? - Voltage Regulation when Charging an LFP Battery

john61ct

Adventurer
Yes great unit.

Just mount it in a well ventilated location if actually pushing lots of amps through it continuously.

Can stack in parallel if more current desired.
 

shade

Well-known member
Yes great unit.

Just mount it in a well ventilated location if actually pushing lots of amps through it continuously.

Can stack in parallel if more current desired.
I'm sure I could work around the clunky interface & manual, and the 60A model would probably keep my alternator happy.

As far as its functionality, my main concerns are whether it allows current to flow between start & house batteries, and fan noise. I don't think fan noise will be much of an issue for the short charge times I'd have, but I want to keep the batteries isolated.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Current only flows one way.

If you use its built-in VSR to turn on/off, only while (any) charge source is active.

If you wire switch to IGN then only alternator charges.

If you switch manually, it is possible to drain the batt on source side.
 

shade

Well-known member
Good to know. Thanks.

I think I'll go forward with my system plan, but leave the alternator charging side incomplete until I see what else Victron has in mind. If they're smart, they'll have a product comparable to the BB1260 in features & price, since nothing else seems to match it. If they don't, then I'll probably have a BB1260 hanging next to the Victron gear.
 

Photobug

Well-known member
I'm sure I could work around the clunky interface & manual, and the 60A model would probably keep my alternator happy.

As far as its functionality, my main concerns are whether it allows current to flow between start & house batteries, and fan noise. I don't think fan noise will be much of an issue for the short charge times I'd have,

This is for the DC-DC charger? If so won't it only be running while the engine is on? If so I think any fan noise will be a mute point.

I look forward to you finishing this project and let us all know how much upgrading to LiFePo costs. I am likely going to go FLA for my house battery and a small LiFePo for my portable power box.
 

shade

Well-known member
This is for the DC-DC charger? If so won't it only be running while the engine is on? If so I think any fan noise will be a mute point.

I look forward to you finishing this project and let us all know how much upgrading to LiFePo costs. I am likely going to go FLA for my house battery and a small LiFePo for my portable power box.
One of the reviews said the fan sounds like a small hair dryer, and it'll be housed inside my truck cab. It's louder than a typical car inside, but I think I'll still hear that fan. Fortunately, the fan adjusts to the demand, and it won't be running much anyway.

The big price is the LFP battery, of course. If best practices are used, an LFP should outlast a LA battery by years and end up costing less, if the charts are to be believed. The discharge and especially the charge rate offered by LFP can be easily overlooked, but I think it's significant enough that it can change how power is used and managed.

Past that, most everything else in my plan could be useful with any good charging system.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
This is for the DC-DC charger? If so won't it only be running while the engine is on?
DC-DCs are commonly used with alternators, but can be used to front-end a LFP bank to enable precise charge control from any and all charge source types.

Thus saving a lot of money, no need to upgrade all that infrastructure.

Especially handy when the bank is being used in multiple contexts, e.g. trailer vs truck, boat, off-grid home, etc.
 

Photobug

Well-known member
One of the reviews said the fan sounds like a small hair dryer, and it'll be housed inside my truck cab. It's louder than a typical car inside, but I think I'll still hear that fan. Fortunately, the fan adjusts to the demand, and it won't be running much anyway.

The big price is the LFP battery, of course.

Did not know it was going to be in the cab. My truck is big enough to keep everything in the back. I usually ignore when things are said to be loud. I drive a diesel it is already loud but the fuel pump I added can be heard over the diesel.

While I think the battery is going to be expensive, once you add all the other pieces if you follow your first picture on this post, the other components might be close to the battery costs. This thread makes me want to buy Victron stock.
 

shade

Well-known member
I could spend less in many ways, but the end result would be ... less. :)

Really though, the differences if I went with LA would be no VE. Bus BMS ($118). Everything else would be useful for a LA battery, too. I could strip it down further and eliminate the charge/load disconnects ($250), but they serve a purpose with any battery system. Other than that, I'd have to start dropping to less expensive components that may not be on par with the Victron parts they replaced. That's not to say that a fine system can't be made for less, but that's not what I'm after.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
Dont matter if your LFP or Lead, once you got this much money into a battery bank.. your still investing in expensive charge and monitoring systems either way.. otherwise, your wallet is going to regret you just sticking your head in the sand and hoping for the best..
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Before buying a sterling read over here. Even the newer units cannot handle the rated current without cutting back due to thermal limits.
 
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shade

Well-known member
Before buying a sterling read over here. Even the newer units cannot handle there rated current without cutting back due to thermal limits.
Thanks. I've been digging through other forums looking for problems.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Just like an alt, the max rating is not for continuous output, more likely the input spec.

And as I said, ventilation / temperature is critical, the self-protection through current reduction, "hiccup mode" is of course a good thing. So many devices just burn when things get too hot.
 

shade

Well-known member
Just like an alt, the max rating is not for continuous output, more likely the input spec.

And as I said, ventilation / temperature is critical, the self-protection through current reduction, "hiccup mode" is of course a good thing. So many devices just burn when things get too hot.
I wonder if Sterling could've mitigated heat issues by allowing use of heavier wiring so it could act as a heat sink.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
The key is good ventilation.

A better sink would transfer heat direct to the outside, finned geometry.

Sticking it in a closed up space is NG
 

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