TEOTWAWKI Camp Utility Trailer Build

Snirp88

New member
Just finishing up this build and wanted post it up for some insight into anything else I should add.

I set out about a month ago to build simple, but versatile camp trailer built around the smittybilt overlander xl tent. Didn't want it fully enclosed or anything like some off road trailers because i wanted to be able to throw a large variety of different things in the box. My goals were to create a self-sustaining, base-camp style trailer and have have the whole package be as compact as possible, with a similar ground clearance and width stance as my BlaZeR2. Also, was built on a budget ~$3000.

The box itself is sized for the smittybilt xl tent at 4'X76". Wheel-wells/skirts were over built so they could be used for more storage and to make setting up the tent much easier. I used an 8D size battery box for the tounge box and was able to fit (2) 55AH deep cycle batteries (in parallel), a 600W/1200W peak pure sine wave inverter, as well as a fuse panel and ac charger all inside the box.

Cut into the outside of the box:
Custom switch panel to control the inverter, mounted led lights, 12v charging outlets, and even mounted waterproof bluetooth speakers.
A 120v gfi outlet
Inlet for 100W folding solar panel cord
Inlet for ac power for the 5 amp charger mounted inside the box.
For ventilation of the inverter, I designed and 3d printed a duct system that attaches to the fan and runs it directly outsite the box.

In the tent:
I also designed and 3d printed a custom floor cover/gang box that let me run another gfi outlet, cigarette lighter outlet, and usb outlets into the tent and mounted flush the floor.
Wired and mounted led light strips on their own switches both inside the tent, and near the ladder to light the annex.

The BlaZeR2:
Wired in a winch-style quick disconnect cable and solenoid to the back to also charge the batteries while the its running.
Same tire size/ bolt pattern as the trailer, so tires and more importantly, the spare is interchangeable.

And a little bit about my background.
I am a welder by trade and have been cad designed for quite a few years. For work I design, fabricate and install custom driveway gates so I am very familiar with designing projects start to finish, fabricating, and wiring low-volt systems.

Looking forward to see what you guys think, answer questions, and get some input on things I should add or do differently next time!
 

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Snirp88

New member
Cont.
 

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Snirp88

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Ready to go
 

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Snirp88

New member
Got to test out off camber/ balance last weekend really surprised me how well it handled a few trails
 

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Chili

Explorer
It turned out really awesome!

Any worries about the trailer axle being so far back? I had the understanding that the 60/40 weight distribution (fore/aft) was desirable on a trailer to avoid poor on-road handling. How's the tongue weight?
 

Snirp88

New member
It turned out really awesome!

Any worries about the trailer axle being so far back? I had the understanding that the 60/40 weight distribution (fore/aft) was desirable on a trailer to avoid poor on-road handling. How's the tongue weight?
I pondered the axle position quite a bit, ran numbers up and down the board to figure out before I built. Most trailers shoot for around 12 or 14% tongue weight, mainly to ease the tongue weight on the trailer. But the more weight forward (more tongue weight) the better on-road handling is. The limiting factor is usually the tongue weight rating of the vehicle. With the axle positioned where it is, I have about 22% tongue weight. Making it very stable on the highways, but putting about 300 on the tongue when its fully loaded. I have and add-a-leaf the blazer so that weight is nothing as stock it was rated for 500# tongue weight.

I also set it back for stability when I drop the trailer, that way i'm not worried about if flipping backwards when i'm climbing around in the tent, and I that way I had no need for out rigging jacks on the rear like a lot of people do. And the last reason, I have a hitch dirt bike rack that I plan on putting on the back of the trailer once I get the ol' girl running. With a ~300 lbs bike on the back, I'm still well within tolerances for a stable highway drive.
 

Chili

Explorer
I pondered the axle position quite a bit, ran numbers up and down the board to figure out before I built. Most trailers shoot for around 12 or 14% tongue weight, mainly to ease the tongue weight on the trailer. But the more weight forward (more tongue weight) the better on-road handling is. The limiting factor is usually the tongue weight rating of the vehicle. With the axle positioned where it is, I have about 22% tongue weight. Making it very stable on the highways, but putting about 300 on the tongue when its fully loaded. I have and add-a-leaf the blazer so that weight is nothing as stock it was rated for 500# tongue weight.

I also set it back for stability when I drop the trailer, that way i'm not worried about if flipping backwards when i'm climbing around in the tent, and I that way I had no need for out rigging jacks on the rear like a lot of people do. And the last reason, I have a hitch dirt bike rack that I plan on putting on the back of the trailer once I get the ol' girl running. With a ~300 lbs bike on the back, I'm still well within tolerances for a stable highway drive.

Makes a lot of sense!
 

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