The SHapeSHifter, a work Vuck (vantruck), expedition camper jig.

Pinnacle Campers

Chateau spotter
Like many on this forum I have a thirst for adventure travel. Over the past couple years, I have built up my I'M BATVAN! for that use.
During that time, I have used the van for work duties too. As a remodeling contractor the v10 powered, 4x4, 1-ton van has been great for trailer pulling, in and out of jobsites, etc. But “work” takes its toll on things. Point being, it’s a tough balance for vehicles to wear so many hats.
So, I needed a “work truck” again.
The steel body of the van and single pane glass has compromises on the camping side of the pro/con list as well. At some point I decided a dedicated camper was in my future. In fact, I would like to do some long-term expedition/overland/global travel in my future (like 8-10 years), and my goal is for the vehicle to be designed and assembled by myself and my “team”. Those trip plans are a long way down the road. But why wait? When it can be used and tested now. At the same time maybe, this will just be a prototype or proof of concept for a future build, there are a lot of mistakes to make and things to learn I’m sure.
So I needed a “base vehicle”.
Being a carpenter by trade, and a hobbyist mechanic the only clear option is a “BMO” (Build My Own) scenario. I do have some upcoming projects that will be used as tests for my box construction methods and techniques shortly.
You could maybe think of this vehicle as a “jig” for the camper build. With the camper box potentially ending up on a different (E-series) chassis altogether. Quite frankly, with the newly built flatbed sized specifically for this vehicle the bed has little worth elsewhere.
I will elaborate more on the details of the camper box plans later as it becomes a more immediate project.
So what vehicle to chose that has familiarity, will be good for work, trailer towing, etc. in the near term and be a good base vehicle candidate to design a camper/expedition camper around?
How about a 2011 Ford E350 cutaway chassis? Haha, it looks ridiculous!
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This is a retired ambulance that had its box removed (and refitted to a new chassis) just before my purchase.
I have often wondered why the E350/450 cutaway chassis aren’t used more often as an “expedition” chassis. I mean it is the best selling, longest running line of motorhome chassis in the US.
Maybe it’s the stigma it has gotten from that “stick and staple” RV industry itself? or, ?
Obviously, there are the service issues for this chassis in a RTW scenario. In my case, I think chassis familiarity and the ability to acquire parts anywhere in the world from anywhere in the world (with an internet connection) can overcome this.
Maybe it’s the fact that the chassis never came with an engageable front axle from the factory?
With 4x4 chassis converters and now even a couple options for DIY 4x4 conversions, this isn’t such a big issue. Build it from mild to wild.
Regardless, there will be many good used or refurbishable chassis available for a long time, and new until 2021 I think.
Multiple motors to choose from over the years.
This chassis is equipped with the 6.8L V10. In my current E350 daily driver I have found it to be dependable for the last 55K miles.
Its really hard to get around the poor fuel mileage in this weight category. I prefer gas (over diesel).
I don’t see it as being my best/final motor choice for the end use of this vehicle, though I think this motor will work fine for this project.
The motor is cheap to replace, or the chassis can be re-powered with something else relatively easily.
It has a between the frame rails 40 gallon tank, I think its ample. It could possibly be increased to a 55 gallon with that size available in the longer wheel base cutaways, or one could add a van style mid-ship tank of 28 gallons (after cutting it down to fit the transfer case) or an aftermarket mid ship tank of 35-46 gallons bringing total potential capacity to the 100 gal. ballpark.
This motor is equipped with dual alternators and is backed by a 5 speed auto. The same 5r110 transmission in my current e350.
I purchased the chassis from Arrow Manufacturing in Rock Rapids, Iowa. They were easy to deal with, owner of the company even picked me up from the airport 45 miles away.
They have many chassis on site and coming in regularly. They even had a 2003 e350 7.3L diesel with 34K miles. Another great option.

