Solar panel under performing.

RCP

Member
I've got an outdoors rv 23kts travel trailer that came with a 170 watt solar panel controlled by a Zamp 30 amp solar controller. According to their site it should produce 9.4 amps but I'm only seeing about 3. Full mid day sun no shadows on the trailer. Would this be a bad panel? Controller reading incorrect? Or should I look at expanding by adding a few more panels.

Link to the panel on the roof. https://www.zampsolar.com/170watt#:...text=170-Watt Power Output,Generates 9.4 amps
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Get a wattmeter that counts Ah in and out if you don't have a proper BM, or your SC does not already do this.

Assuming 12V, draw down your House bank to say 50%, or at least by say 80Ah.

If not too far from the equator, you should get at least 40Ah into your bank on an ideal day no shading, maybe even 60Ah or more if the panels are cleaned or can be tilted.

Hot weather will reduce output, very cold will increase it.
 

RCP

Member
What state of charge is your battery at when you are seeing only 3 amps?

Shows changing, but the controller never seems to list the battery as full even if it's been charging for a week and it being used at all.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
sounds like the battery might be done for, whats its resting voltage after a few hours disconnected from charge/load?
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Back to the point IdaSHO was alluding to. If the battery is near full and your controller is in float, it isn't going to pass anything near the rating of your panel. There's nowhere for the juice to go. Consider the panel rating a max potential (no electrical pun intended).
 

jonyjoe101

Adventurer
I would say maybe 8 amps at most out of that 170 watt panel and a pwm controller, if it averages 7 amps that would be good. I used to use a 240 watt 36 volt panel and pwm controller and it maxed out at about 6.5 amps. I think they just wrote what the panel is capable of producing in the best conditions. If the panel is a 36 volt panel an mppt controller might actually get you 9 amps.

But if you got a full battery you will see 3 amps or less. Something to look at is voltage drop, check the voltage at your battery terminals and bounce that with what is on the pwm controller lcd screen. If the controller is reading 14.4 volts but your battery is only reading 13.8 volts that means you got voltage drop. That means the controller thinks the battery is full and is going into float too soon. The only way to fix that situation is to raise the bulk setting on the controller until the battery terminals actually reach 14.4 volts. Undercharging your battery will eventually cause it to lose capacity.

Example on my system that has voltage drop, I have to set the bulk setting to 15.5 volts to fully charge my lifepo4 battery (max charge 14.6 volts) if I set the bulk setting to 14.6 volts it only charges at about 4 amps, at 15.5 volts I get the full 12 amps the 240 watt panel can put out. I learned about voltage drop when charging lithium, with lithium you don't have to guess if the battery is full, when my lithium batteries weren't getting fully charged, I found the voltage drop was causing the controller to go to float too soon. With lead acid I always thought my batteries were full and later realized I was undercharging my batteries for years.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
Your solar charger should be near the battery, not near the solar panel.. if you got one attached to the panel take it off and wire it up next to the battery.. you'll have less losses if you run any length of cable on the high voltage (solar panel) side.

If you put your solar charger near the battery, it can compensate for temps and voltage drop will be negligible.. upping the voltage is risky as the voltage drop is variable w/load.
 

Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
Choosing a controller with a voltage sensing wire to the battery is preferable to one that measures remotely.
Also, having low voltage drop between the controller and the battery is vital, as is temperature compensation, measured at the battery.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 

hour

Observer
zamp on my camper is worthless. even pumping 5 amps through it results in crazy high voltage readings. AKA victron mppt reads 14.3v @ 5 amps charge current through zamp, but reads 13.5v if connect charger to the battery and charge at 5 amps. Maybe part of your problem.
 

Red90

Adventurer
Lots of random advice here. The problem is you have provided no details. You need to provide everything you can.

Model of panel. Voltage and amp specs.

Model of controller.

Wire size and length from panel to controller and controller to battery.

Voltage at controller in and out and at battery when this is happening.

Angle of panel to sun.
 

RJ Howell

Active member
It's been asked twice and I'll ask again. At what SOC are you when you see the low numbers? Your battery (or bank) will only take what the controller supplies at certain SOC. You may be fine, but can't tell until we know your current SOC.
 

broncobowsher

Adventurer
And I'll make it a 4th request. How charged are the batteries? If they are charged or nearly charged the amperage going into them will be very low. When they are full they are full, you can't keep shoving more energy into them.

Why are they taking 3A now? it could be your battery is failing. The charger is trying to reach an unreachable voltage. Is the battery topped up with water (providing it is the standard flooded battery that you have to keep full)?
 

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