Tundra 2016 4x4 custom off road camper build

rruff

Explorer
Just in the planning stages for now, but I'll be ordering parts and materials soon. I'm posting this to get feedback and ideas. Looks like there are a lot of people on this forum with loads of experience and I'm looking forward to your insights. That means I want your opinions!

Purpose: Long term remote camping for 2 in the US and Canada. Mostly the desert SW in winter, and the western mountains in summer. By remote mean I isolated, away from the "normal" campsites, campers, and RVs, so decent offroading capability is necessary. BLM and NF land. By long term I mean months away from home. We'll be venturing to town about once a week for supplies, within a 1 or 2 hr drive, so we don't need to load up for long periods. Not expeditioning or hard core exploring.

Background: For 13 years ('91-'2004) I lived in a '84 Toyota 2WD pickup. Camping in remote areas, mostly in the western US, moving with the seasons. Working little. I had money saved up and spent less than $5k/yr. The first couple years it was just a small camper shell on the back. The truck (my home!) was stolen when I was parked at a friend's house, but showed up in a parking lot a week later, sans shell and a couple windows. So I built a larger shell in a friend's garage. Due to poor construction methods that one was having issues, so in 2001 I built a much nicer one. Big enough to stand in! It worked great, but in 2004 I became civilized (again!) and the camper+ truck was parked in my Dad's shed, many miles from where I lived. The truck needed work after many years of abuse, but I always intended to fix it up some day. That never happened and I recently had to get rid of it (gave it away). I'm going to build a better and more capable rig now, and the wife is totally on board and looking forward to it. She actually lived in my old one for a couple years so she knows what she is getting into!

YPic07-.jpgYTruck02.jpg

Rig overview: 2016 Tundra SR DC 4x4 long bed. I considered a Unimog, a Fuso, a Sprinter 4x4, a Ford or Chevy 3/4 ton. The Sprinter was at the top until I read about very persistent emissions issues when they get ~100k miles. I liked the idea of an older truck that doesn't have electronics and computers. I do my own wrenching whenever possible, but on the road this is tough. Reliability is very important. I finally went with the Toyota because of prior experience (my '84 never left me stranded in 240k miles), and they still get the best reliability ratings. The Tundras have changed very little since 2007, so most of the "bugs" are fixed. It's only a 1/2 ton and I'll be near or over the GVWR, but based on testimonials of people who have gone 200k miles with a 2,000 load, I don't think it'll be a problem. It's literally 2x the weight and 3x the horsepower of my old '84 pickup!

Bed will be removed and a custom camper (built by me) installed in it's place. Rear seat removed for storage of heavy stuff (water, batteries, tools). Camper will be 6'2" high inside, 78" wide, 10' from cab to back. Spartan living accomodations. A bed (42"x76") that doubles as a couch. The cab-over is storage, not a bed. Small sink. Propane tank and portable stove. Table with 2 laptop slide-outs. 15 gal washing water, and 8 gal drinking. 100W solar on the roof plus a portable panel, and a AGM battery. Mostly storage inside using plastic drawers and cloth and bungy slings in the corners to hold soft items (like clothes). A porta potty for when it isn't suitable to go outside. A sunshower. No heat, no refrigeration. We'll be in moderate temperatures (typically 40s at night, rarely to freezing) and usually sunny climates which makes things easier. I'll probably carry a couple bicycles, and a portable kayak. I like to have things inside rather than hanging on the outside.

Tundra13-.jpg

Suspension upgrades: I'm going to need to beef things up particularly on the rear. I figure about a 1500 lb increase over stock with ~1000 lb of that on the rear wheels and 500 lbs on the front. I'd rather not spend a fortune on this, but I'd like to have more ground clearance and a suspension that will do well on long stretches of washboard, with ravine crossings and rocks thrown in.

Front struts: Currently planning on Fatbob coilover struts on the front (~$500). These are adjustable for preload and provide up to 4" of lift on an unloaded truck. Lifts up to 2" on the front are safe on Tundra's, but if you get any higher you need to spend more money if you want the suspension to perform correctly. Since I'm not sure how the load will end up and I want to be right near 2 inches, I want adjustability. There are better adjustable struts from King and Icon in the $1500+ range, but I don't know if they are worth it.

