The Official Dometic CFX Fridge Feed!

dcg141

Adventurer
I love mine. The cover does need a rethink. It should be a separate piece that conforms with to the door and use stick on velcro to attach it to the door. Keep the side velcro as it is currently. I even though about cutting mine at the edges and attaching it to the door with velcro. I like that the inner surfaces clean really easily. Nothing seems to stick to the interior.
 
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Dometic

Supporting Sponsor / Approved Vendor
I love mine. The cover does need a rethink. It should be a separate piece that conforms with to the door and use stick on velcro to attach it to the door. Keep the side velcro as it is currently. I even though about cutting mine at the edges and attaching it to the door with velcro. I like that the inner surfaces clean really easily. Nothing seems to stick to the interior.
We love hearing this kind of feedback! We've got some messages and comments about the cover that we've taken into consideration! Post some photos after you get it all finished!
 

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1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
I ordered the 75dz at Overland Expo but have not been able to figure out if you have a slide that works for it...
the PDF on the website mentions the 65 & 95 but not the 75dz.....thoughts?
 

rickc

Adventurer
1leglance: https://www.dometic.com/en-ca/ca/products/food-and-beverage/coolers/accessories/dometic-cfx-sld75-_-152184

Very, very expensive. I'm ordering 50" sliders today to make my own CFX-75DZ/ArkPak slider.

A question for Dometic: My neighbour has the CFX-50; it's display screen/controls is on one end and the power sockets on the other making it easy to slide in and out of his van. My CFX-75 has the screen/controls and the 110V and 12V plugs on the same side making this a real problem to slide without either sliding my battery too or using ridiculously long power extensions. As described above, I've decided to go big and slide the fridge and ArkPak together but otherwise having the power inputs on the control end is not a great idea. Why was it done this way?
 

Dometic

Supporting Sponsor / Approved Vendor
Well I was impressed enough at the Overland Expo and Ryan answered every question my wife came up with so we laid down the cash for the 75L dual zone, and you can bet we will be posting pics and thoughts soon :)

Glad we could get you to join the Dometic team! Look forward to hearing how you like it and some photos!
 

Coachgeo

Explorer
....A question for Dometic: My neighbour has the CFX-50; it's display screen/controls is on one end and the power sockets on the other making it easy to slide in and out of his van. My CFX-75 has the screen/controls and the 110V and 12V plugs on the same side making this a real problem to slide without either sliding my battery too or using ridiculously long power extensions. As described above, I've decided to go big and slide the fridge and ArkPak together but otherwise having the power inputs on the control end is not a great idea. Why was it done this way?
saves about $1.00 in manufacturing cost is probably the overall reason (less wire)
 

karmabiker

New member
Update 8/3/18
After 2 months of back and forth with Dometic it appears that they are going to get a resolution for me. I'll update once we have it sorted.
/end update

I've got an 80 that's about to be replaced with something other than a Dometic because of the ongoing customer service issues...

Here's the thread on ih8mud:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dometic-customer-support-cf-80.1065423/#post-11785299

and the original post:
"This is a bit of a PSA/Rant as the folks at Dometic have been giving me the run around, I thought I would pass along my experiences so you can weigh them accordingly as you evaluate fridge vendors:

Background:
I have a CF-80 that has been blowing fuses since day one. I originally thought it was something in my power setup or not enough circulation and did tons of troubleshooting around that. I eventually decided to attach it to a battery in the garage and let it run to see if it popped a fuse out of the rig. Sure enough... popped fuse. So I contacted dometic (still under warranty) to find out what to do, as it turns out everything is handled thru service centers. Also turns out none of the service centers in Denver have any idea what a CF-80 is or how to look at it. Closest one I found is in Colorado Springs and they are 60 days out for an appointment and I still can't confirm that they actually service the CF-80 (scheduling girl asked what kind of RV it was in, and didn't understand that it is a cooler or why you would want one in a 4x4).

I finally got a hold of someone at dometic and explained what was going on and directed them to this thread from a South African forum regarding a batch of CF-50s with THE EXACT SAME ISSUE (Waeco CF50 blowing fuses.......?) and after a week of back and forth I got this response:

"The cooler just has to have a good 12 volts all the time. If the voltage starts to drop and it goes to kick in and pull its going to blow the fuse. We recommend a good full 12 volts source at all times. Some people who camp a lot in the desert hook up a solar panel to their battery to keep that power going . That is also an option. "

I then pointed them at section 6.4 of their manual:
"The device is equipped with a multi-level battery monitor that protects your vehicle battery against excessive discharging when the device is connected to the on-board 12/24 V supply. If the cooler is operated when the vehicle ignition is switched off, the cooler switches off automatically as soon as the supply voltage falls below a set level. The cooler will switch back on once the battery has been recharged to the restart voltage level."

... I'll add more later as I collect info."

Since Dometic stoped responding to my emails I have installed a solar panel and Victron controller, and haven't dropped below 12V in some time. ...low and behold the fuse still blows at about day 3 of run time.

@DometicOutdoors - is there any help you can lend?

8.21.2018
After 3 months I was finally able to get a replacement fridge from Dometic. Plus side they upgraded me. Down side - I spent most of the camping season with a fridge that blew fuses every day or 2. All the same wiring in my rig - no blown fuses with the new fridge after 6 days of run time.

I had 2 very recent comparisons of customer service - CVT Tents and PowerStop brakes.

On CVT I had 2 warranty items, the telescoping ladder and an awning pole, both broken, both debatable as to wether they should be warranty items. CVT didnt even blink, they asked for pictures and sent out a new pole and ladder the next day. AMAZING

On Powerstop - this was most certainly NOT a warranty item. I called them up and told them what happened to my drivers rear pad and rotor (freak rock from a water crossing on Ophir wedged in between the pad and rotor) and they offered a one time courtesy replacement which i had in my hands in under a week, also AMAZING.

IMHO Dometic needs to take note from these two companies on how to handle customer service. I love the new fridge and it seems to be working very very well, however it should not have taken the bulk of the camping season for me to get this sorted out.
 
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Coachgeo

Explorer
Not exactly but darn close. 12 gauge for all tests, which should be more than enough....
Never assume.... for shits and grins now repeat with 10 gauge at length your arrangement would require. Or use 12 gauge as short as you can get it as a temporary test to see what results are.
 

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karmabiker

New member
Not assuming, using wire gauge charts. With these length runs I should be good to 20 amps, way more than the 8 amp max on the fridge.
 

karmabiker

New member
Per one test the fridge is spiking to 15 amps per my VOM... I gave up on the 8 amp and went to 10 amp fuzes to get some extra head room. - Haven't tried 24V as I don't have a 24v source.

How high of an ambient temp to other folks run their fridges in regularly?

@DometicOutdoors any suggestions?

Edited - went back and looked at my notes. The spike was to 15a not 20a
 
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