The Gnarhauler: Another white cargo van.

i bike

Active member
First, a little behind the intent of this build. I'm a mountain biker, dirt biker, camper etc. I need a comfortable, secure way to transport myself, a few passengers and our gear to and from destinations while also offering somewhere to sleep and shelter from the elements. This will be less of a dedicated camper and more of a flexible, configurable gear and people transport.

I've been drooling over SMB/4x4 style Ford vans for some time now, I've always wanted to build one of my own. A little over two years ago I was ready to pull the trigger on a used cargo van to start converting, then I got cold feet. I ended up buying a brand new Tundra TRD 4x4 with plans to build it into an expo/overland style vehicle. I was really enjoying the truck and getting some modifications done to it. As time went on and I used the truck, I was quickly getting over beating up a brand new vehicle that I was still making payments on. The idea of a van was still burning in the back of my brain.

I put the Tundra up for sale this May, sold it private party a few weeks later and then began my hunt for a used van. The requirements for the van were: rust free, cargo van, EB, V8, sub-150k miles, sub-$10k, PW/PL and cruise control. After some searching, I came across a van that checked all the boxes minus CC. A 2006 E350 EB cargo. One owner with 125k miles on the clock. After some research I determined it would be an easy enough to add cruise later. I began the negotiation process with the seller and soon after was on a plane from Phoenix to San Jose to pick up my new-to-me van.

Van wishlist
  • AT tires-Complete
  • Small lift/suspension-Complete, for now.....
  • Floor with cargo tie down and seat attachment points-Complete
  • Passenger bench-Complete (may add third row if needed)
  • Roof fan-Complete
  • Aux battery-Complete
  • Cruise Control-Complete
  • Roof rack-Complete
  • Insulation
  • Interior paneling
  • Power distribution
  • Interior storage
  • Stowable bed platform
  • Stereo-in progress
  • Solar panel
  • 09+ front seats w/swivels-Complete
  • Awning-Complete
  • Solar shower
  • Cargo box-Complete

Picture of the van from the CL add.


After a test drive and through inspection I was on my way back to Phoenix. I made to over 700 miles home in one shot, van did great. A little front end wobble around 65, I assumed due to worn out front end components, cruise control sure would have been nice.....


Got the van home and did some interior cleanup in preparation for starting on CLD (constraint layer damper, AKA Dynamat) treatment of metal surfaces.


Also made up a quick set of Reflectix window shades to protect the interior from the harsh AZ sun. I used metal tape to attach some small magnets around the perimeter to hold the shades to the metal window frames.




Took care of some necessary maintenance along the way. New Moog tie rod/dragling assembly, replaced a balljoint, oil change, coolant flush, AC recharge, new fluid and dif cover seal and an alignment.

Of course, the mandatory van right of passage. Step one, put a hole in the van.


Step two, put a fan in the hole. I used the Hein adapter off Ebay, if anyone is wondering.


Picked up a group 31 100ah deep cycle AGM battery to power said fan and other accessories. Found a nice steel battery cage online and used some 3/8" grade hardware to hang it off the crossmember. I went with the X2 (Batteries Plus house brand) because of the 4 year warranty. Phoenix heat is not kind to batteries, and if I do need to replace it in 18 months, it'll be nice to not have to pay for it.


Until I got a floor in, this was my makeshift method for hauling my 250 XC-W around.


Van out in the wild doing van stuff. First shakedown to the White Mountains and Sunrise Ski Resort, the only lift-acess mountain biking in AZ. The bike is an Evil Insurgent for those who may be wondering. That was the first time I'd ridden it since I built it up, absolute ripper with a 170mm Lyrik on the front.


Slept in the van for the first time that weekend, simple Ikea twin mattress on the floor. Works for now till I figure out a bed platform.


Back to work, began adding FatMat CLD all over large, resonant metal surfaces. The plan is to install L-Track in the rear for seat tracks and cargo tie down points. Using masons string to mock up potential locations.


Treated the front doors as well, they got the full sound treatment including a sheet of mass load vinyl backed with closed cell foam. I swapped the factory paper cone speakers for a set of JL Audio 6.5 components while I was in there. Tweeters got installed in the black sail panels on the backside of the rearview mirrors.


