Smittybilt Scout Trailer Reviews?

ebrabaek

Adventurer
So after reading this forum completely twice, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a scout trailer. After several weeks of fighting with shipping, I got the trailer in and built. Now it’s time to start modifying the trailer.

My issue is I’m no electrician and trying to figure out running electric. Right now I do not plan on putting a solar panel. I’ve tried to follow some of the previous post, however I’m making sure I have the correct components.

I picked up the noco genius gen 1, fuse block, master throw switch, lights and water pump for shower. If I plug in for shore power/generator am I going to need a relay to switch from battery power?


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Hi there, and welcome to the dark side... :)
You will not need a relay. Just need to figure out how to get the 115vac wire through the box. I bought a pass through plug. You drill a round hole in the box, and install the plug which has a cap on it from the outside. Then you plug the noco 115 vac in to the plug you just installed. Then just hook up the positive and negative leads from the noco to your battery, and your rocking.
This thing maintains the battery all by itself.
 

Csteele

New member
Hi there, and welcome to the dark side... :)
You will not need a relay. Just need to figure out how to get the 115vac wire through the box. I bought a pass through plug. You drill a round hole in the box, and install the plug which has a cap on it from the outside. Then you plug the noco 115 vac in to the plug you just installed. Then just hook up the positive and negative leads from the noco to your battery, and your rocking.
This thing maintains the battery all by itself.
I appreciate it! Well watching your modifications throughout this forum has brought me to the dark side. Hopefully have electrical and water heater completed next week and start testing it out.


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Crashphil

New member
So a follow up is deserved on my comment that the paint stinks. I had mentioned in an earlier post that my trailer had pretty poor paint. I decided I'd redo most of my Scout in a bed liner to remedy this, Raptor Coat to be specific. When I began to prep the Scout for the Raptor coat, I started with the fender that I first noticed the bad paint, but as I began to prep other areas, I found the paint to be much better, and quite adequate, so basically I had one fender that had bad powder coat. Unfortunately, I had already started down the path of re-coating the trailer, and there was no turning back. It was quite a bit of work, preparation is everything, but I love how it turned out! FYI, I used windshield black polyurethane to fill all the seems, like at the fender/wall joints. Also, since I don't need a spare, having the same wheels on both Jeep and Scout, I am thinking about moving the front box back against the main body to reduce tongue weight.View attachment 443890View attachment 443891View attachment 443894View attachment 443895View attachment 443891View attachment 443894View attachment 443895View attachment 443896View attachment 443896
Quick question, i see you changed from 2inch receiver to what appears to be a max coupler . I also noticed you are using the “long” version of the max coupler , how does it tow with the longer adapter? what is the actual length of it or do you have a link to find it ?
thanks
 

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jojackc

Member
Quick question, i see you changed from 2inch receiver to what appears to be a max coupler . I also noticed you are using the “long” version of the max coupler , how does it tow with the longer adapter? what is the actual length of it or do you have a link to find it ?
thanks
I did the same thing. I feel like it makes backing the trailer in a bit easier then it was. But its not a huge difference. The longer version is 18 inches and the original is 6 so you only gain a foot. But for only $15 more a figured what the hell. Here is a link to their website. you will have to scroll down to find the longer version. https://www.cuoffroad.com/product-lines/max-coupler-line/
 

Flatland_XJ

New member
So after reading this forum completely twice, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a scout trailer. After several weeks of fighting with shipping, I got the trailer in and built. Now it’s time to start modifying the trailer.

My issue is I’m no electrician and trying to figure out running electric. Right now I do not plan on putting a solar panel. I’ve tried to follow some of the previous post, however I’m making sure I have the correct components.

I picked up the noco genius gen 1, fuse block, master throw switch, lights and water pump for shower. If I plug in for shore power/generator am I going to need a relay to switch from battery power?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Everything will run 12vdc. When you hook up to shore power it will be through the Noco Genius. It will replace what you are using as you are using it. Any generator or shore power will be 120vac
 

Pau Hana

New member
Originally I wanted to build the whole thing from parts on the crate, but the metal was simply too thin walled to do the job. I did make it a point to use as much as I could though... :) :)

Using pieces of the 2x2 from the crate and 1/8" flat iron bar, I made the two brackets to attach the new bumper to the existing right and left frame. I did realize that this would null the area needed for the aft jacks, but I never liked that interface that much anyway, and decided to cross that bridge at a later stage.
Using the hardware from the crate.
View attachment 424845
View attachment 424846
View attachment 424847
View attachment 424848

I then sat the pivot down in the bumper and the tire carrier in place to begin focus on that interface. Ohhhh what fun this was going to be, but it was beginning to look cool....
View attachment 424849
Three questions for you ebrabaek.
1. How long did the bumper end up being? I have a 66" piece of 3"x3" square tubing and am thinking I have more that enough stock to work with.
2. I plan to "notch" the 3" tube to accommodate the receiver extension. This will remove three sides of the tubing while leaving one side that will "rest" on top of the receiver extension. Of course a weld will go all around my cuts for a solid attachment of the bumper to the receiver extension. Did you cut the square tube into two equal pieces and then weld each on the either side of the receiver?
3. How much flat bar (thickness) did you have to add to get the latch to the correct height to match the arm?
Thanks.
 

ebrabaek

Adventurer
Three questions for you ebrabaek.
1. How long did the bumper end up being? I have a 66" piece of 3"x3" square tubing and am thinking I have more that enough stock to work with.
2. I plan to "notch" the 3" tube to accommodate the receiver extension. This will remove three sides of the tubing while leaving one side that will "rest" on top of the receiver extension. Of course a weld will go all around my cuts for a solid attachment of the bumper to the receiver extension. Did you cut the square tube into two equal pieces and then weld each on the either side of the receiver?
3. How much flat bar (thickness) did you have to add to get the latch to the correct height to match the arm?
Thanks.
All great questions.
Lemme have a look and measure.
I will be busy tomorrow and the trailer is in the hanger.
I thought I put dimentions along the pictures but perhaps I did not.
I will try to measure this as early as saturday.
 

Pau Hana

New member
All great questions.
Lemme have a look and measure.
I will be busy tomorrow and the trailer is in the hanger.
I thought I put dimentions along the pictures but perhaps I did not.
I will try to measure this as early as saturday.
Thank you. No rush at all. Just curious, I read your posts over again and didn't see anything specific except for the minimum 55" center measurement for the pivot to latch. but I have been known to miss things. I could fab this up no problem, I'm most likely overthinking it. But I also really like how the proportions look on your project. (y)
 

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ebrabaek

Adventurer
Thank you. No rush at all. Just curious, I read your posts over again and didn't see anything specific except for the minimum 55" center measurement for the pivot to latch. but I have been known to miss things. I could fab this up no problem, I'm most likely overthinking it. But I also really like how the proportions look on your project. (y)
No worries at all. I will get them for you tomorrow. :)
 

KPT4R

New member
New Member here. I just bought the Scout Trailer and have it mostly set up ready roll. Been searching this thread for any info on mounting a Water Tank to the bottom side of the trailer. Has anyone found a good solution for that?

Other plans are to add a hot water heater system and electrical system, no experience with automotive electrical so this is going to get interesting!
 
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