Rear: On the back I'm thinking an add a leaf and air bags both, and better shocks. Even though the load won't be varying that much, I still like the adjustability of the airbags. One benefit is being able to level the truck a bit when parked. But which bags? The usual suspects are made for highway hauling and have short travel. Very poor for articulation. Daystar cradles are an option. I've only found one viable long travel bag maker and that is Slam Specialities. Has anyone used those? They aren't designed for offroad, but they do have good travel. For shocks I'm considering Ranchos which have adjustable damping, and are not expensive. They may not be adequate, but I can swap them out easily if they aren't. I'm still debating whether I want a sway bar on the back. I'll probably see how it is without it.

Tires: I want larger ones since they provide the best ground clearance. The truck comes with 32" diameter tires and it appears I can go up to 34" without too much trouble. That'll give me 3" of total lift in the front with the 2" suspension lift, and I'll adjust the back so it's level. I'm going to be in sand a fair amount in winter, and occasional mud in summer, but mostly it will be hard packed dirt and gravel. And of course pavement. Tires with deep lugs would be best, but I'm not sure if I want to make the on-road compromises in rain traction, noise, comfort, and mpg. There are many all-terrain tires which split the difference, but I get the impression they are mostly show, and compromise road ability for little or no offroad gain. I'm currently leaning towards the Michelin LTX M/S in LT295/70-18. Thoughts on tires?

Camper construction: I've looked at a lot of alternatives, but I feel more secure with what I know. I built the last one out of home made sandwich panels, using 2.5mm Luan for the outer skins (5mm on the floor), with styrofoam and wood stringers (pine) in the middle, then covered all exterior surfaces with a layer of fiberglass mat and polyester resin. On this one I'm thinking I'll use marine plywood (3mm Okume for the walls and top, 6mm Meranti for the floor), with 1" extruded styrofoam in the walls, and 2" in the floor and ceiling. I'll use redwood for the edges and stringers, narrow ones ~12" apart, and wider ones where the plywood is joined. This camper will be flat on top rather than 3-piece, mostly for ease of building, especially on the curved front. The front is a separate piece. All exterior surfaces will get a layer of fiberglass (light cloth, vinylester resin, gelcoat). I've been doing experiments and PL Premium looks like it will work well to bond both the wood and the styrofoam, plus it works at cold temperatures, so I can get started this winter.

It'll have one side door, with a retractable step (8" drop down), a large hatch in the back that lifts up, a window on each side and in the hatch, a vent on top, and maybe a skylight as well.

Why not pre-made panels? I haven't priced any but testimonials from others indicate they are expensive, and then you need to join the edges and provide reinforcements around windows and doors, and any place where you want to attach something. In other words I don't think there is much time saving for the cost. Plus I'd be dealing with something I'm not familiar with. There is an advantage in having less wood to rot, but I'm not planning to be in environments where it's likely to be an issue. And if I'm paying attention to my rig, there shouldn't be any water intrusion anyway.

Windows: I haven't thought about them much, but I need to get windows I had jalousies on my other one and thought they were fine. That doesn't seem to be a popular choice though. Anyone know why?

Camper mounting: I've read a lot about pivot mounts but I question whether it's necessary for my application. I hard mounted my last one and it didn't have any problems after many miles of rough roads and ravine crossings. The panels will have vertical stringers in the walls, and side to side in the top and bottom. This should make them fairly flexible in twist. Plus I won't have a strong and stiff structure inside that ties the walls and floor together and prevents movement. Recently most light trucks have gone to a closed channel (boxed) frame, but not the Tundra. It's open C under the bed, and consequently is more flexible than most. I've noticed that at least a couple people on this forum have hard mounted custom campers to older pickups and they don't mention any problems. I'm leaning towards hard mounting mine to keep it simpler and lighter, and closer to the ground. Unless someone talks me out of it.

TundraTwist-.jpg

That it for now. I think I've covered the main points. If you have comments or suggestions or questions on any aspect of my "plan" lets hear it!
 
Last edited:

tommyt

New member
You asked about the spray foam in another thread and I came here to see what you had in mind...

