The bolt holes are all the same. Just make sure you get all the brackets and hardware from the donor truck.
Suburban/Tahoe(and GMC) pic/build thread
- Thread starter fnjeep314
- Start date
The bolt holes are all the same. Just make sure you get all the brackets and hardware from the donor truck.
Beautiful job !
Do you have more picture about the rear bumper build ?
I need that on my burb
Envoyé de mon SM-G970W en utilisant Tapatalk
supermoto65
Member
Need a little more articulation .... Big Girl needs some Yoga classes!
Last edited:
XJLI
Adventurer
You still have the rear sway bar attached? My Silverado has no problem stuffing 33s, I dont remember if theres a sway bar on it or not. I feel like the coil sprung trucks should flex as good or better.
Not sure about the OPs truck, but my Tahoe still has the rear sway bar connected and on stock wheels. Clears 33s fully stuffed well with some mild mild rubbing on the body side of the wheel well liner. Offset wheels or a wheel spacer would fix that but doesn’t bother me.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Heavyhoe02
New member
Thank you, I will get you lots of pics tomorrow, best tip is buy the $50 bearing hinge from ems offroad make it smooth and easy
60beforetruck
Active member
Heavyhoe02
New member
Attachments
Heavyhoe02
New member
Your welcome
supermoto65
Member
Yeah ... still attached. Making some quick disconnects for front and rear. Also just got a 14 bolt for the rear and a 9.25 for front and hope to get them installed next week.
supermoto65
Member
Nice! Wishing I went SAS from the start.
rayra
Expedition Leader
what on Earth is stuffed in the back of that Tahoe, that's a lot of weight to do that.Not sure about the OPs truck, but my Tahoe still has the rear sway bar connected and on stock wheels. Clears 33s fully stuffed well with some mild mild rubbing on the body side of the wheel well liner. Offset wheels or a wheel spacer would fix that but doesn’t bother me.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The rear sway bar is only a limiter at max extension (as is the central brake line). The center of the bar comes to within 3/16" or so of the stock rear diff cover.
Likewise keep an eye on the stock track / panard bar, been some anecdotes of their cracking or a lot of rough road / off-roading use. Some longer end links would help in that regard.
I just had all that stuff apart a couple days ago on my Sub, swapping in some new rear coils. Took the opportunity to dismantle everything and thoroughly lube every bushing and flange. Didn't really take a lot of pics this time, it's the third time I've messed with the springs in ~4yrs. Pics in my 'hey vortec guys'/ GMT800 maintenance thread
what on Earth is stuffed in the back of that Tahoe, that's a lot of weight to do that.
Nothing. I had it on blocks in the front.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
CrazyDrei
Space Monkey
Flash23,
Your mechanic is correct, the front row bolt pattern is the same for GMT800 and GMT900 trucks. So you can intercahnge the buckets, center consoles, jump seats between all 2000-1013 Suburbans.
I put a jump seat in my 2011 Sub and the bolt pattern on it is identical to the center console of my 2000 Sub. I't not a difficult job, just takes a little patience getting the seats out and new ones in. If you pull the buckets out and put the bench in, it will bolt right up. If you don't want to pull the buckets out, you can get the center console out and put a jumpseat in., that way you have a bench and giant arm rest.
Good luck.