The not-so-definitive guide to Sienna seats

Justgosurfin

Active member
six way switch installed....
The more you post about these, the closer I am to buying a pair. Ugh.

My plan now is to just bolt/weld the sienna floor tracks to my swivel bases. And then set then set the height/tilt permanently.


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Imbecile

Member
Its not that difficult to do the electric bases man. I just dont think you will be happy with the seats in one permanent fixed position.
 

Justgosurfin

Active member
Its not that difficult to do the electric bases man. I just dont think you will be happy with the seats in one permanent fixed position.
I agree. I’m just afraid of adding more weight to swivels that maybe weren’t meant to hold that much. Although I’m sure the weight of some of the people in who sat in the conversion van swivels totaled more than me at 185 + the seat.

With that said, I’d like to use the sienna seat belts so I just want to be sure it’s all study enough on that base.

I guess ending up sitting too high is another consideration when using all of these comments together.

Can you post of pic of how you attached the seat to the power base? Maintaining that quick connect would also be cool.


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Imbecile

Member
I havent installed my passenger seat yet. I just finished up mounting the electric switch on the driver seat. I figured i better get it installed before i ended up slamming it in the door. I can post more pics when i install the passenger seat. Its been raining all week here and hasnt stopped yet even today. I think Sunday its supposed to clear up. If you look at the passenger seat you can see the big tear in the seat cushion. Thats why im swapping mine out, the local upolstery shop quoted me a $1000 bucks each to redo them. I told him you do realize i can buy brand new Flexsteel seats for $800 each?

By the way, you about have to use the Ford seat belt or else you will get an airbag malfunction light on your dash. Unless of course you splice wires or something to fool it.
 

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Justgosurfin

Active member
I havent installed my passenger seat yet. I just finished up mounting the electric switch on the driver seat. I figured i better get it installed before i ended up slamming it in the door. I can post more pics when i install the passenger seat. Its been raining all week here and hasnt stopped yet even today. I think Sunday its supposed to clear up. If you look at the passenger seat you can see the big tear in the seat cushion. Thats why im swapping mine out, the local upolstery shop quoted me a $1000 bucks each to redo them. I told him you do realize i can buy brand new Flexsteel seats for $800 each?

By the way, you about have to use the Ford seat belt or else you will get an airbag malfunction light on your dash. Unless of course you splice wires or something to fool it.
Thanks. My van is a 95 and now has a cummins and manual in it = I pulled all the warning light bulbs out haha. Otherwise like you said, you could probably just splice those two wires together to make it think the buckle is in.

Yea any pics would be great. Mainly interested in how the seat is attached to your 6 way base.

Thanks for sharing the info.

I have two extra of those coffee sienna seats if you or anyone needs/wants one or both. I thought we would put a second row in but I’m thinking of something else now.


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Imbecile

Member
Heres the bracket that slides inside the seat, it then bolts on using the existing holes where the latches use to be located. That bracket then bolts to the slider. You have to cut out the rod that runs across under the seat. Its no longer used or needed, then you have to cut off the overhanging lip marked in red on each seat so that the bracket will slide down inside the seat. You have to cut the front of your new seat bracket at about a 45 degree angle at the front on each side so it fits inside the seat properly. Slide it in place and use the 8 existing bolt holes to secure it to the seat. DO NOT try to reuse the 4 original bolts that hold the rear latches in place. Get 4 new bolts the same size at the hardware store for each seat. The original bolts are tapered and will not tighen down far enough, they will screw in 3/4 of the way and then wedge in place and you will end up breaking them off trying to get them back out. Dont ask me how i know.... You have been warned.

You must also remove all of the latches and the cables that are attached to them as well as the release lever on the back bottom of the seat. Also note that the bracket is square, my camera has a wide angle fisheye type lens on it when i took these pics. I will post more for you tomorrow or sunday when i actually start installing the passenger side.

The side pieces on the bracket are 1/8th inch wall by 2 inches wide. The larger cross piece is 1/8th inch wall by 2"x2" angle. The smaller cross piece is 1.5"x1.5" angle. Once its bolted into the seat its about as rigid as you can get. The reason i did it this way is because when youre finished the seat will actually be offset further on one side than it is on the other when bolted to the slider. This simplified making the brackets that attach to the floor. If you just bolted angle iron on each side of the seat instead of building a bracket, one side would require a piece of angle iron 3 inches wide or more, but then a 3"x3" angle would be to tall to slide down into the seat. Side note... the smaller piece of angle is positioned where it is so as to avoid interfering with the recline mechanism as well as line up with the holes in the sliders. If you make yours like mine everything needs to be square and level so your seats arent lopsided or you damage or bend your new sliders when you start tightening bolts down. The bolt hole closest to the front of the seat on each side is offset so dont use them as a reference to build your brackets, use the other three on each side to build your bracket, then mark and drill the front holes last.
 

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Justgosurfin

Active member
Heres the bracket that slides inside the seat, it then bolts on using the existing holes where the latches use to be located. That bracket then bolts to the slider. You have to cut out the rod that runs across under the seat. Its no longer used or needed, then you have to cut off the overhanging lip marked in red on each seat so that the bracket will slide down inside the seat. You have to cut the front of your new seat bracket at about a 45 degree angle at the front on each side so it fits inside the seat properly. Slide it in place and use the 8 existing bolt holes to secure it to the seat. DO NOT try to reuse the 4 original bolts that hold the rear latches in place. Get 4 new bolts the same size at the hardware store for each seat. The original bolts are tapered and will not tighen down far enough, they will screw in 3/4 of the way and then wedge in place and you will end up breaking them off trying to get them back out. Dont ask me how i know.... You have been warned.