Picked up some Moog 880 coils for the front and Bilstein RV comfort series shocks for all four corners.



The tires that were on the van had lots of life left, but were pushing five years old. Swapped them out for a set of Falken Wildpeak AT3W in a 265/75R16, including a full size spare. (Which does fit in the factory location, BTW)


Not a big fan of the dog dish hub caps, so I ditched them and rattle canned the wheels satin black. Much better.


The van is still doing van stuff with all the projects underway. One dirtbike and two full size arcades, very happy with my decision to go with an EB.


Post-pedal in Flagstaff.
 
Last edited:

i bike

Active member
Along the way I picked up a cruise control wheel from the junkyard. Ordered new buttons and clock spring, ended up having to replace a faulty brake pressure sensor switch as well. One of my mountain bike buddies is a Ford master mechanic, got him to enable the speed control option in the ECU.


SUCCESS!!


I picked up a pair of brand new two person Transit bench with built in seat belts off CL for $50 each. Going to use the legs of the seat to set the L-Track spacing.


Ordered some recessed L-Track and used the Transit seat to create a mounting placement jig.


Heres the idea, right or left seat placement depending on how the vans being used.



Three sheets of 3/4" ply, laid sideways and rough trimmed using the factory rubber mat. I covered all side of the ply with deck sealer to prevent moisture issues down the road.



L-Track test fit.


Last step before plywood goes in, 3/8" neoprene foam in the low point of the corrugated floor. Hoping to get some noise reduction and insulation out of this, as well as sure up the plywood.


Joined the plywood pieces with wood glue and dowels to prevent heaving at the seams.


Floor in the cab got the same treatment as the doors, 100% CLD coverage topped with closed cell foam and mass load vinyl.


I looked at a bunch of flooring options an opted for rubber coin. Home Depot sold some online that came in a 7.5'x17' roll, enough to cover front to back and side to side in one piece. I didn't get many pictures of the rubber floor install as I was under the gun to get the floor wrapped up and seat installed for a snowboard trip over Christmas.

From the rear, with tracks and aluminum threshold installed.


Side step detail.


Transit seat mounting detail, hacked off the factory brackets and had a buddy weld on some 2"x3/16" tabs. i also installed steel backer plates under the van where the track bolts through in locations where I plan to mount the seat.


Transition from the plywood floor, I put a taper on the leading edge of the plywood to help ease the transition.
 

i bike

Active member
A few more goodies from along the way. Picked up a 45qt Whynter fridge, fits nicely between the front seats. Just plugging into the CLA portin the dash for now. Planing on building a fridge slide to attach to the L-Track at some point.


Amazon lightbar and sprayon bedliner bumper.


New to me head unit with car play. Popped out one of the lighter plugs on the dash and replaced it with a USB bulkhead I picked up off Amazon, connected directly to the rear of the stereo.




More van in the wild photos. I scored a free aluminum ladder rack off an old Econoline we retired at work. Refinished it with rattle can bed liner and some flashy grade 8 hardware. Plan on using it as a foundation for an awning, solar shower, cargo box and solar panel to charge the house battery eventually.


Christmas day at Snowbowl. Quite possibly the first time the van has ever seen snow in its life.
 

eporter

Adventurer
Nice build.

I like the flooring with the track and seats. I had some transit seats, but they all had the wrong leg offset for what I wanted to do. Those suckers are heavy! Nice work on the mounting plate welded on the base, that’s a good solution. I also wanted something that folded flat, so I found some Yukon 3rd row seats.

So are you using L track hardware to mount the seats, or going through the track to plates on the bottom? I need to come up with an L track solution for seats and cargo mounting for my RV project.
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
Along the way I picked up a cruise control wheel from the junkyard. Ordered new buttons and clock spring, ended up having to replace a faulty brake pressure sensor switch as well. One of my mountain bike buddies is a Ford master mechanic, got him to enable the speed control option in the ECU.


SUCCESS!!


I picked up a pair of brand new two person Transit bench with built in seat belts off CL for $50 each. Going to use the legs of the seat to set the L-Track spacing.


