Using Blue Sea 187-Series Circuit Breaker/Switch instead of a battery switch

[J!m]

I don’t think I’d use a breaker as a switch. The effectiveness of it as a breaker when you need it may be compromised.

Yes you can use them as switches but often does not seem like a wise idea to me.

You might want to consider low voltage coil contractors. Then you can also do a slick little momentary button to engage, with a second to disengage. Hide the heavy hardware and have a slick user interface.

 

[robepa]

Yeah, I may have to switch out the charger, as you say the Pro Mainer will do 14.1 bulk/13.8 float or 14.6 bulk/ 13.4 float and not the 14.4 bulk/13.6 float as recommended. I plan on figuring out how long it takes to charge the bank vs SOC and combine that with a TP link switch that I can schedule/remote turn on the charger when needed.

 

[robepa]

I don’t think I’d use a breaker as a switch. The effectiveness of it as a breaker when you need it may be compromised.

Yes you can use them as switches but often does not seem like a wise idea to me.

You might want to consider low voltage coil contractors. Then you can also do a slick little momentary button to engage, with a second to disengage. Hide the heavy hardware and have a slick user interface.

I emailed Blue Sea and they said it is fine to use as a switch.

 

[john61ct]

All charger sources should allow user custom setpoints for LFP.

Very few allow No for Float, many are happy to just set for 3.1Vpc on the theory that no current flow is sufficient.

If you really want to just completely isolate tge bank when Full, external controls are needed to turn off the charger or cut off its source.

But really a separate topic deserving of a new thread.

 

[robepa]

Thanks for the feedback, the Pro Mainer is going back and I am going to get a Xantrex Freedom XC or HFS charger/inverter combo. I still need to get a fuse/disconnect on the AC in. I am working out the layout in my trailer an making wiring.

What is the difference between the XC and HFS aside from form factor and 5 charging amps?

 

[john61ct]

Again, you need tunable voltage to get longevity from LFP.

 

[robepa]

Again, you need tunable voltage to get longevity from LFP.

Reading the owners manual the Xantrax lets you change all of the charging parameters from 12 to 18 V, so if I understand you correctly this charger should do it. Battle Born lists that they have setting for this charger as well.

 

[Bayou Boy]

Have you called Battle Born to see what charger they recommend? Most Lithium manufacturers have a preferred charger that works perfectly.

 

[dwh]

Have you called Battle Born to see what charger they recommend? Most Lithium manufacturers have a preferred charger that works perfectly.

They have a bunch listed on their site that they've tested. According to their rep that stopped by here and chatted with us, it's not that complicated. The resting voltage of their battery fully charged is 13.6v, so a charge profile of...

Bulk to 14.6v [EDIT: Oops. Should say 14.4v]
No absorb
Float at any voltage below 13.6v

...will do.

 

[john61ct]

I have yet to see a cell maker or gear vendor specify healthy charge setpoints, they all go way too high.

If you only want rated cycle lifetimes, happy with under a decade's use, follow those specs.

But you'll get **much** longer lifespan by charging more gently, say 13.6-13.8V and never letting discharge get below 12V.

 

[dwh]

Horse's mouth...

https://www.expeditionportal.com/fo...battle-born-through-d250s-b2b-charger.173120/

 

[john61ct]

Confused, what "horse" do you mean?

Post #3

> Hmmmm. The purpose of the CTEK D250S is to raise the voltage of your vehicle to 14.xV for an AGM battery. Some Toyotas run at 13.9v. Why would you pay extra to boost the voltage of your vehicle when your battery only wants 13.8v?

 

[dwh]

Confused, what "horse" do you mean?

We were speaking of BattleBorn batteries. The horse I mean is rep from BattleBorn. He very clearly and in detail laid out exactly how their BMS works and exactly what should be done to charge them.

It's all well and good to advise differently and say that it will make the batteries last longer...but they haven't been on the market long enough for that to be proven.

 

[john61ct]

Ah. Yes I'll stay far away from such drop-ins myself.

BBs specifically due to limited charge / discharge (especially) rates, internal BMS design.

Victron's Trillium series, maybe after a few years of use reports from forum members I trust.

The unproven longevity to me means lower avoid-the-shoulders charge voltages (and currents) are even more critical.

But then note I shoot for decades' longevity, many thousand cycles past mfg rating, those happy with the vendor specs should of course feel free.

 

[dwh]

But then note I shoot for decades' longevity, many thousand cycles past mfg rating, those happy with the vendor specs should of course feel free.

Yea, well...that's something to shoot for I suppose. It might even be achievable in FBOs or large powered yachts. I don't see that as a realistic goal for systems under regular hard use, such as by overlanders, full-timers, or blue water sailors.