Towing with a 2 door Jeep Wrangler. Can you find fault with my testing methodology?

Joe98

New member
Can you find fault in my testing methodology?

My wife and I go camping from time to time. We use a tent. A photo is below.

Two years ago, I took delivery of a 2 door Jeep Wrangler (I LOVE MY Jeep!)

The Jeep does not have much storage space so I considered getting a box trailer for camping. The towing capacity of my Jeep is 750 kilo (~1,600 pounds).

I feel that 750 kilo is way too high so I set myself an arbitrary limit of 450 kilo (~1,000 pounds).

As I researched box trailers, I stumbled over tear drop trailers.

A basic stripped down tear drop, without a galley, without cupboards, without a battery, without electronics, without a water tank, will come in at about 350 kilo unladen (~ 770 pounds). When we add our water and camping gear we would be hard pressed to reach 450 kilo (~1,000 pounds).

I have now done a test to determine whether I can tow 450 kilos comfortably.

Can you find fault in my testing methodology?

I set a course whereby I drive over a series of small hills. Much like a roller coaster. I need to pull the trailer up the hills and brake going down the other side. The remainder of my course is suburban driving and some highway driving. I selected a length of highway which is mostly up hill and when I turn around of course it is mostly down hill.

Before I started, I checked my tyre pressure, I topped up the fuel and the wiper reservoir. When camping I remove the back seats. For the test, I put the back sets in to represent any cargo we might carry in the back.

Test 1. I drove my Jeep around my course to become familiar with the course. At certain points I checked the engine revs and the gear selected by the 8 speed automatic.

Test 2. I rented a box trailer (see photo) which weighs 200 Kilo unladen (~440 pounds). It towed like it was not there!

Test 3. I loaded some bricks in the back to bring the weight up to 300 kilo (~660 pounds). Again I didn’t notice the trailer.

Test 4. I hired a heavier trailer (see photo) which weighs 350 Kilo unladen (~770 pounds). Again, hardly noticeable.

Test 5. I loaded some bricks in the back to bring the weight up to 450 kilo (~1,000 pounds). I didn’t notice the trailer except for two moments.

There was some road works and I had to stop on a steep up hill slope. As I accelerated away, I noticed the weight at the back.

At one point I was going down a slope and came to a stop at a corner right at the base of the hill. I noticed the weight as I came to a stop.

Results:

The engine revs and the gear selection hardly changed for tests 1-4. The revs are typically I the 1,500 – 2,000 RPM range. In test 5, as I headed up a steep slope, from a standing start, the revs almost reached 3,000 RPM. On the open road the revs hardly varied from test to test.

Another measurement is the height from the ground to the fenders measured over the axles.

For tests 1-4 the front measurement was 94.0 cm and for the back 93.5 cm

For test 5 the front measurement was 94.5 cm and for the back 93.0 cm



I conclude that my 2 door Jeep can tow 450 kilo easily.

I am aware that a tear drop trailer can act like a sail and pick up a cross wind or the wind from a passing truck. I was unable to test that. Tear drop trailers are popular so I could not rent one.

Any comments?

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NatersXJ6

Explorer
I would personally add brakes and a brake controller, even if your local jurisdiction doesn’t require them. Almost any vehicle can tow comfortably when things are going well, it is the other times that you wish you had more braking or independent trailer braking.
 

vintageracer

To Infinity and Beyond!
I think you are WAY over analyzing (worrying) about the safe towing capacity of your Jeep.

Pulling is never an issue it's that stopping part that can present a problem.

As stated above by these 2 well respected off-roaders:

Add electric brakes to the trailer, a brake controller, learn how to use the brake controller and hit the trail!
 

jadmt

ignore button user
I towed a tent top trailer with a 1600lb gvwr all over Montana, idaho, Utah and colorado with a 2016 2 door rubicon with no problem. I was probably pretty close to the GVWR of the trailer on occasions and i would say at minimum 1200lbs. most of the time. While I did not have trailer brakes on it I never felt I needed them. I did go out and practiced panic stops straight line and I never felt like it was over powering me. I do think trailer brakes are a good thing but the trailer did not come with them. When I moved to a heavier Aliner it came with them and I used them. I am surprised the tow rating is that low as my 2016 JKR was higher. Are your sure yours is not 2000lbs?
 

1000arms

Well-known member
You might find "Building a Teardrop Trailer: Plans and Methods for Crafting an Heirloom Camper" useful. It was written by forum member @Teardropper.

