Upgrading rear accessory power in a JL Wrangler

Imbuere

New member
I plan on running a single positive 4 AWG cable from the battery to the rear area where there's currently a cigarette lighter. The rating of this plug is only 15 amp and I worry about it's long term viability as my needs expand. I also like to have things hard wired rather than cigarette plugs, so I'll be replacing everything with Anderson Power Pole connectors. I plan on using this for the main source of power on the rear and inside of the cabin. I hope to find a good body ground for the negative cable rear the location I will put a Blue Sea systems fuse block for distribution. I can use the cigarette lighter as an ignition lead on a relay for anything that I want to be ignition only.

Any drawback of this? I feel I know just enough about wiring to be dangerous and am a tiny bit worried about screwing something up.
 

Superduty

Adventurer
Install an adequate fuse close to the battery for the wire that runs to the back. Ensure the 4awg is not up against any sharp edges or rub points. Put it in a high quality split loom.
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
While you can ground to the body, I personally chose to spend the extra and run a matching cable back to the battery, ensuring adequate and testable grounding. I recommend this, as grounds seem to cause lots of problems when they loosen or corrode, and your body ground relies on braided straps exposed to the elements.
 

shade

Well-known member
Install an adequate fuse close to the battery for the wire that runs to the back. Ensure the 4awg is not up against any sharp edges or rub points. Put it in a high quality split loom.
And heat, like the exhaust system or hot parts of the transmission.

If crossing the vehicle from the side of the battery to the desired final location, making that move in the engine bay is often for the best.

Marine grade cable would be my first choice, with quality terminals installed using good crimpers.


 

Imbuere

New member
While you can ground to the body, I personally chose to spend the extra and run a matching cable back to the battery, ensuring adequate and testable grounding. I recommend this, as grounds seem to cause lots of problems when they loosen or corrode, and your body ground relies on braided straps exposed to the elements.

Based on this advice, I purchased enough wire to run a matching ground back to the battery. Thanks!


And heat, like the exhaust system or hot parts of the transmission.

If crossing the vehicle from the side of the battery to the desired final location, making that move in the engine bay is often for the best.

Marine grade cable would be my first choice, with quality terminals installed using good crimpers.



I'm totally on board with the marine grade components. Everything will be tinned, all quality waterproof connectors, cable sheaths, etc. I might not drop the money to make this the same level of engineering you's see on something like a $100M fighter jet, but I believe you can get 80% of the way there for 5% the cost and that's what I plan to do.

Thanks for the link, that's a great resource.
 

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