Ordered some recessed L-Track and used the Transit seat to create a mounting placement jig.


Heres the idea, right or left seat placement depending on how the vans being used.



Three sheets of 3/4" ply, laid sideways and rough trimmed using the factory rubber mat. I covered all side of the ply with deck sealer to prevent moisture issues down the road.



L-Track test fit.


Last step before plywood goes in, 3/8" neoprene foam in the low point of the corrugated floor. Hoping to get some noise reduction and insulation out of this, as well as sure up the plywood.


Joined the plywood pieces with wood glue and dowels to prevent heaving at the seams.


Floor in the cab got the same treatment as the doors, 100% CLD coverage topped with closed cell foam and mass load vinyl.


I looked at a bunch of flooring options an opted for rubber coin. Home Depot sold some online that came in a 7.5'x17' roll, enough to cover front to back and side to side in one piece. I didn't get many pictures of the rubber floor install as I was under the gun to get the floor wrapped up and seat installed for a snowboard trip over Christmas.

From the rear, with tracks and aluminum threshold installed.


Side step detail.


Transit seat mounting detail, hacked off the factory brackets and had a buddy weld on some 2"x3/16" tabs. i also installed steel backer plates under the van where the track bolts through in locations where I plan to mount the seat.


Transition from the plywood floor, I put a taper on the leading edge of the plywood to help ease the transition.

Do you know if those lit steering wheel buttons will fit into a 2001 steering wheel? Where did you buy yours?

My brake pressure switch was replaced under an outstanding recall. I then chased a number of things trying to get the CC to work... only to realize that at some point I did get it working, but ‘97 E350s don’t have any form of indications that CC is on. No lights whatsoever... only way to tell it’s working is if it accelerates without pressing the throttle pedal :)
 
Last edited:

i bike

Active member
Nice build.

I like the flooring with the track and seats. I had some transit seats, but they all had the wrong leg offset for what I wanted to do. Those suckers are heavy! Nice work on the mounting plate welded on the base, that’s a good solution. I also wanted something that folded flat, so I found some Yukon 3rd row seats.

So are you using L track hardware to mount the seats, or going through the track to plates on the bottom? I need to come up with an L track solution for seats and cargo mounting for my RV project.

Thanks. I’m using an L-Track stud at each corner of the seat where the tab lands on the track, making the seat location infinitely adjustable.
97dd15e4f267ccc4e26f5d1205edcf1b.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

i bike

Active member
Do you know if those lit steering wheel buttons will fit into a 2001 steering wheel? Where did you buy yours?

My brake pressure switch was replaced under an outstanding recall. I then chased a number of things trying to get the CC to work... only to realize that at some point I did get it working, but ‘97 E350s don’t have any form of indications that CC is on. No lights whatsoever... only way to tell it’s working is if it accelerates without pressing the throttle pedal :)

I can’t say for sure if it will work for that year. I used this kit as a guide and cross-referenced the OEM part numbers for the buttons and clock spring.

http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.co...econoline-van-all-models-complete-cruise-kit/

Per this website, looks like it’s only compatible with 2005-2008 model years.

Tasca Parts is the name of the website I ordered the parts from. Here’s the two parts I ordered and prices.
ae68e09e3d4d6813f16e94bc1bb125c2.jpg


I get no indication on the dash when cruise is engaged either, just a van that won’t slow down

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

eporter

Adventurer
Ah, the L Track stud makes sense. I thought it was just regular bolts from the pic.

I found some transit seats at an upfitter shop. They have these cool washers they mounted the L track and seats with. Lots of holes in them to offset the weird stuff under a van. Biggest is 1/4” thick, 3/16” circle, small hex is 1/8”.
90db1eef29fc67be3151e24a8512923d.jpg
 

mothgils

Member
Thanks. I’m using an L-Track stud at each corner of the seat where the tab lands on the track, making the seat location infinitely adjustable.
97dd15e4f267ccc4e26f5d1205edcf1b.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What method did you use to attach the L-track? Is it attached thru the subfloor to the floor of the van?

I really like the setup you have and may do something similar with our van.
 

i bike

Active member
What method did you use to attach the L-track? Is it attached thru the subfloor to the floor of the van?

