this 20 ton bottle jack? this air compressor?

LosAngeles

Active member
this 20 ton bottle jack? this air compressor?

Hi all - I have a F350 crew cab long bed gasser, with a pop up truck camper always on it, that is about 2,700 lbs wet.

If I happen to get a flat tire… it is my understanding that the Ford OEM jack wont be appropriate to jack up the truck with the camper on it.

Would this 20 ton bottle jack be good?


Anything else I need?

also - novice question - any other tips for how to safely jack up the truck to swap a wheel?

and secondly… I need an air compressor for blowing out the air lines in our pop up camper when I winterize it…. also on the chance that I need to air down the tires due to sand … I need a compressor to be able to air back up. They are 18” All Terrain Wranglers. LT 275 / 70R x 18 E

VIAAIR have been recommended. Supposedly this is a good size for my tires.


Any thoughts on this model?

Thanks :)
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
I would suggest a 6T two stage bottle jack. Lighter, higher lift, starts lower.
For a compressor, I use this PXO7. https://bossairsuspension.com.au/12-volt-air-compressors/ Maybe it is available in the US?
I would also suggest a pressure switch, water trap and a small accumulator tank.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
EDIT> can't quickly find a 6T, but this 4T is probably quite sufficient.
 
Last edited:

Buddha.

Finally in expo white.
What year truck do you have? The jack the comes with the super duty trucks is nice. I keep one in the shop, 4t I think.
 

LosAngeles

Active member
Update - someone pointed out that I’d need to jack up the truck/pop up truck camper combo from the axle, (?) so I’d need a * cradle * to do it safely. (?)

Yes this kit is expensive, but it comes highly recommended by a number of people, as being very safe.

I hope to be traveling and RVing for many many years to come, and safety is priceless to me.

thoughts? Never mind the price. :)

They are currently 20% off, (back ordered 2 weeks) so the 20% off takes the sting out. and happy to support a small business.


Do I want to add the UNIVERSAL BOTTLE JACK BASE ? $40.

Also I understand I should carry a basic jack stand with me, to put in place, after the corner is jacked up, to be extra safe. Any recommendations? Bonus points for an Amazon link (yes it will be weeks ‘till I get it)

Thanks!
 

Alloy

Well-known member
$270...ouch

I carry a 8T ($40) under the back seat plus the factory jack that I've tested. The screw on a 8 ton doesn't bend/flex when extended all the way.

The 8 ton is for emergency use. I use a floor jack when swapping summer/winter tires but I will test the 8T to make sure it is working (lifts to full height) when swapping tires.

A 20T would be painfully slow.

Also have 4pcs of 1" x 8"x 8" plywood behind the back seat that will sit on piles of sand/snow/rock/wood in an emergency.

Compressors- Viair Dual 400C kit bought on sale for $60 more that the cost of a single 400C. This provided redundancy and was cheaper than buying single a better built compressor.


Jacking-
-E brake on.
- Break the nuts loose first.
- When possible place the jack (check owner's manual) under the axle/suspension. Not the body or frame. This will reduce the amount the jack needs to extend.
-Practice.

When the wheels are off place a tiny (3 grains of rice) amount of grease on the studs (not the nuts). This prevents things from rusting together.

Carry a socket/extension/torque wrench.

Don't exceed the MFG torque spec....... more tight isn't better.r

Write the torque number on each wheel with a Sharpie marker.

You'll need an air tank to be able to blow out the waterlines and a regulator to reduce the pressure to 50psi.
 
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LosAngeles

Active member
$270...ouch

I carry a 8T ($40) under the back seat plus the factory jack that I've tested. The screw on a 8 ton doesn't bend/flex when extended all the way.

The 8 ton is for emergency use. I use a floor jack when swapping summer/winter tires but I will test the 8T to make sure it is working (lifts to full height) when swapping tires.

A 20T would be painfully slow.

Also have 4pcs of 1" x 8"x 8" plywood behind the back seat that will sit on piles of sand/snow/rock/wood in an emergency.

Compressors- Viair Dual 400C kit bought on sale for $60 more that the cost of a single 400C. This provided redundancy and was cheaper than buying single a better built compressor.


Jacking-
-E brake on.
- Break the nuts loose first.
- When possible place the jack (check owner's manual) under the axle/suspension. Not the body or frame. This will reduce the amount the jack needs to extend.
-Practice.

