we all love to talk about! I really like the new BFG GOODRICH new Mud T/As! BUT they dont last very long. I suspect about 20,000 miles. At least that is what I found on my 1 ton Dodge work truck. The older style BFG mud tas work really good. Not great like Super Swammpers but good. They also last a long time. GOODYEAR has a new MT comming out next month. I will try a set out to see how good they are off road and how long they last. Since this is a Overland vehicle with my family in it I dont plan on doing anything to crazy but still want the ability to transverse some serious obsticles if the need arises. The fact that it is a 6x6 will greatly help here especially when the axles are all locked up if needed. I think either s set of BFGs or GOODYEARs should do the trick. I hope the new GOODYAERs work better than the old style and last longer. I will most likely throw a set of these on first. Oh and load range E of course. I will also install a set of the Stuan internal beadlocks.
 

Outback

Explorer
As far as running at or above Gross Vehicle Weight Rating I would advise against it. Well at least over it that is. Weight is our biggest enemy. I carry in Mountain House dehydrated food. Yes you need water to make it but it still cuts down on weight and tastes great to boot!:wings: I like to run pretty much everything I run when I back pack plus a few extra items like a 2 burner stove and some extra pots and pans but not to much. Sometimes less is more. The weight I like to carry is water and fuel. Those are the two heaviest items we need to carry. Everything else needs to be as light as we can make it. This will help you as well when it comes to foriegn country rules for weight limits.
 

Outback

Explorer
To continue on with the build.

When I can I will dissasemble the leaf packs. I will bead blast the individual leafs and then ground and round the front and rear edges. There is a company that sells a paint that helps the leafs slide easy over each other. I will repaint them with this paint. By grinding and smoothing the edges this helps keep them from dragging on each other. This will help the vehicle ride smoother and articulate better. Every little bit helps. If the leafs are worn out or have lost there bow then I would get a new set made up at National Spring. After the springs, a nice set of new shocks. Bilstiens with remote resevoirs would work very nicely. From what I am told spare parts for Volvoes are made for 25 years after end of production of the vehicle. I am sure all the bushings are readily available. All the bushing will be replaced as well. I like real rubber bushings over polyurethane bushings or even the graphite impregnated poly bushings. The stock rubber ones allow more flex but do wear out faster. Giva and take.
 

M.Bas

Adventurer
A very good idea about reducing contact virbrations is to replace the hard plastic (I believe) spacers between the cab and the chassis by rubber spacers.

And about the rear leaf springs, there i LOTS of movement in the springs.
The springs themselves are not attached to the axles, that type of construction makes it easier for the rear boogie to go around corners. Each axle can move about an inch to the left and right measured from centered.
 

Outback

Explorer
Those hard plastic spacers were most likley a softer rubber spacer at one point in there life! I replaced some so called rubber valve stem guides on my 200 inline Ford and they were hard as plastic! The engine only had 223 hours on it at the time but was hardly ever used in it 20 year life. Rubber can get very hard over time unless it 100% Virgin rubber. Then it stay pliable all the time. YES So nice rubber spacers would really help quiet things down. Undercoating the entire bottom will also reduce the interior noise.
 

FotoValpen

Adventurer
Volvo L3314HT aka Valp (Puppy in Swedish)

Great thread!

Although I and my truck are in Stockholm Sweden I am born and raised in Doylestown, PA. How'd I get here? Answer: I married a Swedish nanny. :ylsmoke:

I am just off to bed so I will post more tomorrow but here is a link to my project as it is right now.
valp_sidan.jpg


[URL="http://web.me.com/teddsoost/Fotovalpen_2.0/Home.html[/URL]

/Tedd
 
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Christian

Adventurer
Hey guys!
Proud new Volvo owner from Denmark here!
Well we plan to make a completely new camper-box on our TGB1314, putting a diesel in it and so on.
The plastic connnections between the cabin and frame are plastic, not old rubber, remember this is an army truck from the 70'! And btw it is a gasser, so the engine runs pretty quiet originally.
 

Outback

Explorer
That makes sense that they are plastic. They wont rott or wear out. BUT rubber ones for our purpose I think would be better. BUT thats a small matter to deal with. When the cab is off then they should be replaced. If the cab is never taken off or body then no big deal. Welcome to the thread. Have any more pics of your rig yet? I love the scetch you have on the other forum!
 

Christian

Adventurer
That makes sense that they are plastic. They wont rott or wear out. BUT rubber ones for our purpose I think would be better. BUT thats a small matter to deal with. When the cab is off then they should be replaced. If the cab is never taken off or body then no big deal. Welcome to the thread. Have any more pics of your rig yet? I love the scetch you have on the other forum!

Hi!
No, not yet... I thought I had found one for yu, but it went really fast, even though the papaerwork was lost...
I like the drawings too, but would love stating to build it!
 

Outback

Explorer
Hi Christian,
Thanks. If you find one PM me. I also know what you mean about starting it. I just started to layout my workshop / 4 car garage I will be building this Spring / Summer. After that my Aktiv Snow Master snowcat will go in for a frame off restoration project. My Aktiv was also made in Sweden!:victory:
 

Outback

Explorer
Maybe one of our Eurpean friends can help me here. I am looking for the diesel conversion company that mates a Mercedes Diesel engine into a Volvo C303 C304. What Mercedes Diesel engine is it and how much is the conversion kit. Thanks.
 

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