Trailer tongue box temps?

[djwuzj]

Figured the trailer gurus would have the best input here...

I'm working on my M416 build and purchased a trailer tongue box to serve as my hub for electronics. It is a thick poly carbonate, and will be water tight.

This will include:
1. ArcPak powered by remote 12v plug in from trailer hot lead
2. Separate blue sea hub with 60a thermal breaker between ArkPak and fuse block

This will fill all base camp power needs (lights, water pump, 110v, etc). I started to think about how hot it could get inside, especially if parked in the open sun, etc. ArkPak will function up to 122*F

Questions:
- has anyone had experience with what temps get up-to inside one of these?
- any solutions to help with ventilation while keeping it waterproof?

My solutions/precautions thus far include:
- marine fuel vent - allows pressure to escape and some excess head to roll out while keeping it weatherproof
- marine blower and vent - would be hard wired to 12v constant power, as well as fuse block with inline switch for when disconnected from trailer. Vent would face rearward between box and trailer body.

Will eventually post a build thread on this to keep update on progress... Just stockpiling parts for now!

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Hondok9]

Count me in

I am having the same concerns as I also want to run an ArkPac in my tongue box as well. You said that the marine fuel vent was "weather" proof but how do you think it will do with dust? I will primarily be doing a lot of desert running and don't want to coat everything inside the box.

 

[12husky]

One of the 4" solar vent fans meant for boats might do the trick as long as you have an air inlet somewhere too


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[quickfarms]

It is interesting but kind of pricy $399 for the unit plus another $95 for the 12 volt charger.

It is a float charger, battery monitor, 150 watt inverter, 12 volt plugs, and USB plugs in one pretty box. I forgot to add that it is also a jump box.

We have built similar systems for as long as I can remember for a fraction of the cost.

 

[djwuzj]

It is interesting but kind of pricy $399 for the unit plus another $95 for the 12 volt charger.

It is a float charger, battery monitor, 150 watt inverter, 12 volt plugs, and USB plugs in one pretty box. I forgot to add that it is also a jump box.

We have built similar systems for as long as I can remember for a fraction of the cost.

Realistically I could have done the same... however... I'm an electrical idiot and a sucker for good marketing. I picked mine up for $400, and free shipping. This also included the mount, and the charger.

Anyone could cobble $150 in parts (estimated total for all components) however, having fit, functionality, reliability, etc in a simple package is what sold me.

Their reviews, as well as stories of the intelligence behind the system (ability to an ARB fridge for 11 days) are what helped sell me on it.

It was the best compromise for me, and isnt for everyone.

 

[djwuzj]

Back on topic

I've gone back and forth and I think that I have the solution. I'm big on Amazon, so here is my parts list/description of set-up.

1. Intake and exhaust ports will both be added to the back of the trailer box to help with air flow. The exhaust will instead include a short section of pipe, versus the louvered hood. These things have great reviews, and given their set-up should help keep water out. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006R5LND0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ANNYFJC2Y5PU4

2. To combat dust, I'll be slicing and dicing small pre-filters fit for the intake/exhaust. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2US/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

3. For air flow, I'll be using a marine blower. These things are used for anything from engine bays to cabins to circulate hot air and gas out. Power consumption is low around 2-3A http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O0DE9E/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

4. For tubing, I'll be using 3" dryer tubing from Home Depot

5. For controlling the fan, I'll be using a thermostat switch. On at 100* and off at 85*.

6. For power, I'll be running a hot lead from the 7 blade trailer junction box, into the trailer tongue box, and powering a 12v port. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026RYU4W/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1JX5VIUKL6HSF

7. The port will feed into the ArkPak with the DC plug. This keeps it fed while traveling, etc.

8. Using the Anderson port on the ArkPak, I'll be running a 6 fuse Blue Sea fuse box.

9. The fuse box will power the fan.

10. To help with keeping condensation down overnight, I'll devise an inline switch/override to keep it churning.

Others on Mud suggested pressurizing the box, however, this would require an intake vent, and to do it right, would require some expensive labyrinth filters. Also, the downside is that at a water crossing, it could drown itself.

Anyone see any issues with this? I'll keep progress as I go, but this is where my head is at right now.

 

[skersfan]

Mr. simple here. Why not a direct feed from the tow vehicle to a 12 volt plug and a USB adapter that plugs in. No heat worries, run your hot wire to distribution point. Seems like a lot of things to go wrong bouncing all over the trail.

 

[djwuzj]

I totally agree. Simpler, and cheaper. But there is a fine line between simple and redundancies.

I'll have a 12v + USB hard wired through the truck/trailer connection, but having the ArkPak was a good compromise to have something for the trail, and at home (where generators arent an option).

It allows me to have a 3rd battery system between my Primary/Dual Battery and Trailer. I run an IBS Dual Batt System, which allows for add ons of a 3rd battery, but again this was a better compromise to have another independent system.

This is also primarily for base camping. It wont be seeing harsh trails. My only concern is keeping it cool during 2000+ mile treks cross country on the open highway, as well as sitting at camp during the day. I could easily keep it in the truck while traveling, but that also takes up space and becomes another 100lb flying object in the event of an accident/rollover, etc.

 

[skersfan]

YOu have dual batteries in the truck, a trailer battery, and you are adding tongue box for another battery. that is a lot of weight. I guess I am just not familiar with arcpac. I thought initially it was for welding.

In honesty I have never seen a 12 volt system overheat. Possibly not enough juice to start a vehicle, but normally other problems cause the non start. I can not imagine a phone charger not working in a 12 volt socket.

I run everything off of my trailer batter, Lights indoor and outdoor, water pump, water monitoring system, hot water heater fired by 12 volt and my ARB fridge. I can also run a propex propane heater off of it, fan in the AC will operate. I have found the less connections between the tow battery/alternator to the trailer battery the betters.

I run all my electrical through two units, one a 12 volt system with 12 fuses and 110 system with 6 breakers, all the 12 volt system is attached to my solar controller so I have an actual usage on my battery and the life left in it before it needs charging. I have a 255 amp hour AGM battery in my trailer. It can be charged by the tow vehicle being plugged in, or a generator, and of course a solar panel. My system is designed for many days off road, the most I have spent in it is 27 days in the Colorado wilderness near Ouray.

Also keeping weight off the tongue, will make the trailer normally pull better and be much easier to move by hand when off road. I see some that have 500 pound tongue weight, not good in an emergency if you have to disconnect and reconnect.

I will follow your build and research the unit.