Part of my “testing” is to first off build a flatbed. Not because I plan to build the camper box on the flatbed but more importantly I need something to cover the frame rails for now.
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Semi simultaneously I will be removing the front suspension and installing an engageable Dana 60 front axle from a F250/350 pickup, new shocks/springs, rear suspension adjusted for final ride height and to convert from the dually wheel setup to single rear wheel offset type wheel all the way around. I will install the transfer case and driveshafts at a later date.
Initially just get it looking decent, on the road, and earning its keep.
As the plans are being developed for that and parts acquired, I decided to tackle a rear bumper project.
The box tail lights were temporarily mounted to the frame (not to mention the double 2x4 mudflap hangers Arrow provided for the drive home) so I wanted something more permanent to the chassis as the possibility of a couple mounts and re-mounts of the bed/box could be in my future.
The bumper design is something I saw on expo a while back (casa azul maybe?), a 4” tube bumper with cutouts and taillights protected inside the bumper tube.
Hoping that my overall estimated future dimensions are correct I chopped about 16” off the chassis frame rails with my plasma cutter.
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Cut off the lower smaller flange, I then flipped them over and attached to my frame. To be sandwiched by a brand new tow receiver.
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I also cut a profile into the new bumper supports to cradle the tube bumper itself and welded everything up.
I cut some holes in the tube for a pair of tail lights with the plasma using a cardboard tube as the jig.
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….and used some expanded mesh in the bumper cutouts. Here I'm using raw weld-on stake pockets to pull the mesh into the holes. Brackets are tacked inside for the LED taillights.
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Installed some 4 way, LED, taillights from superbrightleds.com
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For now, I just shot the bumper with rattle can satin black. I have plans to expand on the bumper later with tow/extraction points and a spare tire mount. Ahead of the bumper above the receiver is a nice open spot, rear mounted winch? Winch reminds me, I wouldn't mind taking on some sponsors with this "project vehicle". There are a lot of parts and pieces (I've started a list) that will go into this thing in order to make it "expedition worthy". For inquiries PM me.
I also shot the cab with Oxford white Raptor liner. Not really sure why its white, other than wanting to get rid of the orange stripe, I didn’t want to paint the door/hood jambs.
Here is a preview into where I’m at now. I will go into more detail in future posts regarding the F/R axle installs and the flatbed build.
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North

Observer
Looks great!

Just curious, any specific reason you chose the van cutaway over a 4x4 pickup? Seems like building a flatbed pickup would be easier than building the van + adding 4x4?

Asking because I'd like to do something similar someday, and would be happy to know what I'm missing van vs truck.
 

Pinnacle Campers

Chateau spotter
Looks great!

Just curious, any specific reason you chose the van cutaway over a 4x4 pickup? Seems like building a flatbed pickup would be easier than building the van + adding 4x4?

Asking because I'd like to do something similar someday, and would be happy to know what I'm missing van vs truck.

As a work truck just about anything would have worked. It was the expo camper side that had more specific wants/needs.
First wanting a pass through, or more specifically the integrated box to cab for the extra overall space during nice weather. Also the taller cab and higher seat pedestals/seating position works better with cab/cabin integration.
Most importantly, the E-series cabs are 20" shorter. So for the same overall length you get more cabin space.
This also comes at a cost of less accessibility to the motor for repairs.
I did consider numerous trucks like the one below, would have been a lot less work to get where I am now.
It isn't quite as cool/unique though IMO. There isn't much if any of a $ savings going the route I went.502975
 

Paddy

Adventurer
Wow what a jump from A-B! That thing looks so ************! Love it. Are you going to use a flatbed poptop camper?
 

Pinnacle Campers

Chateau spotter
Part of my “testing” is to first off build a flatbed. Not because I plan to build the camper box on the flatbed but more importantly I need something to cover the frame rails for now.
View attachment 502693
Wow what a jump from A-B! That thing looks so ************! Love it. Are you going to use a flatbed poptop camper?
Thanks, No flatbed camper, although it does seem like the easy way out.
So what is the deal with the flatbed anyways?
For the most part I don't need a functional pickup bed. The truck mostly pulls trailers.
I had this vision in my head of this flatbed which is similar in proportion to Chris's V4 http://ujointoffroad.com/ujorv4.html
The construction techniques would be something like a proof of concept for a camper box subframe/floor.
Armed with some scribbled drawings, some carpentry skills, and a recent interest in epoxy and fiberglass I got to work.
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When I said this truck is a jig I wasn't kidding. This is the headboard (transom?) and the first two joists (stringers?).
I might have read to many boat building books recently.....
If I was building a camper subframe I would likely be using a structural foam like Thermolite
For this project I was going cheap, using the cheapest CDX type plywood I could find.
I basically precut everything, then coated all sides with penetrating epoxy then finally 5:1 epoxy.
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Then the pieces were bonded together with the help of some 16g nails and some screws.
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Every joint was filleted with glass fiber/ thickened epoxy then 4" fiberglass tape was laid up on all of those joints.
Here are the joist spanning the area from the headboard to the first double joists over the pass through storage. Each of these 4" joists were laid up with 4" fiberglass folded over the bottom edge for strength.
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Here you can see the 3/4" top plywood being applied. Thickened epoxy on all edges, then filleted.
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Looking closer at the seams. I used 4" fiberglass tape on all the seams. After precutting the piece, I used a portable planer to take some material off the top surface within a couple inches of the edge. Similar to drywall sheets, this allows taping without building up the height of the seam.
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Pinnacle Campers

