Thirteen days in the Sahara

netllama

Observer
This is so amazing. I was just reading about the western sahara area and then stumble across this.

I am fascinated by the water situation. I read about wells and how there are wells manned by people, I believe? How deep are these wells?

Are there any modern day houses or like, compounds built in the middle of these deserts? I know it sounds stupid but I always wondered if there were some millionaires out there building remote desert compounds with their own private wells, solar panels, helicopter landing pads, etc? Like the kind of stuff you see in movies......


None of the wells that I saw had anyone 'manning' them. Some were near villages, where I guess someone might be caring for them, but nothing had a dedicated person.

I never saw any modern architecture outside of the larger towns & cities. Doesn't mean it didn't exist, but seems unlikely that anyone with a lot of money would want to be living somehwere with a very high cost of living. It would be extremely expensive to manage logistics, not to mention having to run a generator (and get fuel) all the time just for power.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
This is so amazing. I was just reading about the western sahara area and then stumble across this.

I am fascinated by the water situation. I read about wells and how there are wells manned by people, I believe? How deep are these wells?

Are there any modern day houses or like, compounds built in the middle of these deserts? I know it sounds stupid but I always wondered if there were some millionaires out there building remote desert compounds with their own private wells, solar panels, helicopter landing pads, etc? Like the kind of stuff you see in movies......

Not sure why wells would be manned? All the native people I met cheerfully help each other and I felt no selflessness to others. In addition none of the nomads we met in the dunes asked for anything and were very appreciative of everything we offered them.

This well was about 30' deep.


IMG_1078.JPG
 

J!m

Active member
That reminds me of one time, camping in the desert when a nomad wandered into our camp with his flock/herd of goats...

We gave him a Coke and he had no idea what to do with it!
 

Latetom

Observer
Thanks for the photos and trip report. We will cross the border from the Western Sahara into Mauritania sometime around 1 March 2019. We intend to spend our first night in Nouakchott. For the first time in the almost 3 yrs we have been driving the world we decided to hire a tour company to show us Mauritania. I am not overly worried about the U.S. Department of State Stage 3 Warning but the family is always worried about their 67 & 70 year old parents in this hostile, scary, bad people world we live in. Side note: We have been driving Italy, Germany, France and now Spain -- all Stage 2 but the family worries because we are headed toward Morocco, Senegal and The Gambia all Stage 1 warning countries -- go figure.

If it isn't an issue, who did you hire to drive you through M?

If I followed your trip report you made the drive from Tidjikja to Atar/etc on the map shown as a dirt track and then the dirt track along the railroad tracks from roughly Choum to Nouadhitou. Are these tracks "well marked" or "good luck" or "are you crazy" to drive? Thinking out loud it seems the track along the railroad track might be good luck whereas the Tidjikja to Atar would be are you crazy.

Before we decided to work with a tour company we were going to drive to Tidjikja and the nearby rock art and then double back to Nouakchott and make the drive to Atar and then double back to Nouakchott. Your drive appears to be more interesting.

Next up is reading your Senegal Trip Report. After Mauritania we will drive Senegal, The Gambia, Senegal, Mauritania, Morocco. Am always looking for information so if you have another source please don't hesitate to post it.
 

netllama

Observer
My tour was arranged with La Gueila Voyages ( http://lagueila.com ). Its also a guesthouse (auberge) in Chinguetti run by a French woman.

I'd strongly discourage doubling back to Noakchott, as its a lot of extremely boring driving, and when you add in all the police checkpoints (expecting fiches), you will waste a lot of time. But to answer your question there are no marked or signed roads other than the few paved/sealed national roads. Once you go off pavement, you're on your own, and at the mercy of your GPS. The route from Choum to Nouadhibou is actually one of the few that isn't too bad, as you always have the actual railroad tracks to follow (plus it even has distance marker signs). I'd say its somewhere between "well marked" & "good luck".

Everywhere else there are no obvious indicators, and the terrain can get difficult, or impossible without warning. I'm not just referring to deep sand dunes, but mountain ranges, cliffs & canyons, all of which will frustrate you, if not add significant time to your travel if you don't know how or where to cross them. This is "are you crazy" territory. If you break down, it could be days, weeks or who knows how long until someone else comes along (and that someone else might be some nomad on a camel who may be days or weeks away from returning to civilization to call you assistance). Its not for no reason that Mauritania is generally considered to be one of the last traditional Saharan societies. You need to have a ton of experience, not just in the desert, but traveling through Mauritania to have the skills & knowledge to survive there.

As for Senegal, I rode a KTM motorbike south from Dakar, through Gambia, all the way to Bissau. Most of that route was well marked, and is fairly easy to follow (or at least a GPS will get the job done) I'd be happy to answer specific questions that you have.
 

Latetom

Observer
Thanks for the reply. I think we will use a guide (tour) and limit our driving along the coast going North to South and three or four weeks later going South to North. Read you Senegal Trip Report. Most people (Lonely Planet) say skip The Gambia because of some of the issues you outlined. However, we are birders and want to bird this county so I will just have to double my patience pills on the day we cross the border from Senegal into The Gambia.
 

AlfredNORBERT

New member
It's great :D I want someday to find myself in a desert (with enough water supplies, of course) and in a car. By the way, I understand that the Internet connection in the desert absents. But what about Mauritania in general? Do I need the best vpn mac to enter my FB and YouTube? I just think it all might be blocked there.
 

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