Trailer in Design stage
- Thread starter RJ Howell
- Start date
RJ Howell
Active member
3". Think I know where you're going with this.. Sounds like I need to pick an axle to get the width.. I'm using my Dexter 3500 right now for a dimension to work from.
That returns to a previous question.. Have any recommendations on suppliers of axles?
Thinking leaf spring, electric brake and 4500-5500 lb capacity.
RJ Howell
Active member
North is the short answer. James/Hudson Bay, North Labrador, inland Newfoundland are the 3 next major excursions. What will I encounter? What will I need to pull through? I don't know for certain. My belief is to over-size the axle/components to relieve any issues that can occur.
Maybe I'm over thinking this, but 1K over 'wet weight' seems right to me. Also why I'm here and asking so many questions.
Current numbers put me just over 2400 lbs and I don't have gear included. I see myself passing 3K if not careful, trying to stay 2800 lbs fully loaded.
RJ Howell
Active member
There's some info on TNTTT that might be helpful:
I'm not sure why they make this info so hard to find on their website. I knew it was there and it took me a while to track it down.
Found two errors in the formula (well his written anyway). Corrected that and ran it for fun. I'm 2 inches too far back right now.. Not a bad guess! I do need to get very specific now on weights and locations so I can run it again. Anything forward helps with the Wetbath design. I'll see where this goes.
Thank you again for the spreadsheet!
Update: Found a few more issues with the calculator.. Think I found a better one. https://mechanicalelements.com/trailer-axle-position/
Last edited:
RJ Howell
Active member
When you calculate your axle position, due you include the tongue length in the over-all dimension? If so I'm seeing 62% back from tongue, 53% back on box only. This is factoring a 12% tongue weight. If true, then I'm very close to the 60/40 rule and can move my axle forward.
This program defines box weight, trailer weight & tongue weight (and length) separately. I do like that part of this.
Screen shot could be a bit confusing, but it gives you the idea of what I'm doing with the program.
This program defines box weight, trailer weight & tongue weight (and length) separately. I do like that part of this.
Screen shot could be a bit confusing, but it gives you the idea of what I'm doing with the program.
Louisd75
Adventurer
Yes, include the tongue length. It's part of the "beam" that your spreadsheet is summing the forces on. I wouldn't personally worry about being a couple percent too far back.
The 60/40 guideline is based on box length.
But it's just a guideline, obviously heavy tanks and banks can be positioned to allow departing from that in either direction.
The ideal IMO, especially with axle-less suspension is a box design that lets you relocate the wheels as needed when later changes moves your CoG.
But it's just a guideline, obviously heavy tanks and banks can be positioned to allow departing from that in either direction.
The ideal IMO, especially with axle-less suspension is a box design that lets you relocate the wheels as needed when later changes moves your CoG.
RJ Howell
Active member
And that's how I'm using it, as a guideline. If I found the program to place me 75/25, I'd be questioning a lot of things. Since it put me at 62%, I think it's running pretty darn well.
RJ Howell
Active member
Thank you! I thought as much, but wanted to verify. Being 62% and closer to actually weights, I have no issues with gaining a few percent.
This is a huge move for me! This moves my axle forward and opens up the wet/bath more (still in there) and makes it doable! WHOA!
RJ Howell
Active member
Absolutely hear you. Gear can be stored fore or aft of axle changing quite a bit. I have placement of 2 tanks to work through (fresh & gray).
My press to get this part as close as possible is designing the wet bath. I hoped for 4" forward to give me minimal foot clearance. I know see I can move 8" forward by design. This gives me plenty of cushion to work with. I am so happy! This was a 'major' hurdle to get over. It's really starting to come together.
Toilet looks like the C-Head. I can buy the basic parts for about $350 and create my own. I can see a couple of ideas, but now I have room to make something happen. I'm not a huge fan of composting toilets due to cost. UDDT's do make sense to me. We Wag-Bag solids.
So... Anyone following or just reading this.. What do you use? Anyone using a C-Head? Anyone build their own UDDT?
opp
Observer
As you have to much free time.https://builditsolar.com/Projects/Water/RVCompostToilet/RVCompostToilet.htm
use fiberglass poly to make the body any shape you want and foam
use fiberglass poly to make the body any shape you want and foam
RJ Howell
Active member
I'm patiently awaiting my expectance to TNTT and talk to them a bit deeper about the Foamie construction. Where it could be used and how could lead to a 500 lbs reduction in weight incorporated into my design. There are several considerations involved here that I won't get into right now, just to say, rather interesting what they are doing. That much of a reduction is not to be over-looked quickly. I'll post up as I learn more.