When the wheels are off place a tiny (3 grains of rice) amount of grease on the studs (not the nuts). This prevents things from rusting together.

Carry a socket/extension/torque wrench.

Don't exceed the MFG torque spec....... more tight isn't better.r

Write the torque number on each wheel with a Sharpie marker.

You'll need an air tank to be able to blow out the waterlines and a regulator to reduce the pressure to 50psi.

Thanks much for all the great info. Super helpful. :)

So the RV manufacturer showed me a very specific way to open all the water fixtures in the RV, and set to 1/2 cold 1/2 warm so both lines will get blown out...

also to close off special valves *before* the water heater, so it 100% shields the water heater from the pressure.....

and take the head off the shower hose, so I dont have to hold it open.... and for safety.... so it is always open....

and then when I attach the compressor to the city water supply.... it will be safe, at any pressure, if I follow the above protocol

so in that case... seems like I likely dont need a pressure regulator? and no air tank.... (i would much prefer no air tank, so much more portable, so I can carry with me)

sound cool?

thanks. :)
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
this 20 ton bottle jack? this air compressor?

Hi all - I have a F350 crew cab long bed gasser, with a pop up truck camper always on it, that is about 2,700 lbs wet.

If I happen to get a flat tire… it is my understanding that the Ford OEM jack wont be appropriate to jack up the truck with the camper on it.

Would this 20 ton bottle jack be good?


Anything else I need?

also - novice question - any other tips for how to safely jack up the truck to swap a wheel?

and secondly… I need an air compressor for blowing out the air lines in our pop up camper when I winterize it…. also on the chance that I need to air down the tires due to sand … I need a compressor to be able to air back up. They are 18” All Terrain Wranglers. LT 275 / 70R x 18 E

VIAAIR have been recommended. Supposedly this is a good size for my tires.


Any thoughts on this model?

Thanks :)
I've had a Viair for 20 yrs now. Works perfectly every time and quality built aside from the nozzle. The lever is kind of brittle and will break with time. That model looks bulletproof. Concerning the safe way to jack up the truck I use a small piece of plywood. Loosen the lugs a bit while the tire is on the ground. Also remove your spare while the vehicle has the tire still mounted. You won't need much air for that small tire. Mine can inflate four 35's from 30 psi to 55 psi in less than the 20 minute duty cycle.
UTube's your friend. I wouldn't short change the compressor.
Carry a crossbar lug wrench with you. No moving parts an works everytime.
 
Last edited:

WOODY2

Adventurer
Get a piece of 3/4 plywood about 12"x12" to use as a base it will help keep the jack from going into the ground and it stores easily.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
And do yourself a favor and measure the distance from ground to the underside of the axle tube, then subtract your sidewall height.
You need to make sure that, even on pavement, you can get the bottlejack in there if you have a flat.

I run 12T for my Superduty. We weigh in at 12k or so wet and fully loaded.
Could have done with much less, but the 12T I found is a shorter form factor.

Some bottle jacks are simply too tall.

For compressors, I run a 100% duty cycle Viar with a 3 gallon tank.
Certainly not the fastest, but it is robust, and I'm never in a hurry.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Thanks much for all the great info. Super helpful. :)

So the RV manufacturer showed me a very specific way to open all the water fixtures in the RV, and set to 1/2 cold 1/2 warm so both lines will get blown out...

also to close off special valves *before* the water heater, so it 100% shields the water heater from the pressure.....

and take the head off the shower hose, so I dont have to hold it open.... and for safety.... so it is always open....

and then when I attach the compressor to the city water supply.... it will be safe, at any pressure, if I follow the above protocol

so in that case... seems like I likely dont need a pressure regulator? and no air tank.... (i would much prefer no air tank, so much more portable, so I can carry with me)

sound cool?

thanks. :)

I "like to" drain ( OPEN - pull the leaver on the pressure relief valve to relive any pressure first!!! ) the water tank after each trip. Draining the tank saves the (we've a Suburban heater with a steel tank) anode/tank, drains the crud out, prevent the sulfur (bad smell when showering) build up and it won't freeze. To fill the tank I connect to the city water (water goes through a 5 & 1 micron filters) and let the water flush it out then put the plug (another socket to carry along with Teflon tape) in.

