Ulysses the Uhaul - Strategic Surf Assault Vehicle project build

DzlToy

Explorer
There are basically two types of sound "control". The first is a product to absorb sound, as in a recording studio or a movie theater, where you are trying to minimise echo/reverb. You can cover every inch of your wall in eggcrate if you want, but it wont do much to eliminate sound from the outside. Foam is typically light and airy, fairly good at insulating, bad at BLOCKING sound.

To block sound, you need mass, think concrete basement, bunker, cave, etc., You can scream to the top of your lungs and sound does not get out through the earth or concrete walls. Ironically, they are very good insulators as well and can act as heat sinks to help manage temperature, but are obviously not usable in any way for an RV application.

The best "lightweight" product you are going to find for use as a sound deadener or blocker is a mass laminated vinyl product (MLV). Everyone knows "Dynamat" and while they are more of a marketing company and certainly not the top of the game, The idea is sound, no pun intended. A good quality MLV that you can actually see some results from, is going to be about one pound per square foot.

On the foam, you want a closed cell foam for inside the wall use. Phenolic foam has an excellent R-value (upto R-7 per inch) but can be expensive and somewhat difficult to find (not carried in home improvement stores)

Liquid or semi-liquid sound and heat control products such as Spectrum's Sound Sludge and LIzard Skin (heat and sound) are also viable options.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Very cool build. I was thinking about your roll-up door dilemma and an idea popped in my head to suggest that would still keep the ordinary look on the outside. Basically, take the rollup door components and attach them to a solid on-piece subframe with a pivot connection at the top (think sort of like the old style single panel garage doors, not the roll up panel style). This would help with the issue of where the rollup door currently travels into the interior space and create a nice canopy when parked. Anyway, just stirring up the imagination a bit. Keep up the cool build.

oooh that's a nice idea. Pneumatic or screw-drive actuator would make it real nice. And again, people see what they expect to see. You wouldn't even have to keep the real roll-up door. Just make a solid lightweight skin panel and put the graphic of a roll-up door on it. Replete with wear marks etc. I high res picture of the real door before you dismantle it, printed and applied to the new skin. Wouldn't cost a whole lot and you could attach bug screening fabric to the edges, rolled up and snapped to the interior, available to drop down and viola, instant pavilion.

Sound, I posted an experiment in another topic, cost less than $25 and attenuated a lot of the road noise from the rear wheel wells of my Suburban. It's peel and stick butyl rubber window flashing -
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...wer-lines-under-vehicle?p=1848235#post1848235
 
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tamangel

Adventurer
The roof on the other hand gets so hot on even a cloudy day that you can't touch it. I was thinking of a shade covering the roof outside and insulation inside. Thanks for sharing your build. The wealth of knowledge on this site is awesome.

might not work for your application, but I always liked the Land Rover Tropical roof concept.. provides that air space that might keep your roof cooler. Although, as mentioned, a big rack with a floor on top of the roof does the same thing and gives another platform/deck for whatever..

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/29699-Tropical-Roofs-(Double-Roof)

Mike W

*******
 

mexicanfooddude

New member
Thanks everyone for the latest input.

The best "lightweight" product you are going to find for use as a sound deadener or blocker is a mass laminated vinyl product (MLV). Everyone knows "Dynamat" and while they are more of a marketing company and certainly not the top of the game, The idea is sound, no pun intended. A good quality MLV that you can actually see some results from, is going to be about one pound per square foot.

This is excellent, thanks for the recommendation. I may put some of this in the cab... the engine noise in the cab above the 7.3 IDI is out of control. I'll have to give some thought to the best application for the box... may have to just deal with the noise factor. Most of the time we're boondocking anyways, and those few times we're going stealth in a neighborhood, we just stay real quiet :)

might not work for your application, but I always liked the Land Rover Tropical roof concept.. provides that air space that might keep your roof cooler. Although, as mentioned, a big rack with a floor on top of the roof does the same thing and gives another platform/deck for whatever..

Very cool. Hadn't actually really paid attention to what function that actually served in the past. I'm definitely planning on putting a rack and platform on top, for surfboards/gear and also as a rooftop patio :beer:

@biere, rayra, TheGuyJones... great input on the rear door situation. It would be killer to turn that into some sort of rear shade. And excellent point on people only seeing what the want to see... putting a door graphic on a rear door skin would definitely get past 99% of people I'm sure.
 

tamangel

Adventurer
back door ideas..

here's a few ideas for your back door..

1- change roll-up to swing open doors:

http://boxtruckdreams.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/dscn4694.jpg?w=580&h=434

whole amateur build up here (simple but it works)..: http://boxtruckdreams.wordpress.com/2012/11/

2- another, very elaborate, thinking deck and roof ala WORT by rob gray.. could build false wall a foot or so inward, to conceal fold down/up deck/roof inside swinging closure doors..

http://www.robgray.com/graynomad/wothahellizat/wot1/diaries/diary_26/index.php

main page here (WORT one and WORT two / same chassis, different bodies-downsizing)..http://www.robgray.com/graynomad/index.php

fun to think about..

great build you have..makes my wheels turn..

Mike W

*****
 
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biere

Observer
Biggest problem with having a big flip open hatch would be sealing it, was looking at mine and with how it is inset a bit to roll up it won't be that easy to really make it from the stock parts unless I cut em all down.

The big picture made me smile.

Has anyone messed with an enclosed car hauler or just a big enclosed trailer with a ramp door? That is about what I am thinking about having to build, but mine would go up for a sun shade. Going to have to be decently strong if I want it to close on some sort of door gasket and be able to pull it down tight enough to be decently airtight.

This is coming soon in my changes to my van because the roll up door takes up ceiling height I need due to my van not being a raised roof option.

I figure the roof air gap can partly be solar panels if you are going to have solar panels.

I don't plan to access my roof rack but I want it for the sunblocking properties and I do want some solar panels. Step van is tall and as much as it would be nice to sit up top in a chair it is a tall sucker as it is.

Not sure what to use for a solid floor, kind of thinking about some type of thick plastic, not too thick. Something like a floor protector for an office chair or something perhaps.
 

mexicanfooddude

New member
I might have to copy your ideas at some point in the future. That is one of the coolest ideas I have ever seen.

Thanks, feel free to send any questions my way if you start going down this road in the future.

I finished redoing the ceiling, I've got some pictures to put up of the new and improved one as soon in a couple of weeks (on vacation with limited internet access right now). I'll also be commencing other phase 2 improvements at that time... see you all soon!
 

Mundo4x4Casa

West slope, N. Ser. Nev.
I like the way you think outside the box. To make the truck more mild-off-road-ready, you might want to install an Eaton/ Detroit True Trac gear driven limited slip rr diff. Very transparent and nothing to wear out. I think you have a Dana 60HD rr diff, so the part number is 915A385. It's 35 spline, FF, and has thick tubes. I just ordered a version of the True Trac for the front axle on my Dodge 2500 4WD. Amazingly inexpensive right now with the $50 factory mail in rebait.
jefe de doble tracción
 

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