jacobconroy
Hillbilly of Leisure
I've been using a National Luna Power pack for a couple of years in my JK. However, the voltage disconnect is not variable and the unit is very big. Also, I have a two-bank NOCO charger in the rig. When I plug into shore power at home for battery maintenance I have to manually turn off the power switch on the Power Pack to isolate the batteries. Kindof a pain.
Since I'm always fighting for space I've decided to build my own system from scratch in an effort to move the group 31 deep cycle lower into the space behind the passenger seat. The first step is a variable line voltage disconnect. My requirements and/or druthers would be:
Since I'm always fighting for space I've decided to build my own system from scratch in an effort to move the group 31 deep cycle lower into the space behind the passenger seat. The first step is a variable line voltage disconnect. My requirements and/or druthers would be:
- That is somewhat small and doesn't cost a million bucks.
- That the circuit is normally closed between the engine and coach batteries (assuming that the voltage is above the threshold).
- That it has a remote disconnect function (I plan to use a 120 volt triggered SPDT relay to disconnect the batteries automatically when plugging in to shore power for maintenance/charging OR a diode and 12 volt relay to disconnect the batteries when voltage is sensed from the NOCO charger, but am not sure if this will work).
- That is has a remote disconnect override function (in case I need to charge the engine battery in an emergency).
- That the disconnect has voltage trigger options between 12.0 and 12.6 volts (I'd like to play with the exact voltage).
- It would be nice to have a remote voltage display of some sort for both batteries
- What is the general opinion of the correct disconnect voltage? I may not need a variable unit if it has the voltage setting that I need (yet to be determined).
- What amperage rating should the disconnect be? I think I have a 160 amp alternator.