The Dana 50 TTB and getting it under my E350 van.

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
Man I REALLY need to stop reading this thread. A buddy of mine caught wind of it and has enumerated no less than 5 times the reasons I need this project in my van life



and that making him a screaming deal on my Harley would (over)fund it. LOOKING GOOD GENTS!
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Why not get a couple pieces of 3x3, cut the bottom out so you have channel instead of tube (or get it that way), and then you could bevel the sides. It would end up wedge shaped. You could fill up the gap without a somewhat booty-fab looking (no offense) piece of plate, and the bevel would level it up. Making any sense?
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
This
...
cf1e9b53a5e934d8c410d211c0110a12.jpg
...

looks a lot like this
DSC_1099.jpg

and this
DSC_1095.jpg


if you delete that plate. So, I'd delete that plate.:coffeedrink:
 

philos

Explorer
Yeah, looks like a smaller plate sits on top of the 2x3 than what I placed on there... Still need something to get that angle for the spring to sit square.
I might have used 3x3, but I didn't have any in my pile



Sent via flux capacitor
 

Mwilliamshs

Explorer
If you're only contemplating the plate to make the spring sit square I'd say don't bother. It's never square. The axle moves in an arc and the spring is constantly being extended or compressed to follow it in the same arc. I once stressed and fretted over mounting a sailboat fixture perfectly perpendicular to the deck and when the captain noticed he said, "Oh good. You've spent an hour making that thing level. I'm gonna spend the next 20 years not caring in the least that it will never be that way again":Wow1:
 

bcaine

New member
X2 on the 12" of travel on this particular van.

Glad that picture was reposted as it does clearly show a variable rate spring and I hadn't noticed earlier. This is to say the 880s may just end up working.

Philos' progress (and the lunchbox build) have caused me to try to focus a bit more. Having had a week of consecutive snow days off of teaching has helped too.

Got the van leveled on four jack stands and will finish removing the 2wd front end tomorrow in my last snow day.

Just ordered a pitman arm I hope will work, opted for the skyjacker fa400, hoping I won't end up needing the fa600.

Will post pics once the 500lbs jig is in place. I'm too type A to get to welding without measures.
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Some say that there is 12" of travel and this one just sits lower in that travel range.
Looking at the bump stop I can't imagine this having much more than 3" of up travel.
Anyone?


Based on the polish visible on the shock shaft I'd say you're pretty close to spot on with that 3" estimate, and maybe just a tad generous. Given that, 9"-10" of droop would be quite a drop.
 

philos

Explorer
I don't know if what I've done so far would really qualify as progress, but I do feel like we're getting there collectively :)

Bought some junkyard ABS sensors today that are same as what I've got on my van. I'll get them chopped up and cleaned for mock up.

And yeah, that bump stop looks close. Granted, the wheel is further out on the arc but I'm not sure it's that far out ;)


Sent via flux capacitor
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
I met up with a fellow vanner today who happened to have an Agile TTB conversion. I thought it would be relevant to this discussion to snap some pictures and share.


I've always wondered what one of these setups looked like. Since I'm such a visual learner it really helps me actually see it vs hear someone explain the setup architecture. Thank you--so much appreciated!


Based on the polish visible on the shock shaft I'd say you're pretty close to spot on with that 3" estimate, and maybe just a tad generous. Given that, 9"-10" of droop would be quite a drop.

You're looking at this picture I take it?


I'm not understanding where there's 12" of travel. Can someone help point out what I'm missing? :beer: for this community! The learning and sharing is intoxicating(no pun intended!).
 
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BajaSportsmobile

Baja Ironman
I've always wondered what one of these setups looked like. Since I'm such a visual learner it really helps me actually see it vs hear someone explain the setup. Thank you--so much appreciated!

This will give you a better idea of the way it works.

Those questioning the travel numbers will be able to see the motion ratio - the travel is as stated.

[video]https://youtu.be/ecrc_d8u2ls[/video]

[video]https://youtu.be/lKQZ7GIPUy8[/video]

[video]https://youtu.be/CtAsrs29seU[/video]
 
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4x4junkie

Explorer
You just need to remember that a TTB suspension is basically two levers that pivot at one end with the wheel at the other end. Both the bumpstop and shock are at mid-points on the lever... If the lever (axle beam) is able to move up say, 3" where it hits the bumpstop, the wheel (at the end of the beam) can move up maybe 5". So it's definitely possible there's 5" of uptravel, and 7" of down, for a total of 12" at the wheel.


And I hope that it's just the angle of the pic and I'm not seeing a gusset up at the top, but that tubular radius arm with the upper tube that appears to be welded straight to the side of the axle beam right in the middle is a failure waiting to happen. The radius arm needs to span the entire width of the axle beam top-to-bottom (including the section of box tubing, if used) where it attaches to the beam.
The driver side radius arm alone bears the entire torque load being generated by the front differential, so it needs to be sturdy as possible (and gusset up top or not, the tubes should be gusseted or plated along sides for support also). For those here building their own arms, take a look at aftermarket arms such as Skyjacker or Camburg to get some ideas.

I'd also suggest try to design it so that it's similar to the OEM coil spring setup where the radius arm bolts to the axle beam rather than having the arm welded directly to it. To me it seems this way it would be even less likely to have a weld fail in this area over time.
 
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philos

Explorer
Agile does box their radius arms where they meet the axle housing. Looks like an "L" if I remember right. They also have the lower tube kind of pinched over the bottom of the "L"
You can kind of see here where the lower tube sticks out below the axle housing in this screen grab...
cb5e019d7cc8efe53bba0ef4ff3cd720.jpg


I'm planning on gussets on my arms when I get to that point :)




Sent via flux capacitor
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
This will give you a better idea of the way it works.

Those questioning the travel numbers will be able to see the motion ratio - the travel is as stated.

[video]https://youtu.be/ecrc_d8u2ls[/video]

[video]https://youtu.be/lKQZ7GIPUy8[/video]

[video]https://youtu.be/CtAsrs29seU[/video]

Thanks for the videos. Fun and interesting to watch the susp work.
 

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