Traxide dual battery system - Which version to get?


I couldn't get a clear answer from Traxide one which version to get, to 80 or 160.

unseenone, why are you upgrading to the 160?


The difference is mainly around the Charging amperage the two units are capable of. I have not had any problems with the 80, however, I have and use a winch so I wanted maximum amperage between the batteries, so I opted to upgrade to the 160, which was not available when I first ordered.

In reference to the "relatively old repackaged question, no, not at all, it's one of the slickest implementations I have seen. The competitors for the most part use solenoids, I don't think you can get much older or repackaged than that. If you were budget minded, and wanted something decent, there is another one out there, I could bring in for you for about 80 bucks which is a halfway decent alternative.

In my opinion, go with the 160, and you will have the maximum capacity, and options and you can move it from vehicle to vehicle if you upgrade later, it will last forever. The warranty is also excellent. I believe if it ever fails, he will replace it.

There are "kits" specifically designed for Land Rovers, as well as some other vehicles, or generic kits. These are hugely popular in Australia. I recommend the complete kit, because it will come with all the wire and other stuff you need for the installation. Here is a bit of a description on the 160

The 160 also has an optional switch which allows you to change it from several different modes or behaviors more conveniently. This alleviates the concerns voiced in this thread. Additionally, due to the design, you can add a solar charge controller, as I did at the rear of the vehicle and it will charge both batteries. Here is a summary of the modes on the 160.


Cut-In at 13.1v, Cut-Out at 12.6v ( similar to other isolators )


Cut-In at 13.1v, Shared mode 12.7v, Cut-Out at 12.0v

See full details of the advantage of the SHARED Mode on the SC80 Isolator page.


Manually selectable between 10.0v and 12.7v


Manually selected above 13.1 ( motor must be running ), but once selected, will operate down to 10.0v

TIME-OUT, energy saver.

The USI-160 also has a Time-Out feature, designed to avoid wasting energy if a vehicle is not used for some time.

The Time-Out counter starts when ever the voltage at the input of the USI-160 drops below 12.7v and Times Out and shuts down after 72 hours ( 3 days ) from when the voltage first dropped below 12.7v

Any time the voltage at the USI-160 rises above 12.7v, the TIME-OUT counter is reset and suspended.
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I think it will definitely help while winching but I have been getting by just fine without it. For me, it's more of a want to have, than have to have it. Using snatch block(s) will significantly reduce the load.


I have an SC-80 available with the negative and positive battery cables as I've upgraded to the 160. Works perfectly. Let me know if you're interested and I can give you a nice deal on it.


Here's a couple of traxide installs in an LR3 and LR4. You might be able to ping the OP's of these threads and see which model they went with.
This one is mine.

I did the full on kit as I didn't want to have a lacking situation down the road maybe overkill and maybe I won't ever use it to its full potential but its there none the less.

My big thing was I wanted a vehicle specific install not a cobbled together generic fits any vehicle "kit" The install instructions leave a little to be desired IMO but it will get you there.
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Colin Hughes

I talked to an engineer buddy at the factory in the UK and I'm going to use my Surepower 1314 to split and charge the two batteries. The Surepower doesn't open and allow charge to the aux battery until the main is charged to its' required voltage. Here's a snip-it of the discussion.
(my friend)
I believe it is an 06MY V8 Petrol NAS/Canadian vehicle, if that helps.
It's the 'old' PCM based volts vs electrolyte temp then so is a conventional charging system in terms of function. The alternator is 'smart' in terms of having a variable setpoint but it's controlled by the PCM to give a conventional charging system function (z curve).
(reply from electrical dept)
depends on the year. The older T5s used a "conventional" charging regime which means that the charge voltage is based upon battery electrolyte temperature (inferred rather than measured in this case).

Later T5s (10MY> 3.0V6D & AJ133 from memory, think 2.7 V6D & 3.6 V8D stuck with the old PCM based strategy) use the BMS based charging regime which has several modes of operation which could conflict with a secondary battery overlay. The charge setpoint could be anywhere between 12 - 15v.

We have seen instances where certain accessory hardware doesn't get above it's "enable" threshold - this is one of the reasons why armoured cars have the charging system set to "conventional" where it replicates the older style charging regime.

Colin Hughes

Yes, a certain serial number range. Mine was made before the recall (#'s can be found on their website) and it's performed well in my P38, D2 and 300tdi.


I’ve had my kit installed for a few years now and I tested my fridge overnight and it died. I tested the battery and it said 12v. I put a load on it for ~20 seconds and it dropped to 11-10v why would my ARB fridge cut out if it’s still registering 12v?


Mine cuts off if battery voltage drops below 12v when it's running I assume so it does not damage it but it gives an annoying beep way before it shuts off for my dual battery set up I used a D.C. To D.C. Charge controller that is isolated with a relay