Solar Panel Setup W/ IBS Dual Battery Syatem

jah310

Adventurer
I want to install a solar set up to supplement my ibs dual battery set up which is primarily used to power my 50qt ARB fridge. My plan for now is to start with one 60watt panel and hook it up to a Morningstar Sunsaver SS-10. See websites below.

I have a few questions:

Would it be okay to install the controller under the hood? I would mount it high in the engine bay but it won't be completely out of the elements. (Moister and dust). It would real close to the second battery.

Anybody have experience with a solar set up and an IBS dual battery system? I'm running a stock 2010 Tacoma battery along with an optima blue top. Any issue is I should be aware of?

Also I've read a lot about the MC4 cables, which look cool, but do I have to use them? I'd prefer to find a plug ( any suggestions?) or something that would make it easy to plug in and out for when I'm not using the panel(s).

Finally how would I wire in a second panel if I decided I wanted another 60 watt panel. Not sure how the wiring diagram would look like...

Any help,would be much appreciated.

Thanks and happy holidays!


http://www.solarblvd.com/Solar-Pane...60-Watt-12-Volt-Solar-Panel/product_info.html

http://www.solarblvd.com/Charge-Con...,-12V-Pwm-Charge-Controller/product_info.html

http://www.solarblvd.com/Cables-&-W...nnector-#10-AWG-Male/Female/product_info.html
 

haven

Expedition Leader
This looks remarkably like an ad for Solar Boulevard. We'll let it slide because you've been a long time member of ExPo. Contact me if you want information about becoming a forum sponsor.

Chip Haven
moderator
 

4RunAmok

Explorer
Not sure about the controller, but it mentions Tropicalization-Epoxy on the page, not sure what that means or if it pertains to weather proofing.

As for adding a second panel, you would wire it right into the controller with the first panel, right on top of the same posts.

You might want to consider shorter cables, and actually run a measurement from your panel mounting point to where the cables would end. I can run a wire from the front bumper of a Tahoe all the way into the rear storage area using 22 feet of wire using all of the contours under the kick and sill panels.

I've installed dual solar panels on utility trailers using a solar charge controller numerous times, it's not hard to do, just follow the installation instructions that come with your controller. Me, I would not mount it under the hood, there is no technical advantage to having it close to the battery, just keep the wire size on the larger size, 10g is perfect.
 

susswein

Observer
second panel

If you decide to add a second panel you'll just need to wire it in parallel with the first panel. Based on my experience, a 60 watt panel will supply on average just about half the amount of power you'll need to run the fridge (during sunny weather). Panels are getting so cheap nowadays that you might as well install them both now. You should be able to find panels for under $1/watt + shipping, and shipping on 120 watts of panels is only going to be a few dollars more than shipping on 60 watts of panel. Definitely go with a controller that's got enough capacity to add an additional panel in the future.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
Adding an additional panel using MC4 cables will be plug and play. What is there not to like about MC4 connectors?

I have been using an solar controller under my hood in AZ for several years with no problems.
 

4x4junkie

Explorer
Me, I would not mount it under the hood, there is no technical advantage to having it close to the battery, just keep the wire size on the larger size, 10g is perfect.

Many of the better controllers (not familiar with the SS-10) have a temperature compensation circuit built into them for better or more thorough charging of the battery in cold temps. Unless the controller has a set of terminals for an external temperature sensor, it probably would be best to place the controller right near the battery it's charging, otherwise there's some possibility the battery may not be charged properly.

Edit:
Looked at the link, the SS-10 no doubt is temp-compensated. Doesn't say or show if an external sensor is available though.
 
Last edited:

jah310

Adventurer
Thanks for the feedback...awesome.

I think the only reason I'd put the controller in the engine bay is because I have room there and it would be easy in terms of wiring. Anybody have suggestions of where else to put it in a double cab 2010 Tacoma?

If i went with two panels would there be a way of wiring them so I only would have to run one long wire from the controller to the panels instead of two (one wire for each panel)?

Thanks
 

LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
Thanks for the feedback...awesome.

I think the only reason I'd put the controller in the engine bay is because I have room there and it would be easy in terms of wiring. Anybody have suggestions of where else to put it in a double cab 2010 Tacoma?

If i went with two panels would there be a way of wiring them so I only would have to run one long wire from the controller to the panels instead of two (one wire for each panel)?

Thanks

Yes using MC4 cables
 

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:sombrero: I've gotta 12vdc laptop charger (amazon) and when I use my trailer battery/w solar panel hooked up, I use a the 12vdc pwrplug controlled by the 7amp controller and it operates just like the jeep 12vdc system-while underway

If the engine ain't running, the sun is shining-no problemo

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO
 

jonharis

...................
Subscribed. I have the IBS DBS with a DHP Group 31 as primary and 34M as aux. I am starting to look at adding solar and look forward to seeing your complete solution.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Many of the better controllers (not familiar with the SS-10) have a temperature compensation circuit built into them for better or more thorough charging of the battery in cold temps. Unless the controller has a set of terminals for an external temperature sensor, it probably would be best to place the controller right near the battery it's charging, otherwise there's some possibility the battery may not be charged properly.

Edit:
Looked at the link, the SS-10 no doubt is temp-compensated. Doesn't say or show if an external sensor is available though.

This.

The SS-10 does have built-in temp compensation, but no provision for an external temp sensor. So it's going to read "ambient" temp. Which means, it should be mounted right next to the battery for best results.

But, it also says right on it, "Indoor Use Only". It's got a removable faceplate which exposes electronic stuff, and it's not supposed to be exposed to the elements. Putting it in a waterproof box is an option, but it's also got a heatsink, so it'll heat up the inside of the box, and throw the temp compensation off.

I'd say put it somewhere safe and dry, and don't worry about the temp compensation.


Cutting off the MC-4s can void the warranty on most PVs. I'd leave them. Common practice is to buy an MC-4 "extension" (male one end, female the other) and cut it in half. Connect the halves to the PV MC-4s and you've got bare wire on the other end to work with.

Paralleling is no problem using MC-4 "Y" cables.
 

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