Good point. The factory Rubicon sway bar (modified to be a manual disconnect after I fried the motor) will stay up front, but I’ll have to replace the rear if/when I get that auxiliary tank. Genright suggests the Currie sway bars, but I’ll likely look into heavier or dual rate selectable options.
Suspension makeover
- Thread starter laxphatty
- Start date
Good point. The factory Rubicon sway bar (modified to be a manual disconnect after I fried the motor) will stay up front, but I’ll have to replace the rear if/when I get that auxiliary tank. Genright suggests the Currie sway bars, but I’ll likely look into heavier or dual rate selectable options.
The front should be good to go. It is the factory Rubicon D44, but it's fully built: Artec truss, control arm skids, Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints, Spyntec/Solid Axle Industries manual hub conversion to remove the weak unit bearing and add much stronger axle shafts and beefier U-Joints.
Also has modified steering knuckles to raise the tie rod so I could fit a straight 1.5" x .25" wall DOM tie rod with 7/8" heims. The drag link will be the same when I get my welder fired back up. Everything in the steering system is double-sheer and stout. Frankly, it handles like a sports car off road...
I'll take some photos of the front end when I get up to the shop.
Dang, that really doesn't look bad. I thought I had my mind made up...
This is her after the hit and run that is (mostly) funding these modifications. A Camry hit her hard enough to push it four feet. The back left tire took most of the impact (hence the axle), but my homemade bumper took it like a champ with just some cool scuffing!
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I was tired of dealing with a sagging rear due to extra weight, I'm glad I went with the high capacity coils. I believe AEV nailed it with these, you definitely need 37's with flat fenders though.
Randy
greg.potter
Adventurer
My experience as well. The only issue I have had is with the D44 front axle steering components not being up to 37's. My next upgrade D60's.