You must also remove all of the latches and the cables that are attached to them as well as the release lever on the back bottom of the seat. Also note that the bracket is square, my camera has a wide angle fisheye type lens on it when i took these pics. I will post more for you tomorrow or sunday when i actually start installing the passenger side.

The side pieces on the bracket are 1/8th inch wall by 2 inches wide. The larger cross piece is 1/8th inch wall by 2"x2" angle. The smaller cross piece is 1.5"x1.5" angle. Once its bolted into the seat its about as rigid as you can get. The reason i did it this way is because when youre finished the seat will actually be offset further on one side than it is on the other when bolted to the slider. This simplified making the brackets that attach to the floor. If you just bolted angle iron on each side of the seat instead of building a bracket, one side would require a piece of angle iron 3 inches wide or more, but then a 3"x3" angle would be to tall to slide down into the seat. Side note... the smaller piece of angle is positioned where it is so as to avoid interfering with the recline mechanism as well as line up with the holes in the sliders. If you make yours like mine everything needs to be square and level so your seats arent lopsided or you damage or bend your new sliders when you start tightening bolts down. The bolt hole closest to the front of the seat on each side is offset so dont use them as a reference to build your brackets, use the other three on each side to build your bracket, then mark and drill the front holes last.
Awesome! Thanks so much for the write up. My only concern is that I won’t be able to use my swivel base with them as it will put me up way the high. Hmmm


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Justgosurfin

Active member
Heres the bracket that slides inside the seat, it then bolts on using the existing holes where the latches use to be located. That bracket then bolts to the slider. You have to cut out the rod that runs across under the seat. Its no longer used or needed, then you have to cut off the overhanging lip marked in red on each seat so that the bracket will slide down inside the seat. You have to cut the front of your new seat bracket at about a 45 degree angle at the front on each side so it fits inside the seat properly. Slide it in place and use the 8 existing bolt holes to secure it to the seat. DO NOT try to reuse the 4 original bolts that hold the rear latches in place. Get 4 new bolts the same size at the hardware store for each seat. The original bolts are tapered and will not tighen down far enough, they will screw in 3/4 of the way and then wedge in place and you will end up breaking them off trying to get them back out. Dont ask me how i know.... You have been warned.

You must also remove all of the latches and the cables that are attached to them as well as the release lever on the back bottom of the seat. Also note that the bracket is square, my camera has a wide angle fisheye type lens on it when i took these pics. I will post more for you tomorrow or sunday when i actually start installing the passenger side.

The side pieces on the bracket are 1/8th inch wall by 2 inches wide. The larger cross piece is 1/8th inch wall by 2"x2" angle. The smaller cross piece is 1.5"x1.5" angle. Once its bolted into the seat its about as rigid as you can get. The reason i did it this way is because when youre finished the seat will actually be offset further on one side than it is on the other when bolted to the slider. This simplified making the brackets that attach to the floor. If you just bolted angle iron on each side of the seat instead of building a bracket, one side would require a piece of angle iron 3 inches wide or more, but then a 3"x3" angle would be to tall to slide down into the seat. Side note... the smaller piece of angle is positioned where it is so as to avoid interfering with the recline mechanism as well as line up with the holes in the sliders. If you make yours like mine everything needs to be square and level so your seats arent lopsided or you damage or bend your new sliders when you start tightening bolts down. The bolt hole closest to the front of the seat on each side is offset so dont use them as a reference to build your brackets, use the other three on each side to build your bracket, then mark and drill the front holes last.
How high did you determine the front of seat to be?


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Imbecile

Member
My rig is an RV not a standard van. It had aftermarket Flexsteel captain chairs in it. They measured approximately 18 inches high to the top of the seat cushion. I installed the sienna seats slightly lower than that because it can raise and lower the seat with the electric base 1.5". Trying to incorporate a swivel would be a huge undertaking and unless you custom made it yourself i doubt it will work.
 

Justgosurfin

Active member
Sorry for the poor pics and ugly welds but this was my first seat experiment using Cadillac CTS V spec seats. Unfortunately they were not comfortable for the upright position you’re in in a van. Adapting to the swivel is actually straight forward. Just bolting the seat base to two pieces of flat bar across the swivel top. The last pic is from the discountvantruck website and more or less shows what my current swivel is. I would basically just be putting power base on the swivel top.

As I mentioned above my concern will be the added height of the 6 way base. The site says the base height is 4” when down. Did that seem accurate to you? Is your 6 way base pretty much flush on the floor? If nothing else I suppose I could chop down the pedestal.

Thanks again for diving into this!








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Imbecile

Member
Yes, the base measurements are accurate. No i could not install the bases flush with the floor because the driver side has to be raised up to clear the control module under the driver seat. Your rig probably doesnt have that so it wouldnt be a concern for you. I also have a raised ledge where the floor transitions into the camper area, the bases had to be higher than that ledge so that they didnt hit it when the seat was moved back.
 

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Justgosurfin

Active member
Yes, the base measurements are accurate. No i could not install the bases flush with the floor because the driver side has to be raised up to clear the control module under the driver seat. Your rig probably doesnt have that so it wouldnt be a concern for you. I also have a raised ledge where the floor transitions into the camper area, the bases had to be higher than that ledge so that they didnt hit it when the seat was moved back.
Thanks again for the info. I think I’m going to pull the trigger and order one of the bases and see what we can make happen.


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Coreyt

New member
So after reading through this and contacting mg, I now realize I have jumped the gun. I purchased a set of 2015 2nd row seats thinking I could just purchase the adapters and away I would go. Now I’m realizing just how wrong I was.
if I’m understanding correctly, I will need to fabricate up some adapters or spend $1000 for some?
 
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