Air/water adapter

It won't be safe as the cutoff pressure for the compressor might be too high. It's cost $15- $25 for a regulator. The MFG should have tested to system to 100psi.


I don't use the bypass valve (hard to get at) but using would save air consumption. Since I don't use the bypass I have to put the drain plug back in (finger tight) to blow the system out.

You'll need allot of air (MFG isn't using 12V compressor(s)) with all valves open which will heat up the (wear and tear) 12V compressor. I do one faucet 2-3 times each depending on the amount of water that comes out, letting the compressors catch up then do the same for the toilet and low point drains.

Once the air is disconnected:
- open all the faucets (hot and cold) as well as the low point drains
- pull the HW tank drain out.
- pour 4 cups of low temp windshield washer fluid through the toilet to protect the dump valve. Leave 1/2c in the toilet.
- pour 4 cups in each sink/shower to prevent the traps from freezing
- ***Disconnect the both hoses from the water pump and run it

I've upgraded Viair intake filter.

 
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Robert Bills

Explorer
To @LosAngeles:

The Viair 400P-Automatic portable compressor you are considering is a good unit. If you don't really need the "automatic" feature (and trust me you really don't), you can save quite a bit of money by purchasing the 400P instead. (Currently $158 on Amazon Prime.) It has exactly the same output.

8104YE166NL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/VIAIR-40043-400P-Portable-Compressor/dp/B000X9AXR8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3PXQJMXWI2WE7&dchild=1&keywords=400p+viair&qid=1586301786&s=automotive&sprefix=400p,automotive,231&sr=1-1

I own two Viair units - a 400P portable kit that I have used for many years, and a 400H hard mounted under the hood of my jeep.

For the 400P I ditched the coiled air hose and chuck that came with the kit and replaced them with a 1/4" x 25' Flexzilla hose and an open flow chuck. Much better.

51zzAXeTZzL._AC_SL1200_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BT2SIY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

519%2BB8yDxoL._AC_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017S44ARO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


For an air pressure gauge I use an Accu-Gage 0-60 psi dial gauge and also this digital gauge, which I use most often:

31VU9qK8RfL._AC_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR6Y58X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My Viair 400P with DIY inflator/deflator:

Complete Inflation System.jpg


My Viair 400H mounted on my Jeep:

Compressor Installation.jpg
[
 

GHI

Adventurer
I "like to" drain ( OPEN - pull the leaver on the pressure relief valve to relive any pressure first!!! ) the water tank after each trip. Draining the tank saves the (we've a Suburban heater with a steel tank) anode/tank, drains the crud out, prevent the sulfur (bad smell when showering) build up and it won't freeze. To fill the tank I connect to the city water (water goes through a 5 & 1 micron filters) and let the water flush it out then put the plug (another socket to carry along with Teflon tape) in.

Air/water adapter

It won't be safe as the cutoff pressure for the compressor might be too high. It's cost $15- $25 for a regulator. The MFG should have tested to system to 100psi.


I don't use the bypass valve (hard to get at) but using would save air consumption. Since I don't use the bypass I have to put the drain plug back in (finger tight) to blow the system out.

You'll need allot of air (MFG isn't using 12V compressor(s)) with all valves open which will heat up the (wear and tear) 12V compressor. I do one faucet 2-3 times each depending on the amount of water that comes out, letting the compressors catch up then do the same for the toilet and low point drains.

Once the air is disconnected:
- open all the faucets (hot and cold) as well as the low point drains
- pull the HW tank drain out.
- pour 4 cups of low temp windshield washer fluid through the toilet to protect the dump valve. Leave 1/2c in the toilet.
- pour 4 cups in each sink/shower to prevent the traps from freezing
- ***Disconnect the both hoses from the water pump and run it

I've upgraded Viair intake filter.

My man. Thanks for the link. I’ve been pondering blowing my lines out. Normally just pump the pink stuff through the water pump.
 

GHI

Adventurer
Thanks Los Angeles for this thread. I’ve been eyeballing that bottle jack for a while, but kind of forgot having only been victim to one flat tire years ago. 20% off is a wake up call for me to finally make a move.

Also, thank you Robert Bills. I bought a Viair a few years back based on your recommendation. It hasn’t had a hiccup yet.
 

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