VanKrishna: Operation K.I.S.S.

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
It's standard on the diesels and an option on gassers.

Getting it out is awkward, but the design is well thought out.
 

boardrider247

Weekend warrior anarchist
The box is supported by 4 bolts on the frame. 2 are in round holes (your pic#3) and need to be removed. The other 2 are in slotted (your pic #2) holes, loose the bolts, slide the box and it comes out.

Those bolts are a excellent candidate for anti seize when you re install them;)
 

Jb1rd

Explorer
Thanks guys, that is awesome. Does the UJOINT or another tray offer a better solution for the battery box or should I replace with a no maintenance/gel cell? How do I find out what that thing is tied to? Sorry y'all should know by now I am an electrical deeet da dee!!!:drool:
 

Jb1rd

Explorer
Here is what I found when I took the battery out!! It wasn't until I got it all apart that I wondered if I was going to be able to start the van as I have no idea how this thing is tied in with the other battery. Thankfully it fired up and no explosions So what exactly does that battery provide power to? Can I leave it out until I get a better mounting system?

c9d5cf87e550cbaf786cdc584e763186.jpg


After a little wipe down
cbf9cf7ba7a0557d0ccc4840b034ab2c.jpg


The tray it was in
a237b635e4a363a4b41d581a657434e7.jpg

fbfdc8bb3806cb6c11bbb1fe3c666923.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

bknudtsen

Expedition Leader
Those batteries are tied together. It is highly recommended to use the exact same battery as the one under the hood. Do not mix AGM and flooded acid in the same circuit.

That mounting box is pretty much the best solution for that location.
 
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Jb1rd

Explorer
Thanks BK,
Since I have an Optima Red Top under the hood are you saying I should have a Red Top there too, or just another battery of the same cold cranking amps? Still not sure what it powers, is there a way to find out/test?
 

Jb1rd

Explorer
Thanks again BK!!! That thread had some good info, today I am going to trace the wiring from the frame rail to the engine and see what I find. I am wiring up a temp relay for my front fog lights until I get my SPOD or S-P ordered (spending that ear marked money on necessary engine maintenance/preventative care) the bonus is I will have an open/bonus relay once I install the main unit. :sombrero:

Going with this for my main electrical

http://www.autoanything.com/lights/...Jgwt8ut4IhFCfVgJXchwMimjOkpQKv1I08aAi4m8P8HAQ
 

bknudtsen

Expedition Leader
You're welcome! I am guessing that if your van still runs with that second battery removed, then you have an isolator relay under the battery tray in the engine compartment.

I like the Switch Pros a lot. I put an sPod in Vandiana and it was super easy to do/use. What I liked about the sPod is that all wiring is run to the unit and terminates in the box, whereas the SP looks like it has a big pig tail that you splice into. SP switch panel is nicer though.
 

Jb1rd

Explorer
Ok fellas, here is the vacuum canister that showed up, where do I plumb this in? This is for the climate control work around to get my dash/floor vents working again, so far I got it to a partial functioning status but the air only blows through the selected vent for a few moments before defaulting back to the defrost mode. The canister is supposed to helpthis but I am not sure how to plumb it in.
10ea68d0072d6062febb4752ca4d5bfd.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Raul

Adventurer
Ok fellas, here is the vacuum canister that showed up, where do I plumb this in? This is for the climate control work around to get my dash/floor vents working again, so far I got it to a partial functioning status but the air only blows through the selected vent for a few moments before defaulting back to the defrost mode. The canister is supposed to helpthis but I am not sure how to plumb it in.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very typical. Under load, open throttle, your engine doesn't generate vacuum. The reservoir should provide it then. You may have just the check valve defective, but it is a pain to replace. Find a place on the passenger foot-well or under the passenger airbag to place your new reservoir. On the passenger foot-well you will find a little hose (1/8"?) that goes trough the firewall. that hose comes form the reservoir on the engine bay and goes to the vacuum controls. Unplug the hose and install a new hose on the firewall rubber connector, a check valve and the new reservoir. Plug the hose that goes to the controls on the second nipple of the reservoir. If your reservoir only has one nipple, you will need a 3 way check valve. On the IN you plug the hose coming form the engine and on the two OUTs you plug the control hose and the reservoir.

Hopefully I was able to make myself clear. If not I can try to make pictures of my set up.
 

Jb1rd

Explorer
PCM Issues

On my AS I had to R&R my PCM, I ended up sending it to a reman facility in FL and it fixed my engine shudder/stutter. My new van has a similar yet subtler thing happening and so I figured I might need to do the same thing. I could not remember exactly how I removed my PCM last time, only that it was a lot simpler when I was shown the proper way than what I was trying to do on my own, so off to YouTube I went and came across this video and decided to try it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM
I am trying it now and will report my findings to see if it might be a viable option
 

Jb1rd

Explorer
Update

The PCM flash seemed to make the shift points a bit more crisp but I am still having the weird shuddering so the PCM is coming out and sent off to the reman company to have it refurbed, I was very pleased with the previous one so at least I don't feel like I am just throwing money at parts. From what I gathered the last time the circuit boards in the PCM in these vans tend to swell causing abnormal operation, being that this van is 13 years old with 107k on the clock and well loved in the desert south west it is probably due for a little love and attention.
 

Raul

Adventurer
Thanks Raul,
Pictures would be great, I am def a visual learner!!

This is the grommet where the vacuum line comes from the reservoir through the fire wall
IMG_8900.JPG

On this other picture you can see my reservoir (originally for a BMW) and the check valve. The red end was connected originally to the tube coming out of the firewall. you are just adding an extra tank and check valve in between. Once connected, you tug the reservoir up the footwell.
IMG_8901.JPG
 
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