The full sized mid-size, my 2014 F150 "Fiddy"

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badm0t0rfinger

Raptor Apologist. Shitpost Extraordinaire.
I stand corrected.

I don't know the final goals for jumping to 4.10s or 4.30s, but I think either is probably a good call.

In my own case I would probably wait until I made the jump to a bigger tire and then figure out how much gear I would want. Worse case scenario you realize you don't need that much, though the cost will be roughly the same.
 

badm0t0rfinger

Raptor Apologist. Shitpost Extraordinaire.
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it 8.8 front and 9.75 rear? The link gears would be for rear only because they're not reverse cut?

edit: I'm looking at S3M's site and they only have full sets for 4.11 to 4.56 in that range... so maybe the 4.30 is for 2WD?

 
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Grassland

Well-known member
Well assuming the body shop is staying open, the truck will go in for cleaning up the rust so so can get another 3 years out of it.

My mechanic is under quarantine for another week before he goes back to work, so the truck will have to wait for the trans cooler and maintenance.

Decided against dropping $2500+ for a regear or $2000 for a truetrac (w/ install)
Things just cost too much in Canada, and I won't see any $ back from this when I try to sell it in 3 years.

Replaced the locking handles on my cap today and tried to install the swing case I got for passenger side, but I don't have a T30 Torx bit to remove the OEM tie down.

Been watching some 250/2500 gasser tow videos and those trucks on 33s towing 7000# trailers don't use much more gas than my truck on 33s towing a 2500# trailer!
 

badm0t0rfinger

Raptor Apologist. Shitpost Extraordinaire.
Maintenance done, aux transmission cooler added.
I'll try to bang off the swing case today after work.
After Easter truck gets the rust dealt with.
Oh man, I feel bad because you could have bought the Saudi cooler which is double the size, and only about 90 dollars. DL3Z-7A095-B is the part number if you ever want to "upgrade".
 

Grassland

Well-known member
Oh man, I feel bad because you could have bought the Saudi cooler which is double the size, and only about 90 dollars. DL3Z-7A095-B is the part number if you ever want to "upgrade".

A hot day is still under 95°f 99% of where I travel by vehicle so I'm sure the stock one will do, but thanks for the part #! If I done effed up it should be an easy swap now.
One thing I did worry about was what if the larger aftermarket cooler cooled too much when it's -31, which this truck also frequently sees.
 

Jnich77

Director of Adventure Management Operations
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it 8.8 front and 9.75 rear? The link gears would be for rear only because they're not reverse cut?

edit: I'm looking at S3M's site and they only have full sets for 4.11 to 4.56 in that range... so maybe the 4.30 is for 2WD?

Depends on the truck. Some have an 8.8 rear and some have the 9.75. All have the same 8.8 up front.

After 2015 they came out with the "Super 8.8" rear end.
 

badm0t0rfinger

Raptor Apologist. Shitpost Extraordinaire.
A hot day is still under 95°f 99% of where I travel by vehicle so I'm sure the stock one will do, but thanks for the part #! If I done effed up it should be an easy swap now.
One thing I did worry about was what if the larger aftermarket cooler cooled too much when it's -31, which this truck also frequently sees.
Fair point, and I suppose too much cooling could be an issue when its negative 31.
 

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Grassland

Well-known member
So the Billy 5160 rear shocks I have were not specifically for an F150. I picked the length based on the add a leaf and block I had at the time. Down to just AAL now.
The eyelet diameter is 1/2" on these shocks, but the Fiddy uses 12 mm bolts. That .7 mm of play makes a heck of a racket. In the summer you didn't hear it because the bushings were squeezed, but once the temperature dropped they got loud. I had a friend make some sleeves for the bolts. We installed them on the upper bolts last summer. I finally got around to the lower ones yesterday.

Now that one particular noise is dealt with, I can better focus on the others. My leaf springs still creak and thunk, and I'm pretty sure the front shudder/rattle is the CV joints shaking at the axle end. That noise has been there since the front lift. It's only heard when hitting a very rough section of what passes for a road here.
 

bknudtsen

Expedition Leader
Check the nut at the top of the front shock where it goes through the top hat. Mine made the same noise and it turned out these were not tightened down all the way. Just enough to let the spring rattle when going over sharp bumps.
 
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