chadzeilenga
Active member
For those who have changed out their suspension bushings, how much press tonnage was required? Will 12ton work?
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Suspension bushings
- Thread starter chadzeilenga
- Start date
Mine were still tight at 190k (just to be clear I’m talking lower control arm bushings). I wanted to do them but couldn’t get them out. Someone more experienced than me put a pry bar on them and tried to wiggle them around, he said skip it they are still good. So I did everything else. Truck takes an alignment perfectly and drives like it was new. Just throwing that out there.
chadzeilenga
Active member
Ok, I haven’t checked them yet, but I am feeling some rattle under my feet when I hit bumps so I figured it was the lower rears
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'round n' back again
Explorer
on the gen 1 the only bushings that need changing will be ur trailing arm bushings at the body.
most likely u will not need to change any other bushings.
I did change bushings, front totally and rears just at the body.
I am so happy with my decision...that I'm going to rip them out this winter.
the Siberian blurb on their website is true they are good enough,since factory parts are no longer available.
, but I hate them.
the y are too stiff, and noisy. they have caused me enough grief that I'm junking the entire set up.
mitsu rubber is very very good. proceed with caution.
most likely u will not need to change any other bushings.
I did change bushings, front totally and rears just at the body.
I am so happy with my decision...that I'm going to rip them out this winter.
the Siberian blurb on their website is true they are good enough,since factory parts are no longer available.
, but I hate them.
the y are too stiff, and noisy. they have caused me enough grief that I'm junking the entire set up.
mitsu rubber is very very good. proceed with caution.
chadzeilenga
Active member
I had not heard that about Siberian. Every post I read the owners were happy with them.
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'round n' back again
Explorer
the siberian is a go-to when you do have badly worn bushings. like the body to trailing arm bushings that are wear parts.
Since factory parts are hard to come by, the only real choice are the Siberians.
My experience with them -like all poly bushings is that they are insufferably squeeky,and this is not easily remedied -especially in my climate that experiences a lot of rain to wash the spray- on lube;
they are not an easy -to-work-with material, and they are very stiff. time will tell if deformation becomes a problem. In my case i began with high energy to refurbish all bushings on a 1990 model, only to find that the factory bushing had held up quite well. i replaced the front upper and lowers,since i had some extra arms in the parts pile that allowed me to do this in advance, again i removed bushings from those arms, that were not new but not deformed.
in the end i traded good for poor. the poly bushings offered no increase in any way that was meaningful, with the down side that they are noisy and rough and stiff in that they hold the A arm even more rigidly than rubber.
If this result is the best i can muster, then i'm going to Axis joints and suffer the vibration for the dead on accuracy, the resistance free pivot, rebuild-ability, and grease-ability of the joint. For average use, a set of ADD bilsteins might cap things off nicely as the KYB are far too stiff for street driving, though they miraculously become very responsive on uneven ground. a remarkable off road shock.
these have been my personal experiences, and others may find different result. Most of my Siberian bushings that i bought in a kit are in a plastic bag in the corner.
Overall the front suspension on our old rigs is inferior to what today, is the norm. Mitsubishi gave the world the torsion spring front suspension, but its time is past.
Im working on a fix that is way beyond rational,but if works will be a fine improvement to , and a compatible companion with mitsubishi's very good rear suspension design
Since factory parts are hard to come by, the only real choice are the Siberians.
My experience with them -like all poly bushings is that they are insufferably squeeky,and this is not easily remedied -especially in my climate that experiences a lot of rain to wash the spray- on lube;
they are not an easy -to-work-with material, and they are very stiff. time will tell if deformation becomes a problem. In my case i began with high energy to refurbish all bushings on a 1990 model, only to find that the factory bushing had held up quite well. i replaced the front upper and lowers,since i had some extra arms in the parts pile that allowed me to do this in advance, again i removed bushings from those arms, that were not new but not deformed.
in the end i traded good for poor. the poly bushings offered no increase in any way that was meaningful, with the down side that they are noisy and rough and stiff in that they hold the A arm even more rigidly than rubber.
If this result is the best i can muster, then i'm going to Axis joints and suffer the vibration for the dead on accuracy, the resistance free pivot, rebuild-ability, and grease-ability of the joint. For average use, a set of ADD bilsteins might cap things off nicely as the KYB are far too stiff for street driving, though they miraculously become very responsive on uneven ground. a remarkable off road shock.
these have been my personal experiences, and others may find different result. Most of my Siberian bushings that i bought in a kit are in a plastic bag in the corner.
Overall the front suspension on our old rigs is inferior to what today, is the norm. Mitsubishi gave the world the torsion spring front suspension, but its time is past.
Im working on a fix that is way beyond rational,but if works will be a fine improvement to , and a compatible companion with mitsubishi's very good rear suspension design