Sprinter 4WD Conversion Idea, GMT-800 IFS.
- Thread starter luthj
- Start date
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Updating the model with some better trans measurements. The pinion angle needed to come down about 7 degrees. The bell is a bit bigger than I expected, so the case flange on the diff looks like possible interference with the bell. I do have some leeway to move the diff over, maybe up to 1/2", but its already a tight fit to tighten the rear mount bolt. I need to get some more accurate measurements of the trans position in the engine compartment.
I got the fill hoses attached.
You can see the fuel tank clearance here.
I got the fill hoses attached.
You can see the fuel tank clearance here.
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Len.Barron
Observer
it all starts getting tight when you repopulate it...if I hadn't done the body lift on mine I don't know HTF I would have made it all fit... there's some trimming that can be done on those diff's to open up some room, little here, little there and you'll squeak it in..
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Every time I visit this thread I have two thoughts.
1) Thanks for sharing
2) Wish you were putting a TTB in a Pre-92 Ford
1) Thanks for sharing
2) Wish you were putting a TTB in a Pre-92 Ford
How about TTB into a 79 Bronco
Starts at the end of page 4.
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Seen it. I meant a pre-92 van. Since ya know, this is a van forum.?♂️
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Nothing personal, but I have zero interest is driving a 90s E series. I like simple, to a point. But things like air bags, and ABS matter, as does comfort. Feel encouraged to build one for yourself. 
I would enjoy following along.
Got a package.
No major changes to the model. The spring was 0.15" larger than expected. With the top mount plate removed, the shock is actually 0.4" shorter than the Fox specs say. I can re-use the top Heim spacers with a 1/2" bolt. The bottom is standard 5/8. I will need to order a set of spacers, as the GM uses a different stud with flats and 2 bolts to attach.
I would enjoy following along.Got a package.
No major changes to the model. The spring was 0.15" larger than expected. With the top mount plate removed, the shock is actually 0.4" shorter than the Fox specs say. I can re-use the top Heim spacers with a 1/2" bolt. The bottom is standard 5/8. I will need to order a set of spacers, as the GM uses a different stud with flats and 2 bolts to attach.
Len.Barron
Observer
Fox builds nice stuff...it's so nice to open up a box and look at quality components..
shade
Well-known member
Glad you went with the 2.5s. Hose them down with a rust inhibitor fairly often or they'll crud up quickly.
Mwilliamshs
Explorer
Not to clog this excellent thread but everything got airbags by 1994, Econolines included and RABS was in them by 1992, all 4 wheels got it by...1996, I think, if that's wrong it's close and the integrated ABS, traction control, and stabilty control system on Fords is darn good.
Moving on...
Shocks look good and I'm happy to hear your model didn't need more work.
I can second the WD40 (or whatever juice you squeeze) bath recommendation. I coated my adjusters and all the threads in antisieze then coated them in...hairspray...followed by...spray paint. The hairspray helps the paint stick to the grease and the paint kept it from washing off or caking with dust. A shot from the pressure washer got them spotlessly back to new again easily when adjustments were needed and everything was perfectly preserved. Not everybody's cup of tea but worked for me. When I parted the truck out 6 years and 40k dirt-road/offroad miles later the shocks looked new.
Moving on...
Shocks look good and I'm happy to hear your model didn't need more work.
I can second the WD40 (or whatever juice you squeeze) bath recommendation. I coated my adjusters and all the threads in antisieze then coated them in...hairspray...followed by...spray paint. The hairspray helps the paint stick to the grease and the paint kept it from washing off or caking with dust. A shot from the pressure washer got them spotlessly back to new again easily when adjustments were needed and everything was perfectly preserved. Not everybody's cup of tea but worked for me. When I parted the truck out 6 years and 40k dirt-road/offroad miles later the shocks looked new.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
Yeah, I am not sure what approach I want to take for protection purposes. I was thinking about sewing up some lycra covers, and just pulling them over the springs. With a few velcro loops they would stay put pretty well, and keep crap off the shocks directly. I could also go the body wax route, as that stuff comes off with a hot water wash usually.
I plan on getting the trans support member made this weekend. I need to connect the fuel return line at the tank, lengthen the tank harness, and find a driveshaft. Looking at the online catalogs, there are some Ford and GM trucks with driveshafts in roughly the right lengths. Not many use the 1350 size, but for a 25$ shaft. I would be okay using 1410 to 1350 conversion UJs, especially for the testing phase. My initial measurements put the shaft at about 76" center-center on the UJs.
I have a piece of 2x4" steel tubing on the shop floor. Should make a good trans support. I plan to notch the joints partially, bend to fit, and weld it up. The studs on the wrangler rubber/mount are only about 1.5"long, so I will need to counterbore the bottom side to fit a socket/nut. I selected ~0.1" tubing, so it should be plenty strong even with the holes. I am not going to worry too much about the trans vertical position, as I can easily add/remove spacers to the mount or at the frame rails to adjust the height. The mount is shifted to the drivers side, which will make centering it a bit more difficult. Should go together quickly, assuming I don't fubar it up!
Here is a rear view of the general layout.
I think I have decided to drop the subframe another 3/8". That will get me clearance at the bell/diff. It may require some longer bolts/spacers at the UCA mounts, as they will shift due to geometry limitations with the anti dive angle.
I plan on getting the trans support member made this weekend. I need to connect the fuel return line at the tank, lengthen the tank harness, and find a driveshaft. Looking at the online catalogs, there are some Ford and GM trucks with driveshafts in roughly the right lengths. Not many use the 1350 size, but for a 25$ shaft. I would be okay using 1410 to 1350 conversion UJs, especially for the testing phase. My initial measurements put the shaft at about 76" center-center on the UJs.
I have a piece of 2x4" steel tubing on the shop floor. Should make a good trans support. I plan to notch the joints partially, bend to fit, and weld it up. The studs on the wrangler rubber/mount are only about 1.5"long, so I will need to counterbore the bottom side to fit a socket/nut. I selected ~0.1" tubing, so it should be plenty strong even with the holes. I am not going to worry too much about the trans vertical position, as I can easily add/remove spacers to the mount or at the frame rails to adjust the height. The mount is shifted to the drivers side, which will make centering it a bit more difficult. Should go together quickly, assuming I don't fubar it up!
Here is a rear view of the general layout.
I think I have decided to drop the subframe another 3/8". That will get me clearance at the bell/diff. It may require some longer bolts/spacers at the UCA mounts, as they will shift due to geometry limitations with the anti dive angle.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
I was putting all the spare trans parts together to reduce the storage space. I discovered I have one extra clutch stack... ?
Not sure how it happened, but There are no B3 discs in the trans. So it has to come back down, and apart. Really pissed for not noticing. Honestly I don't know when I will have the motivation to do all that over
Not sure how it happened, but There are no B3 discs in the trans. So it has to come back down, and apart. Really pissed for not noticing. Honestly I don't know when I will have the motivation to do all that over