I really like the setup you have and may do something similar with our van.

Track is bolted through the plywood subfloor and then the sheet metal floor with 1/4-20 hex bolts every 10”. All the bolts have a fender washer on the bottom side of the van. I added some 3/16” steel flat bar backer plates in the areas where I have the seat installed, but I may go back through and add backer plates everywhere. Cheap insurance. I had to use rivnuts in a few locations where the bolt holes landed inside of crossmembers.

The subfloor is 3/4” plywood, I made a router jig and removed material where the tracks would sit, leaving about a 1/16” gap under the lip of the track for the coin flooring to fit underneath. The track holds everything in place. The plywood I bought had a slight bow in it, so I put the crown up and used the track to cinch it all down, shouldn’t ever have to worry about the edges coming up.
245e3cf24a04ed03243c54609ac62cbb.jpg
8c454db9913a70c8d41b7e7a25586b0c.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

eporter

Adventurer
Nice work with the router. I like that flanged style of track that cleanly covers the flooring. The floor in my RV is already 1.5” of plywood, so I plan on mounting the L track directly onto that, then adding some kind of underlayment to level out the floor to frame bolts already there. Then coin flooring, vinyl plank, or similar.

Re: 1/4-20 hardware, I believe that is what the track is designed around. There may be some sized for 5/16, but it is far less common. Once that track has many bolts through it, the system becomes very strong. There is already plenty of online van debate about all that to be found...
 

i bike

Active member
1/4-20 seems a little light for securing seatbelt areas. Can you go larger?

1/4-20 is what the track manufacturer intended to be used, albeit the predrilled track has holes every 6” inches and I drilled mine at 10” (I wasn’t crazy about putting 75 holes in the floor of the van). They use this track in wheelchair vans and airplanes for seating, so I’m pretty confident it’ll be good. Especially with the backing plates. The seatbelts themselves are built into the seat, and the studs that hold the seats to the track are 3/8” grade 8, x4.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

turbodiesel

Active member
Along the way I picked up a cruise control wheel from the junkyard. Ordered new buttons and clock spring, ended up having to replace a faulty brake pressure sensor switch as well. One of my mountain bike buddies is a Ford master mechanic, got him to enable the speed control option in the ECU.


SUCCESS!!


I picked up a pair of brand new two person Transit bench with built in seat belts off CL for $50 each. Going to use the legs of the seat to set the L-Track spacing.


Ordered some recessed L-Track and used the Transit seat to create a mounting placement jig.


Heres the idea, right or left seat placement depending on how the vans being used.



Three sheets of 3/4" ply, laid sideways and rough trimmed using the factory rubber mat. I covered all side of the ply with deck sealer to prevent moisture issues down the road.



L-Track test fit.


Last step before plywood goes in, 3/8" neoprene foam in the low point of the corrugated floor. Hoping to get some noise reduction and insulation out of this, as well as sure up the plywood.


Joined the plywood pieces with wood glue and dowels to prevent heaving at the seams.


Floor in the cab got the same treatment as the doors, 100% CLD coverage topped with closed cell foam and mass load vinyl.


I looked at a bunch of flooring options an opted for rubber coin. Home Depot sold some online that came in a 7.5'x17' roll, enough to cover front to back and side to side in one piece. I didn't get many pictures of the rubber floor install as I was under the gun to get the floor wrapped up and seat installed for a snowboard trip over Christmas.

From the rear, with tracks and aluminum threshold installed.


Side step detail.


Transit seat mounting detail, hacked off the factory brackets and had a buddy weld on some 2"x3/16" tabs. i also installed steel backer plates under the van where the track bolts through in locations where I plan to mount the seat.


Transition from the plywood floor, I put a taper on the leading edge of the plywood to help ease the transition.
What closed cell foam and density loaded vinyl did you use? I'm planning to do the floor of the main cab.

I was thinking something along these lines. Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro Closed Cell Sound Insulation Foam for Cars - Water Resistant - 3/8" Thick, 9 Square Ft. Sheet - Made in the USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAFWT3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VZ-jCb9V5JZA4
 

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