U-bolt flip: '04 Taco

edgear

aventurero, Overland Certified OC0012
Jason Demello fabbed up a prototype U-bolt flip kit for me back in January (when I ordered my new suspension from him). I finally got around to putting it on about 2 weekends ago, and here are a few pics:

DSCN2834.JPG



My buddy Blake who made my rock sliders fabbed some new lower shock mounts for me:

DSCN2847.JPG
DSCN2848.JPG



And here's what it looks like on the truck:

DSCN2857.JPG



This should provide for a little bit more ground clearance in the rear. Not a totally necessary mod -- but what the heck -- it was a fun & easy one! Now it's time to go "field test" the product.

:truck:


oh -- and here's a sweet welding photo from that day:

DSCN2855.JPG
 

edgear

aventurero, Overland Certified OC0012
I am. I thought about trying out the / \ configuration, but decided to leave it the was it was for the time being.
 

seth_js

Explorer
I've never seen any one bolt on the bumpstops before. That's cool. How long are your bumpstops? They look a little shorter than stock. If you are running flexy springs and/or longer shackles, you might want to check the springs at full compression to make sure they aren't going to far into negative arch.
 

edgear

aventurero, Overland Certified OC0012
I don't think they're too much shorter than the old stock ones. I could compare them tonight & report back.

We did have to chop off about 1.5 inches from those new u-bolts that Demello sent me, so they wouldn't be taller than the bumpstops. That would have been some awesome metal-on-metal action!! :violent-smiley-031:
 

erin

Explorer
:coffee:
Looks good Jeremy, I was wondering the other day if you had forgot you had those. It looks like you reused the stock spring perches, is that correct? Were you able to determine if you lost any spring droop due to the schocks being stretched further now?
 

Scott Brady

Founder
Looks very nice. The shock mounts are impressive!

This solution just enhances the already high clearance Tacoma undercarriage.
 

edgear

aventurero, Overland Certified OC0012
seth_js said:
I've never seen any one bolt on the bumpstops before. That's cool. How long are your bumpstops? They look a little shorter than stock. If you are running flexy springs and/or longer shackles, you might want to check the springs at full compression to make sure they aren't going to far into negative arch.

seth_js, I finally got around to taking some comparison photos. I placed the old stock bumpstop next to the new one:

DSCN3159.JPG



The bumpstops from Jason Demello are actually a little bit taller, and substancially wider than the stock ones. I'll have to test out the Deavers next time I'm on the trail to see if they go into negative arch -- but I would hope not!
 

seth_js

Explorer
Nice. Those will probably be the perfect length then. I reused the stock ones, and my springs go just a little bit to far into negative arch for my likes. If you remember post up a pic after you get one with them fully compressed.
 

p1michaud

Expedition Leader
I like it!

tacozona said:
Jason Demello fabbed up a prototype U-bolt flip kit for me back in January (when I ordered my new suspension from him).

Do you know if the kits will be going on sale in the future? I'm also currious what type of precautions you have to take when welding the new lower shock mounts to the rear axle housing. Do you overfill the rear axle during welding, then drain and change the oil immediately afterwards? I'm currious as to how you ensure that you control the ammount of heat generated by welding to ensure you don't warp the housing or bake your seals and sensors.
Cheers :beer:,
P
 

BogusBlake

2006 Expedition Trophy Champion
BajaTaco said:
Jeremy, that looks sweet! Those lower mounts are pretty sexy. Hats off to Blake.

Blake here. Thanks for the props guys!

p1michaud said:
I'm also currious what type of precautions you have to take when welding the new lower shock mounts to the rear axle housing. Do you overfill the rear axle during welding, then drain and change the oil immediately afterwards? I'm currious as to how you ensure that you control the ammount of heat generated by welding to ensure you don't warp the housing or bake your seals and sensors.

I weld on axle housings all the time with no warpage. I use a stacked-tack method to keep the HAZ close to the weld and don't weld more than about one inch every 8-10 minutes.

To keep the seals and sensors safe, be sure to put your grounding clamp on the same part of the axle you're welding to. For example- DON'T clamp the a lug nut and weld on the axle tube- clamp to a bolt on the tube instead. That keeps the electrical path from traveling through any seals or sensors.
 

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