I will likely build a similar camper as ski-bike-camp seen here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...rt-V3-Explorer-Feedback-from-the-group-needed

I want to have a well insulated 4 season camper and I plan on vacuum bagging with laminating resin 3" EPS High Load 40 or 60 or Formular 400 or 600 SIP's with trimmed 2" x 4" lumber reinforcing and two layers of luan/door skin on either side. Once the whole box/house is assembled I plan on reinforcing the corners with carbon cloth and finally fiberglassing the entire outside with fiberglass. Paint will be a roll on Monstaliner type of material. Inside can be stained, painted or finished in other ways...

In the ceiling I will likely use 4" EPS insulation and the floor will use aluminum stingers/reinforcing with 1/4" marine grade plywood underneath the insulation and 1/2" on top as a sub floor.

I look forward to your build and have fun with your project...
 

rruff

Explorer
In your drawing you have the side door on the drivers side, is that for real, and why there instead of on the passenger/curb side?

I had it on the driver side before for ease of cab-camper access, not having to go around to the other side of the truck. I never loaded the camper while parked on a street. Rarely parked on a street at all. It doesn't matter much though, I could easily put it on the other side, and it makes more sense since my wife will be along.

I love Bisbee! Almost called it home a couple decades ago.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
FYI,the custom camper I built that we have been running for the past few years is built using VG Fir framing, PL Premium, XPS Foam, Marine ply, glass, and epoxy.

From an insulation standpoint it is near impossible to beat. Wood and foam are simply better insulators than aluminum or honeycomb composites.

Lightweight as well. The shell weighed in at less than 800lbs

chassis204.jpg



For some inspiration, build thread is here. :)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1111870-idashos-idacamper2-0-a.html


It is still a bit of a test mule as we use it, providing data for future builds. Ive already started plans for our next camper.

So far epoxy and industrial rustoleum has proven to be very tough.
Im still considering Monstaliner, if anything to hide some of the imperfections :coffee:
 

rruff

Explorer
I want to have a well insulated 4 season camper and I plan on vacuum bagging with laminating resin 3" EPS High Load 40 or 60 or Formular 400 or 600 SIP's with trimmed 2" x 4" lumber reinforcing and two layers of luan/door skin on either side. Once the whole box/house is assembled I plan on reinforcing the corners with carbon cloth and finally fiberglassing the entire outside with fiberglass. Paint will be a roll on Monstaliner type of material. Inside can be stained, painted or finished in other ways...

Good stuff! Sounds like your construction is fairly similar. Where are you finding that heavy duty foam? Nobody carries it where I live.

I thought about epoxy-fiberglass and then Monstaliner on the outside, but vinylester and gelcoat is plenty tough (from prior experience) and cheaper. I don't know if you were planning this, but it's a lot easier to fiberglass the panels flat (before assembly) and then do the edges after.
 

tommyt

New member
Good stuff! Sounds like your construction is fairly similar. Where are you finding that heavy duty foam? Nobody carries it where I live.

I thought about epoxy-fiberglass and then Monstaliner on the outside, but vinylester and gelcoat is plenty tough (from prior experience) and cheaper. I don't know if you were planning this, but it's a lot easier to fiberglass the panels flat (before assembly) and then do the edges after.

I have considered vacuum bagging the walls including the two layers of fiberglass because it's stronger and lighter but it would be a much more daunting task. Remember, I will be working with huge sidewalls or roof and even with one or two assistants I just don't know if I'll have enough time to wet out two sheets of luan, lay all the precut foam sheets and wood reinforcing, wet out another two sheets of luan and then two layers of fiberglass, add release film or peel ply, breather cloth and get everything under vacuum before the whole mess starts curing. I also live in south Florida and cool days are rare so curing will be accelerated. Not laying up the fiberglass will likely cut at least an hour of layup time
I think by building the box first and then fiberglassing everything with a roller will be much easier. I also won't be stressing cure time as much. I also don't want to spend a gazillion hours sanding and filling to get a super smooth finish to spray on a gelcoat hence I am thinking Monstaliner or equivalent. It is an expedition vehicle after all and will get dinged up…
High density EPS is also not commonly used down here in south Florida like it is up north but about 10 years ago I was able to order a dozen sheets of 2” thick Formular 400 from a local foam distributer here in Miami.
If you live near a major city you should be able to find some. Look for insulation and foam distributors. Commercial roofing companies, walk in refrigerator manufacturers… Maybe call Dow or Owens Corning for a local distributor? I also just checked and Home Depot sell s 2” x 2' x 8' sheets of Formular 250. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...oove-R-10-Insulation-Sheathing-24DD/100320335 This would likely also be strong enough as part of a sandwich but it says it's not available in my area even shipped… Maybe Formular 150 also available at HD is strong enough?
 

rruff

Explorer
Any questions, just let me know.

