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Snorkel Install?

78Bronco

Explorer
So I ordered and rec'd a 3" Snorkel Head off of ebay. It's a cheap unit and will do just fine for me. Cheaper the better right now.

So I'm going to take a saw to my absolutely virgin sheet metal and was wondering what I should coat the exposed metal with after I make the hole. I live in BC, Canada and during the winter they use salt on the roads. This crap rots your exposed metal like a nail in coke.





So I was thinking of masking around the hole that I'm going to cut thru the fender and spray it with spray paint. Any other ideas? I'm going to look for some of that rubber strip that you can cap the sheet metal edge with and silicone it on just to be double sure it's not getting salted.

I'm going to use 3" ABS pipe and spray it with some flat textured paint to make it look less inexpensive and match the texture of the snorkel head. The top of the snorkel will be mounted close to flush with the roof line...i think?!

Any other advice?

Thanks,

Matthew
 

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FlatlinesUp

Adventurer
I'd use a good self etching primer and get some body color matching paint from a reputable auto paint shop.

Very cool looking ride you have there... love the old schoolish stripe
 

TangoBlue

American Adventurist
For the metal edge of the hole, can you find a 3-inch size rubber grommet vice the vinyl door edge material? That might offer a little better protection and symmetry.
 

GrassCat

Adventurer
Before you cut be aware of what behind the fender. Here's my 1998 3.5L Montero. This Safari snorkel normally goes on a later model, but I pick it up for $100 so I made it work.


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78Bronco

Explorer
Grasscat thanks for the pictures, gave me an idea of the proper install. I was going to run it down the fender to the front along the outside but I have now seen the light.:victory:

I need to find some 3" aluminum tubing for cheap.:coffee:
 

chasespeed

Explorer
You mean for the outside? Or inside the fender?

Inside the fender, I would personally, just use PVC, it will seal much easier, and faster, and be cheaper.....

For the outside...... hmmm... Stainless might be a little easier to find... namely, at a high end exhaust shop....(either T309 or T409)



Chase
 

78Bronco

Explorer
I was looking at PVC and ABS but wanted to avoid using "pipe" dimension materials because then I am limited to pipe size connectors. Using "tube" dimensioned materials permits the use of silicone elbows that can be bought for turbo plumbing. Stainless would be nice but it would be shiny and attract metal theives. Aluminum tube can be anodized black so it appears plastic and protect it from oxidizing.

I might just go with exhaust tubing and have it powder coated.
 

78Bronco

Explorer
Picked up 6ft of 3"OD x 0.13" wall 6061 Alum tubing for $36. Now I just need to order some 3" 6061 mandrel bends, 3" silicone connectors and stainless clamps. I was hoping to be under $100 but I'm thinking it's going to be closer to $200 after TIG & anodizing.

Is this going to give me a little more HP on the highway with the ram effect?:safari-rig:
 

Lancer

Observer
Probably not much(if any) more hp as such as ram effect is negligible. Depending on the stock air intake configuration, it will probably breathe more easily, and the air coming in is likely to be cooler (and so denser) so you might get an improvement that way. Should also cut right down on dust/crud in the airbox as well.
 

Rusty-Ford

Observer
you can use some rubber gas line and split it in half to cover the sharp edge of metal once you cut the fender. Since you live in such a salty area.. i would paint the edge just a little too just to be safe.

I did a DIY snorkel on my ford explorer using pvc a donaldson ram head like yours and a flexible rv sewage hose for inside the fender. Just make sure you seal all the areas that water can get in with silicone caulk!

And take lots of pictures!
 

Eric S.

Adventurer
Don't use silicone. It actually absorbs water, not preventing rust on the bare metal. If you go with a sealant find a rubber based one.
 

78Bronco

Explorer
I ordered some cheapish 3" ID silicone connectors and reducer to connect to the air box. Working on sourcing 3" mandrel 6061 mandrel bends to fab up the pipes. By using the turbo silicone connections and clamps there should be no way for water to enter lower down. The main purpose is to move the intake out of the front fender where it's close to contaminents. Not planning on crossing deep water just yet.

Pictures will be posted once I get started:)
 
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PajEvo

JDM Journeys
I've got some work done but nothing significant. Been too busy looking for a job, working my small business and renovating the condo so I can sell it.
Well, here's a few more pics for you, with your shaped fenders (Michael's truck has the fancy schmancy genII.5 bulged fender...no, I'm not jealous. Am I? )





HTH,

Phil
 
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