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I also strongly suggest electric brakes on the trailer, a brake controller in the Jeep, and the knowledge to make good use of the brake controller. Many forum members have already posted this information, but, I think it is so important that I will repeat it! :)
 

pith helmet

Well-known member
i have towed lots of trailers, large and small for non recreational purposes. not sure where OP is planning to tow, but there is no way i would go anywhere mountainous or even hilly without trailer brakes or lights. if you've ever found yourself puckered up in a 'tail-wags-dog' scenario, you'll never want revisit it.
 

Joe98

New member
Thank you all.
It seems some trailer brakes can be controlled by a blue tooth controller switch. This is attractive to me.
I have also learnt that if the wheels are too small you can't get trailer brakes at all!
This is the van I have in mind. The terrain will be a bit rougher than this.



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billiebob

Well-known member
100,000 miles on this combination in the mountains of BC. It holds my tools for work. 10 years later I still love it.
2000#, no trailer brakes. Learn to drive and look ahead, predict the need to slow. PS, I live in deer country.

I'm only critical of trailer brakes in bad weather or off road. On a clear day on the Interstate they work well altho on a clear day on the Interstate........ you can see forever. Off road, off camber if they lock who knows where the trailer will end up. At low speeds, off road. At Interstate speeds in bad weather, rain, snow, black ice, compact snow...... unless you took the effort to adjust the trailer brake controller..... a skidding trailer tire will try to pass the ABS controlled tow vehicle.

BUT definitely do not tow more han you are comfortable towing. Definitely use trailer brakes once you understand their short comings.

I think my TJR, rated to tow 2000# is the best tow vehicle ever. It has no trailer brakes and I do not miss them.

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Especially in winter conditions..... this is where I do not want trailer brakes.

DSCN2854.jpeg

This is the 1500# Square Drop in August in Alberta without trailer brakes.

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billiebob

Well-known member
Thank you all.
It seems some trailer brakes can be controlled by a blue tooth controller switch. This is attractive to me.
I have also learnt that if the wheels are too small you can't get trailer brakes at all!
This is the van I have in mind. The terrain will be a bit rougher than this.



View attachment 682627
love the Subaru, looks just like ours, they are fabulous cars

DSCN2916.jpeg
 

rnArmy

Adventurer
Another vote for a brake controller.

You should be able to adjust the amount of braking the controller does for the trailer, whether it is a blue-tooth model, or one that mounts to the dash. So your trailer's brakes can be very mild or much stronger - your choice. With mine, the harder/quicker you're stopping, the sooner they kick-in to the maximum amount you set it too. Both of my Jeeps (and my truck) are wired for a dash-mounted P3 unit (which I've had for a few years and have been very happy with it):

Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 4 Axles - Proportional Tekonsha Trailer Brake Controller 90195 (etrailer.com)

I can adjust how much braking effort the trailer gets, and how soon it reaches the maximum it is set to. I can also (by way of a lever on the P3 unit) slide it over so I get maximum braking effort right away from the trailer if the situation calls for it. It will also (after a few seconds when stopped), keep a bit of braking effort going on the trailer (nice when stopped on a hill).

Don't you think your Jeep (when pulling the trailer) would like a braking little assistance when coming to a stop? Or when stopped on a hill? Fully loaded and wet (gas & water tanks and cooler full) my trailer weighs about 1200 lbs. My Jeeps appreciate the help the trailer brakes give them. I appreciate the braking assistance when towing.

And on a totally unrelated note... my wife drives a 2017 Subaru Crosstrek. She loves it. She's put a lot of miles on it so far, and no issues.

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Willys and trailer.4 (2).jpg
 
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Tadpole

New member
You'll be fine without trailer brakes but you'll like it better with brakes. You can turn down the gain if you want less action on the trailer.

Not the best picture but I pulled a popup all over the country with a 2 door JK Wrangler...

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vtsoundman

OverAnalyzer
Stop over thinking.

The biggest issue with your testing is dynamics. Tongue weight will be different, wind resistance, CoG, etc - all of this will be different in your final trailer - but youre weights are so little, I wouldn't stop with plan.

Stay at or under your 750kg limit, keep the frontal area down (below spec), get some trailer brakes, AND keep the tongue weight around 10% - 15% (also at or below spec)... and call it bananas.

The brakes help is all sorts of situations - on road and off. Don't cheap out.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk
 

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