I stumbled onto your build thread on this forum. Man, lots of hate for wood! And I'm not planning on having a metal frame or any subframe at all, and no pivot mount. The floor of the camper will bolt to the truck's frame. On my last camper this worked fine for the 3 years I used it. I'm guessing there was ~300 hrs of washboard and rocks and 45k total miles in that time.

I'm not opposed to fiberglass and foam and ditching the plywood skins and stringers, but I haven't found anyplace that describes the process in detail for someone with a lowish budget and little experience. I take that back, I saw a couple build threads where they applied epoxy and cloth to extruded polystyrene, but both had delamination issues when exposed to heat (sun). Investigating further, this is quite common. The foam outgasses when it gets hot. Surfboards built this way have thousands of pinholes to let gas escape.

But even if I wanted to build polystyrene and epoxy/fiberglass panels, where could the high density foam be bought? No one near me carries it. Divinycell PVC foam seems to be popular for boats, but that stuff costs ~$300 per 4x8 sheet plus shipping. Rhinokore looks like great stuff (foam filled plastic honeycomb) but someone mentioned it was ~$700 for a 4x8 sheet. At any rate, I'd still need some detailed "fiberglass and foam sandwich for dummies" help!

I'm open to suggestions. I sorta defaulted to the panel construction I described above because I've done it before and had no issues. Granted, I only used that one for 3 years before I had to park it, and I'd like this one to last at least 20.
 

rruff

Explorer
I think by building the box first and then fiberglassing everything with a roller will be much easier. I also won't be stressing cure time as much. I also don't want to spend a gazillion hours sanding and filling to get a super smooth finish to spray on a gelcoat hence I am thinking Monstaliner or equivalent. It is an expedition vehicle after all and will get dinged up…

If you are building flat panels and wish to fiberglass the exterior, it is easier to apply fiberglass to the panel before it is built into a box. Horizontal surfaces only that way. Then after the box is built put a couple layers on the corners.

I'm definitely not doing a smooth surface! My last one was mat cloth and I didn't sand it at all. The gelcoat is brushed or rolled on. It's just a pigmented polyester resin finish coat.

High density EPS is also not commonly used down here in south Florida like it is up north but about 10 years ago I was able to order a dozen sheets of 2” thick Formular 400 from a local foam distributer here in Miami.
If you live near a major city you should be able to find some. Look for insulation and foam distributors. Commercial roofing companies, walk in refrigerator manufacturers… Maybe call Dow or Owens Corning for a local distributor? I also just checked and Home Depot sell s 2” x 2' x 8' sheets of Formular 250. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...oove-R-10-Insulation-Sheathing-24DD/100320335 This would likely also be strong enough as part of a sandwich but it says it's not available in my area even shipped… Maybe Formular 150 also available at HD is strong enough?

Thanks for the tips. Even though I live in a cooler climate, 150 is common, 250 is rare. I don't think I'd use anything less than 600 if I was relying on it for the core structure. The polyurethane or PVC foam for structural core are 5+ lb/ft^3.
 

rruff

Explorer
I also just checked and Home Depot sell s 2” x 2’ x 8’ sheets of Formular 250. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Co...oove-R-10-Insulation-Sheathing-24DD/100320335 This would likely also be strong enough as part of a sandwich but it says it’s not available in my area even shipped… Maybe Formular 150 also available at HD is strong enough?

I found the Dow Highload foam for sale, and they have locations over most of the country: http://www.whitecap.com/shop/Search...&pageView:grid&minPrice:&maxPrice:&pageSize:&

This heavy styrofoams should have enough shear strength to make a thin skinned structural panel. If you use the light foam, you will get core failure long before the skins are at their limit. At least one place is selling panels with the Dow foam: http://www.styromax.com.au/category/products/#styromax-panels

The Highload styrofoams are pretty pricey though, I've seen mention of <$100 for 4x8 2" sheets. This is a lot more than light stuff at Home Depot, but a lot cheaper than the PVC foams which are ~$300. You must use epoxy resin if fiberglassing styrofoam, but you can use polyester or vinylester resin on the PVC foams.

