Unimog Camper under construction

Iain_U1250

Explorer
I think you are too close.. My nerves are going just looking at that!! If one of the old tyres had let go at this point, it would have been Game Over! That's pretty impressive it has to be said.. I would never have put it staying upright at that angle. Well done.
Yes, if one of the downhill tyres let go with a bang, I think may have been in trouble. When they failed out on the road, it did take about 30 seconds for them to go down. It looks pretty scary, and I have to admit I was concerned, but also was confident enough to drive out.

That's why I went with the 90mm offset wheels (stock 161mm). Tipover angle is about 2.2deg greater with the wider track (1970mm, too wide for comfortable running on CSR etc).
Charlie
Always a balance on any rig, a wider track is more stable, but then the tyres will be out of the rut so even higher uphill.


Looks scary, yes - but as you know, as long as the center of gravity is within the footprint of the tires you´re good - seems to me there´s room for more leaning (based on my estimate on the center of gravity of the Mog)
I think there was another 5 degrees before it fell over, but it would not take much for it to go horribly wrong. My estimates of the CG are just below the handle on the rear. That also depends on how much fuel we carry, whether I have all the tools etc. If we had the extra spare tyre and 90lt of fuel on the roof, then we would have been in trouble.


An old school KISS way rockcrawlers have prepped for such things is a small winch at each axle ends whose sole purpose was to compress down the suspension on the uphill side. Granted saw this done more for creasting steep rock faces to keep from flopping/EndO..ing backward but concpet applies same here.
Sounds interesting, I found some turnbuckles that would do the same thing, but would need to weld on some eyes/brackets for it to work.

your wife's a clever lass, hopping out of the truck to "take the video " :yikes:
There was no way she was getting in the truck :)
 

Sitec

Adventurer
Yup, I commend Trish for keeping her cool while videoing! No real 'eeks' or 'shrieks'.. All very calm! This Mog didn't fare so well! :)
image.jpg
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
It takes a bit to rattle her nowadays :)



I think there was only minor damage to that one, all the tyres etc were props to stop if from going further. Would have been very scary.
 

The Yak

Observer
Yup, I commend Trish for keeping her cool while videoing! No real 'eeks' or 'shrieks'.. All very calm! This Mog didn't fare so well! :)
View attachment 372107

By coincidence, I have just been looking at the particulars of this Mog in the photo, as it is currently for sale on ebay. Located in the UK.

Cannot link, look for Unimog 4x4 Expedition Camper.
 

Coachgeo

Explorer
Sounds interesting, I found some turnbuckles that would do the same thing, but would need to weld on some eyes/brackets for it to work.
The advantage of the winches was they had them permanently set up with switches in the cab. They could sinch it down without getting out. Not sure if they could reverse the cable back to normal lenght without getting out though. Might have to get thru the bad spot first then pull over and spool it out to normal? Figure they did limited the total lenght of the cable to be no more than their suspension limiter straps?
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
A little winch on both sides of the roof would be one way. Something little like this would be enough. They have remotes controls and are $130 each.

 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
Just finished fitting our new bike rack, going to be great to take our bikes with us on our next trip.




It is very strong I can do pull ups on the end of the rack and it doesn't move.



We can still open the boot, and other compartments.



I can remove a pin and the bike rack fold down to put the inner bike on, and then I just lift the outer bike on. The whole thing can come off in about 5 minutes, but I can lock it onto the truck as well.

 
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BjarniThor

New member
Hi Ian, a question about the exhaust system of your truck. Can you describe /and or show some pictures how it is routed all the way back?
Is it located inside the chassis rails ? Where did you find the space to install a muffler?
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
Here are a few photos, the exhaust pipe is 3" and now I have no muffler, and there is not much difference in sound inside the truck at all. The muffler was right at the rear.

I have changed the route quite a bit, mainly because since I have certified the truck for passengers in the rear, the exhaust has to exit at the very rear of the truck. I also wanted the exhaust high up inside the body to keep it clear of any dry grass.

Here are some photos from our blog.

This is the route of the dump pipe after the turbo. The first part of the exhaust is ceramc coated inside and out to limit the heat transfer to the cab. I have also wrapped it with ceramic tape as extra heat insulation.



The exhaust then goes close up to the camper floor.



The muffler used to be right at the rear, high up above the rear axle. Now I have all the air tanks there, but there is still enough room for the 3" pipe.




The left rear storage box is 4" smaller than the one on the right.



I direct the exhaust down, it keeps the soot from the rear door.
 

BjarniThor

New member
In relation to this, for the OM352/366 engines tuned to 200-250 HP, I wonder what is the optimum exhaust pipe diameter?
I would think 3" is a minimum, but would something be gained with a 4" ? Maby in your case space at the rear would
be to restricted for a 4" ?
How is the sound levels from the outside having no muffler?
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
A 3" is good for over 300hp, anything bigger is just for bragging rights. People are getting over 500hp from turbo cars with 3" exhausts so our 200hp should be easy. Noise wise, my wife says she can't hear much of a difference when I drive past.

My fuel pump is set for "Over 185hp" according to the injection pump shop, that's at at 10 PSI boost, and I am now currently running 16PSI boost so should be a bit better than that. I have a water cooled ball bearing turbo, intercooler and a matched and calibrated set of bigger injectors. My pre turbo EGT gets up to around 620 Deg C, so pretty comfortably within reasonable limits. I also have the oil squirters to cool the pistons, without them, you should not run more than 160hp as the pistons will melt.

Getting a OM352/366 to over 200hp requires a lot of work, first off you need the bigger fuel pump with the 10mm plungers, and even bigger injector nozzles. I think you also need a new camshaft, and a bigger turbo, and inter cooler along with the bigger air cleaner. Then you need to upgrade the transmission from the UG3/40 to the heavy duty one UG3/65 from the U1850 or bigger mogs with the extra oil cooler. I get worried about over-stressing my transmission on long uphill climbs due to the extra power I'm putting through it.
 
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