Thoughts on Non-Land Rover axles on a Classic?

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
Since I have upgraded my Drivetrain, I've been thinking about running Dana axles under my LWB Classic. What are your thoughts? I've upgraded everything to 24 spline, but I'm afraid it's just going to break again.

Tanks
 

David Harris

Expedition Leader
Since I have upgraded my Drivetrain, I've been thinking about running Dana axles under my LWB Classic. What are your thoughts? I've upgraded everything to 24 spline, but I'm afraid it's just going to break again.

Tanks

I don't think it would break if you use high strength aftermarket parts. The 6.2 diesel is not a powerhouse. It was built for better economy. It only has about 140 HP and 250 ft. lbs of torque. No more than a Rover V8. Plus you are running an auto trans which is easier on things.
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
I'm kind of considering 35x12.50 tires. ha ha. Seems like the cost to upgrade the axles might be about the same as putting some D60's or Rubicon axles under it.

The torque killed one rear open 10 spline axle last time in Moab, I just put 24 splines in it. I wasn't even trying hard to climb up a waterfall, it just pinged and I had front wheel drive. Luckily my friend towed me out to the road.
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
For 35x12.50, Dana 44s would be a consideration. Of course they'll need to be upgraded accordingly. If you can find a pair out of a Quadratrac Wagonner, then they've got the offset already. Not that it matters, but it makes me feel better.

Otherwise, you have an advantage of passenger drop for the front axle, leaving a lot out there. Beyond that, you are looking at K10/K20 Chevy axles. which are plentiful. Once again, they'll need to be fully rebuilt and beefed up. But common with common parts. Actually, many of the K10s from the late 70s were "full time" 4WD. I forget if they have CVs up front or not. They were equipped with the NP203 transfer case.

Lastly, FJ80 axles are a popular swap. CVs, offset, strong, and good aftermarket. If you can manage this, go for it. Non-locker axle sets are more common, which might be good. Throw Detroit/tru-trac in there. 4.56 gears or 4.88 gears would be awesome with that tire setup as well.
 

Red90

Adventurer
Seems like the cost to upgrade the axles might be about the same as putting some D60's or Rubicon axles under it.

Not even CLOSE. The cost to go that route would be two to three times higher. There are no "stock" axles that you can throw in and be suitable for 35" tires. They will all need a lot of money put into them. It is much, much easier to put money into the existing axles.

If you are running stock 24 spline axles, you are exactly the same strength as the stock 10 spline axles. There is zero difference in strength with the stock parts.
 

mongosd2

Adventurer
dont waste your time trying to fit something under the truck that wasnt made for it...The HD stuff currently available for the axles under your truck are plenty strong enough to handle the 35's.

If you want to go custom, go Ruff Stuff/Land Cruiser FJ80, you get a 9.5 inch ring gear (use a rear diff in both the front and the rear) lock it with ARB's and you have the start of indestcuble axles. Get custom housings from Ruff Stuff or Diamond and cut them to Rover off-set, you can set the proper Camber and Caster and use high steer knuckles. You can get custon length axles from Front Range, CRMO CV's and go 30/30 spline all the way around. Not cheap...
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
Everyone does have a point. I have seen a lot of D1s and D2s running 35s without any problems (obviously different axles, but doable). Would be easier and cheaper to upgrade the current axles with RCVs, Ashcroft shafts, and "pegged" diffs or whatever its called. You'll have to buy all that crap anyway for the "new" axles.

Guess it depends on your wheeling style. You can run 35s stock for street (assuming all shafts are new). If you rock bounce, then no, it won't hold up.

Also look into a Salisbury rear axle. I think I remember seeing a take-out from a 110 in CO not too long ago. Do a disc brake swap, install rear detroit (because its super easy and cheap) and HD shafts. Get a custom Driveshaft made up, and you'll be way ahead. Brackets should be similar if not the same.
 

rrclassicbt550

Farmer Jon
I would recommend getting later Toyota Landcruiser FJ80 axles. They have a 4.10 ratio to help with running the bigger tires. They have are a bit wider. They have a high pinion front and full float rear. They can come with a factory E-locker in the front and the rear. The GVW is 500lbs higher than the original RRC axles. They can supposedly run up to 37" tires with little or no breakages. The diffs are also on the passenger side just like the Rover axles. The later ones are discs all around too. Their bolt pattern is a very common so wheel selection is endless. All you need to do, is clean off the brackets and put on new brackets. There is no need for customs axle shafts, or anything like that. They are fairly cheap. You can get parts and or have them serviced anywhere if you break them. Parts are fairly inexpensive. Their anatomy is very similar to the Rover stuff.
 