I'll probably stick to what I was planning originally. Thin skins of marine ply, with wood stringers and foam, and vinylester resin+fiberglass, and gelcoat on top of that.
 

DzlToy

Explorer
A few things off the top of my head and a few more from my notes, so this may get edited.

Foamular 250 and 600 are not going to be common in home stores. They "may" be able to order them for you at the commercial desk, but there will be a large minium order quantity and the price will be steep. Your best bet is to find a foundation contractor, especially in colder climates and see if they will let you buy a few sheets at cost. The price will be much cheaper and they usually keep some in stock.

IIRC, the 250 and 600 refers to the load rating of the foam in PSI. A 600 psi foam is going to be quite dense, as it is basically a structural foam, engineered for installation under roadways, bridges, etc. Foam sheeting provides insulation by trapping air, so if the foam is more dense, it is A) heavier and B) less insulative (more foam = less trapped air). A Foamular 600 will be a VERY expensive product at the retail level.

You certainly want an XPS foam or a Phenolic foam and not an EPS foam. Yes, I know that panels are built with EPS, but it would not be my first choice, if I were doing the building. I do not have experience with vacuum bagging or gelcoating, though the little fiberglass experience I do have, makes me want to run screaming in the opposite direction. The materials, chemicals, labour, sanding, itching, odors, etc., are simply a huge turn off for me.

Instead I would look at a thin aluminum sheet (22-26 gauge) laid over an XPS foam (2" all around) and spray that with a thin layer of Tempcoat and bedliner. The interior paneling can be another sheet of aluminum, steel or wood veneer. A simple industrial contact adhesive will bond the components together and there is no need for vaccum bagging, rushing to saturate cloth before it begins to cure, etc. Spray the foam and the veneer, let each one sit for about 5-10 mins, then slap them together. Done. No curing time required.

On tires, avoid Goodyear Duratracs as an A/T. They are good in the snow, but loud on the road and it doesn't sound like you will see much of the former. I would look at Cooper ST Max tires and Cooper Discover ST3

http://expeditionportal.com/where-the-rubber-meets-the-road/

I don't know much about Tundras, but I have been a Toyota guy for about 20 years now and they are certainly tough to beat. I cannot believe you lived in a Hilux for 13 years. You must be one tough SOB.

Cheers
 

rruff

Explorer
Thank you for your comments!

Whitecap is the only place I've seen that carries the Dow Highload foam, but I've not contacted them for a price. Menards sells Foamular 600, but only in large quantities. It's ~$2/ft^2 for the 2" thickness: http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...4450501063-c-5779.htm?tid=7285269152514764516
Your suggestion of asking foundation contractors is probably a good one.

Oddly all the higher strength and density foam has the same thermal resistance as the low density. When you think about it though, it isn't that odd. The solid material has a high thermal resistance, and even the heavy foam is nearly all air. The Foamular 600 is only 2.2 lb/ft^3. PVC structural foams are typically ~ 5 lb/ft^3. http://www.foamular.com/assets/0/144/172/174/98cf58e1-c3d2-4b6c-beb5-2063215bea18.pdf

I'm still leaning towards the use of wood stringers, which negates the need for expensive structural foam. The stringers give me a place to install screws for interior shelves and cabinets as well. I trust bonding wood to wood and resin to wood, more than I do bonding anything to foam. I was apprehensive about using fiberglass as the exterior coat when I did it before, but I had no issues with it at all, even though temperatures varied a lot and it was hard to get the mix right. It was hard as a rock and no cracks developed with use. I did not sand it at all, and I will not this time either. I don't need a smooth surface.

One thing I've learned about bonding to foam is that you want to really roughen the surface, to give the glue something to grab. Do you use just any contact cement? Have you built samples and stressed them to failure?

I wasn't tough, but the truck was. The bottom of it was nothing but dents and gouges, including the oil pan and gas tank, but I never had a failure. I'm hoping I can get to where I want to go in the Tundra, without it suffering that kind of abuse.
 

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