Greensleeves
Member
Has anyone beefed up their scout rear receiver hitch ? id like to mount a motorcycle on the back (approx 300 lbs)
Hi all, after recently assembling my trailer it's ready to road test albeit I can't figure out how to adjust the trailer's camber and toe. I'm certain I've located the adjustment bolts on the outside and inside of the trailer arms, but I don't see measured change in the tire when adjusting the bolt. So far I've only tried the camber on the left side. Must the bolts be turned a specific direction (clockwise)? Should the nuts first be removed before adjusting the bolt? Should change be seen with slight movement of the bolt? Should there be a spot weld between the bolt and disc? Any advice on the topics is appreciated.Absolutely.
The two outside adjustment on each torque arm are the camber adjustment. If you have a look at them, you can see that it will move the arm up and down due to stops welded on the top and bottom of the off camber disc. That adjustment will pivot the outside of the arm ( axle) up and down, which essentially controls the squat ( camber) of the axle.
The two inside adjustments does the same, but as the stops are welded front and rear will now pivot the arm ( or axle) front or rear, which then controls the toe ( pointing inward or outwards)
As you adjust them, they do affect each other a tiny bit, due to bushing wobble and such, so just check each other prior to tightening and after tightening of the nuts.
The weld is normal. You can just loose the nut and as you turn the bolt the off center washer will force movement up/down/left/right of the center part of the bolt. You might not be able to see much until you wiggle the trailer a bit. I found that as you change the camber if the trailer was squatting you need to unload the suspension to get it to relax. I had a bit less than 2 deg camber that I could not get out. A local truck alignment shop said that was miniscule. I did use lasers and levels when I aligned mine.Hi all, after recently assembling my trailer it's ready to road test albeit I can't figure out how to adjust the trailer's camber and toe. I'm certain I've located the adjustment bolts on the outside and inside of the trailer arms, but I don't see measured change in the tire when adjusting the bolt. So far I've only tried the camber on the left side. Must the bolts be turned a specific direction (clockwise)? Should the nuts first be removed before adjusting the bolt? Should change be seen with slight movement of the bolt? Should there be a spot weld between the bolt and disc? Any advice on the topics is appreciated.
I thought about going that route as it would save quite a bit of wire with all the lights I had on mine throughout each compartment and the outside. In the end I decided not to. For no other reason that at each terminating point, I would have to drill and clean paint off, which in the end would take more time than just run two wires. Nothing wrong in either way.For the folks that have wired their trailers, what did you use for common ground? Can I just use the body of the trailer?
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The rear hitch point on my scout has "no more than 200lb" label. Not sure whether that makes towing anything behind it ok, but just a data point.Newbie here and getting ready to take ownership of our first Smittybilt Scout. This is kind of a crazy question but checking to see if anyone has towed anything behind their trailer. We would like to haul our drift boat (overall weight of drift/boat trailer and tongue weight is minimal) behind the Scout. Of course we would need to run a better support from the front to rear but I’m nervous about potential load on suspension. Looking forward to hearing if anyone has done something similar or also please let me know if this sounds just plain ridiculous. Can’t wait to be exploring with our new trailer and getting our custom build started.
Do you have a fuse box installed somewhere? In the tongue box I assume?I thought about going that route as it would save quite a bit of wire with all the lights I had on mine throughout each compartment and the outside. In the end I decided not to. For no other reason that at each terminating point, I would have to drill and clean paint off, which in the end would take more time than just run two wires. Nothing wrong in either way.
I used the chassis as the ground on mine. I have a fuse box installed for everything I'm runningDo you have a fuse box installed somewhere? In the tongue box I assume?
Love that rear bumper setup. I need to do that too. I'm still working on my design for it.I have been working on one for the last year. It is the new model. The fit and parts were better than expected. Just been out fitting with electrical for fridge and solar. It is heavy and rugged. The 270 awing is now on it. I have some other photos if you are interested. Have not taken it our for a full shake down yet. Had plans to go to Moab in March.. and then things changed for everyone. I fabricated the rear bumper and swing. Wanted to get the spare to the back and have some fuel options.
Yeah..... the power distribution panel came with fused circuits.Do you have a fuse box installed somewhere? In the tongue box I assume?
My engel mu40 did not really get even warm when in there.... but have you considered the affect of covering half of the intake of your unit.Finally managed to fit my fridge into the genny compartment. Required some surgery to the tray. Then I found out that I forgot to account for the bolts and riveted the tray to the slide. We’ll find out how well it works in a week or so. Next step, wire it properly.
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