Chateau spotter
At this point I ordered some NOS cargo doors off ebay. Once they arrived I cut the side skins from 3/8" ply.
After this I thought to myself, maybe I'm not so crazy after all.IMG_0768.JPG
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Here you can see the side skins. The wheel opening edge was thickened with 3/4 ply (1 1/8" total), the whole panel is precoated with epoxy in and out.
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Rounded over the top edge, then wrapped 4" tape around the top corner, then side rail to side skin.
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The green is filler. You can see it in the seams on the top.
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For the head board, I dadoed a piece of oak to cover, thicken, and strengthen the edge.
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Pinnacle Campers

Chateau spotter
With the help of neighbors and friends I removed the bed and flipped it over.
You can see here, the mounting points, angle aluminum. The attachment point to the bed is drilled with steel epoxy sleeves. These will mount to the factory locations using the OEM mounting hardware/bushings.
I also plan on using this to mess around with various types of captured spring type mounting systems, evaluate chassis flex, etc.

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Again, every joint, is filleted, and laid up with 4" tape and epoxy.
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Where the pass through is, the mounts go through the plywood floor. I built up these areas as a spacer and for strength. You can also see the steel sleeves here for the mounts. All outside corners rounded over and laid up with fiberglass tape.
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Pinnacle Campers

Chateau spotter
The primer sure cleans things up.
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I used Totalboat Topside primer, http://www.totalboat.com/product/topside-primer/
I applied it with a brush and roller.
The green filler is Totalboat Totalfair http://www.totalboat.com/product/totalfair/
Its two parts, yellow and blue make green, easy. It sticks, and sands well.
Most of the sanding was done with a Makita 5" DA sander, although I tried to do as little sanding as possible. All of the bonding or new epoxy areas were roughed up prior to new applications of epoxy so there was a fair share.
I also didn't paint or primer the underside core, or the inside.
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The black Monstaliner. Monstaliner is a 2 part epoxy.
My temp paint booth is a ez up canopy and half in my garage.
I sprayed the Monstaliner with an undercoating gun and back rolled it, 2 coats, 6 gallons total.
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Here with the mounting brackets back on
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You can see the fiberglass tape lines here on the bottom but you would be hard pressed to find any on the exposed area sides and top.
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Now with it flipped back over I can do the final fill, sand, paint on the top.
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Glue, clamp, screwing in the cargo doors before paint.
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macexpress

Observer
I would have never guessed from those first pictures that your flatbed wasn't steel. It's an intriguing concept. How do you like it after running it for 6 months?
 

Pinnacle Campers

Chateau spotter
I would have never guessed from those first pictures that your flatbed wasn't steel. It's an intriguing concept. How do you like it after running it for 6 months?
Yeah most people assume that its steel I think (until they look inside the cargo doors).
I love it. The cargo boxes and pass through are super functional. I find myself leaving a 6' step ladder in the pass through all the time. It fits snowboards, a weed eater, propane tanks, buckets, toolboxes, they get used.
I estimate the bed weighs 400lbs so good on gas. :)
It definitely shouldn't be used like a dump truck, boards with nails sticking out of them being thrown in the back would puncture right through the epoxy and allow water in the ply. But that isn't how its used, I have steel dump trailers for that.
Additionally if something does happen to it, just hit it with some epoxy and filler, repaint the affected area and move on.
 

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