Thoughts on Non-Land Rover axles on a Classic?

zelatore

Explorer
That's some nice work there Allen.

I'm running stock housings, detroit in the rear, ARB front, Toyota RCVs in the front, Ashcroft HD rear shafts. Was on 35s, just getting the 37s on it now. I did break an older rear GBR shaft (and twisted the other one at the splines) before switching to the Ashcrofts. We'll see how it holds up. I hate the idea of using Toyota parts just on principal but have to admit that looks pretty sexy.
 

abosely

Member
LOL I know what you mean Don, On one hand, I figure by the time everything finished there won't be much left of actual Toyota parts, most is custom stuff. I kind of think of FJ40/60 LC & LR Series as kissing cousins, with LR being the better cousin! lol
For me the cost for the ease of getting more strength there than I can really ever break and the availability, I live on Big Island Hawaii, makes it acceptable. Plus 4 wheel disc brakes with off the shelf parts is helpful here. The difference won't be real noticeable at a casual glance, I mean 6 lugs vs 5, but not like a built up housing and such.
Yours sounds like a nice set up.
Cheers, Allen
 

getlost4x4

Expedition Leader
I have have to upgrade fairly soon. Going to be around 400 ft lbs or more once I get the new motor finished up. I'm in tear down mode with it right now.
 

Ray_G

Explorer
By and large the LR HD stuff will get it done, the Toyota conversion was quite popular back in the days of Keith at Rovertracks-and is an extremely solid upgrade for a lot of reasons albeit not without some work.
 

polksfinest

Observer
I built what's called 609 axles it starts with a ford nine inch housing with Dana 60 outers. I am currently building a set with Land Rover outers I want to use the DI outers but I don't know if I could get the ABS to work if you have a set of Land Rover axles you can buy the housing for less than 300 new from summit racing I will send you pictures of it and price sheets for the total build not to mention you can get lockers for way cheaper
 

Red90

Adventurer
Keep in mind that KAM closed its doors last year. What was left of the company was bought by Terrafirma. I would be very careful with assuming anything supplied at this time is of the same quality as anything in the past.
 

99Discovery

Adventurer
Salisbury front and rear "are" DANA 60s. They were built under license, use metric units, and have a different spline count.

They'd be more "plug and play", but hard to find over here. If you could fit regular DANA 60s under your classic (which shouldn't be too hard compared to your engine swap), it'd be "true to Land Rover" in that the actual gearing/axle strength should be the same as a Salisbury setup.

Some links:
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php/215018-salisbury-vs-Dana60 (post 6)

And even listed on wikipedia:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_60
 

LR Max

Local Oaf
A 14 bolt axle is what you want in the rear. Cheap, plentiful, and extremely strong. They are huge but assuming you are doing large tires as well, then its worth it. Be careful as most stock FF Dana 60 rear axles are only 30 spline rears (1.25" diameter axles). The 14 bolt is 1.5" diameter axles. This is what you want. Oh and DO NOT buy a semi-float 14 bolt. Not worth the effort.

Typically I'd then say go buy a brand new Ford F350 axle. They are about $1100. Which is about what you'd spend on a crusty junkyard axle and then get it up to a condition you'd use. However the diff drop is wrong.

Really, just go get a set of axles out of a CUCV. Great setup. Strong, rear axle already has a diff locker, lots of info out there, cheap rear disc brake conversion kits on Pirate, the list goes on. Oh and 4.10 gears out of the box.
 

fishEH

Explorer
I ran 35's on HD Rover axles without issue. Never had it in Moab, though. Ran an old set of RoverTracks rear axles and Tibus fronts.
 

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