Unimog 1300L composite body camper - replacing damp plywood and re-sealing

Gandalftheblack

New member
Hey guys,

I found a bargain a couple of weeks ago and managed to snag this unimog 1300L 1979 with a custom made composite (plastic, foam, plywood) camper body.

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It had been sitting outside for around a decade and the water had made its way into the back of the camper and has caused the plywood component of the composite foam panels to rot.

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I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how and if I could replace the plywood on the interior. I also need to fix leaks on seams of the exterior where the panels meet the edge peices. Any reccomendations on sealing methods and products would be very much appreciated as I have no experience with this type of camper body construction.

Here is what it looked like before it went into storage (if you could call it that)
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I still haven’t decided wether I’m happy with the size or looks of the camper body... what do you guys think?

Thanks!
 

CragMog

Member
The benefit of the U1300L is it's small enough to get into tight places yet big enough to carry a decent load. I'd suggest you use what you have while fixing the mechanicals and then replace the box once you've decided what you want to use it for. I used the ambulance box for the first 5 years and had a ton of fun. Then I designed what I wanted based on my driving and living style. Too small for many, but just perfect for my wife and I for weekends and month long outback trips. The lowering roof reduces windage and helps when driving through forests.
 

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Gandalftheblack

New member
The benefit of the U1300L is it's small enough to get into tight places yet big enough to carry a decent load. I'd suggest you use what you have while fixing the mechanicals and then replace the box once you've decided what you want to use it for. I used the ambulance box for the first 5 years and had a ton of fun. Then I designed what I wanted based on my driving and living style. Too small for many, but just perfect for my wife and I for weekends and month long outback trips. The lowering roof reduces windage and helps when driving through forests.

That’s really nice, I love the way the roof raises. I would like to make a more compact box. Can you share any more photos?
 

RiderBloke

Observer
If that is mold on the roof inside and in other places you have a problem on your hands. You would do best to totally remove all inside wood to start with or maybe even build a whole new box and just toss that one. Be careful with mold.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Joe917

Explorer
The box looks way too big for the chassis. The amount of work involved to try to save it is not worth it just going by those pics. I would write off the box and start again.
 

Victorian

Approved Vendor : Total Composites
With that amount of mould and health risk involved, I would seal that sucker off and dispose it... Black mould can seriously harm you.
 
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grizzlyj

Tea pot tester
We had a camper that started as a U1300l with overcab bed with a similar overall size to that. If you have a frame within the walls that might be too heavy, and it maybe looks a bit too close to the cab roof once axle twisted up but you can test that. Even with a light turbo ours couldn't maintain 55mph maybe because of the fabulous aerodynamics?
The mould could be a result of zero ventilation rather than leaks? But I have no knowledge of the health risks mentioned above.
 

C p weinberger

Active member
Some things to think about..
How will you know you have removed all the mold? With that small of an enclosed area that you will be sleeping inhaling mold spores is very dangerous.
Maybe The most economic way to proceed forward is to physically remove all the damaged material to determine how big the problem is. You have to go beyond the mold into clean undamaged areas. My guess is you will likely have to demo everything inside structure to identify the mold areas. The physical destruction of the interior is not that costly But you must wear appropriate protective material, especially breathing. With that said..
Despite wide held beliefs mold can be killed with chemicals it must be physically removed. Painting with Kilz is a load of dung. Roughly 20% of people have an unknown hypersensitivity to the typical chemicals used in mold remediation. This unknown affliction is activated when occupants return to their home that has been cleaned by remediation teams. The previously unknown hypersensitivity is now activated and any exposure to even low level amounts of The chemicals causes severe reactions. This actually leaves some people unable to live in their homes.
Do you have any larger used RV dealers in your area, stop by and asked guys in back how they deal with water damages..Those big rigs are known to leak like selves along the roof and experience a lot of interior damage. There must be pretty experienced people out there who repair it.
Why was vehicle parked for so long? Budget for a lot of maintenance issues on the vehicle itself..
 

Jostt

Adventurer
Nice truck as a base to make a camper, for me the point first is to see how it was buildid in its moment, because if is house made you can find many unknowed surprises when you dissasembly the halls, so some times is beter to take all for you is usefull and make a new box, in my case , the box was the cheapest staff , the expensive part is all the things you fit inside, and the cost of the hand...almost two years , part time , to build it.
I dont like the bed over cab design for this cain of trucks because I thing it kills the pour aerodinamic it has, as is normall, but whit it is even worst, and 79....as mine are not too powerfull( I have also turbo fited on my 79) and also tilt the cabine is not posible, so some mantinance can be a mass, big mass...you can see details of my box building in my post, good luck in your way
 
I agree emphatically with the above comment about the luton box blocking access to engine. That alone would make me trash the box.
 

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