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I would recommend getting later Toyota Landcruiser FJ80 axles. They have a 4.10 ratio to help with running the bigger tires. They have are a bit wider. They have a high pinion front and full float rear. They can come with a factory E-locker in the front and the rear. The GVW is 500lbs higher than the original RRC axles. They can supposedly run up to 37" tires with little or no breakages. The diffs are also on the passenger side just like the Rover axles. The later ones are discs all around too. Their bolt pattern is a very common so wheel selection is endless. All you need to do, is clean off the brackets and put on new brackets. There is no need for customs axle shafts, or anything like that. They are fairly cheap. You can get parts and or have them serviced anywhere if you break them. Parts are fairly inexpensive. Their anatomy is very similar to the Rover stuff.

you could buy front and rear HD axles and CVs for what that fairly cheap front land cruiser e-locked axle will cost and you won't have to lifehack the steering linkage
 

rrclassicbt550

Farmer Jon
you could buy front and rear HD axles and CVs for what that fairly cheap front land cruiser e-locked axle will cost and you won't have to lifehack the steering linkage

There is a certain amount of truth to that. It would be much easier to buy upgraded internals and then there are no worries about steering.
But you would get lockers, a bolt pattern with more options, internals that don't have to be upgraded so replacement parts are cheap and abundant; as well, a wider track so you can still have a decent turning radius, and better gear ratio for running bigger tires. By the time you upgrade the Rover axles to that extent, the Land Cruiser axles are looking like a fairly viable option. IMHO.

I guess it all depends on the deal you get. I have seen more than one set of non-locked front and rear FJ80 axles go for under a thousand dollars. A front and rear set with factory lockers go for more usually but I have still seen them for between $1200-$2000.
 

abosely

Member
I modified FJ60 housings for my 69' SIIA build, shortened the long side and lengthened the short side, gives 4 wheel disc and FF rear, using the FJ60 diffs, RCV custom length axles, guaranteed for up to 40" tires, can order them in 300CM for even more strength.

IMG_1058.jpg
The front housing with sheet metal diff cover, welded 3/16" reinforcing ring on, drilling and tapping to bolt Ruff Stuff diff cover on front.
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With Ruff Stuff diff cover sitting in place, You can see the reinforcing ring and 4- Plus housing sleeve extension on short side and ring on long side.

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The Ruff Stuff Disc/FF flange where it will be welded on once my 300Tdi, Stubby R380, LT230 and Rocky Mountain parabolic spring arrive so U can set the pinion angle.

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With the front spindle sitting in place.
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The spindle with recess machined for the Marlin Crawler Eco seal to keep diff oil inside, running greased hub bearings like on front.

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With junk front hub sitting in place for mock-up.

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Marlin Crawler billet steering arm and 25mm steering pin upgrade kit. The two hex head studs are for the bottom billet cap, they just held it on for pic, those are two of the ARP 2000 studs, the other two will be put in when ready to actually use. IMG_6534.jpg
The lower billet cap that increase ground clearance about 3/4" and the grade 12.9 hex head studs. The bit of a cut is welded up and ground down now. :)IMG_4805.jpg

Cutting the rear housing flange weld so it could be slid off the housing.

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To reveal this machined surface on each end and was used to index off of the do the bit of machining.

I have a FB page 69' Series IIA Build, shows the build and more details about converting FJ60 housings so the pinion stays in same position side to side and much more. I widened the front axle 4" for a 59" WMS to WMS and the rear 2-1/2" to 57-1/2" WMS to WMS, they can be easily made wider or narrower. Anyway, just food for thought. :)

Cheers, Allen
 

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